M. Steves RHSO Ultra Nourishing Boost | Reviving Exfoliator


Rosehip oil is the kind of cult ingredient that sticks around in the beauty industry despite the glitzy buzz of newcomers. Having navigated through the press kits, labels and sample vials of many oils, I have realized you cannot dispute the science behind this oil. While most newbie oils are fantastic for their Vitamin E content, Rosehip is one of the very few that actually mimics the action of Vitamin A, which was what all of these retinoid products rely on.

Here’s the proof; in a two-year study, Rosehip oil was applied to 180 patients with surgical, traumatic and burn scars, as well as to a group suffering from premature aging of the skin. The results were remarkable. Continuous application of Rosehip effectively attenuated scars and wrinkles, halted advancement of premature aging, and restored lost skin natural color and tone.

If you’d rather hear the story from a real person, then Mally Steves Chakola (the mind behind the chic organic brand M. Steves) is the woman to hear it from. She’s quite the charmer; an informed entrepreneur (who looks like a former model) who has taken the nutritious benefits all the way to The Today Show. She knows firsthand how Rosehip can help fade scars. Rosehip also reputedly contains extremely high levels of essential fatty acids—more than Argan or Grapeseed oil. Rosehip is also naturally compatible with skin cell structure and provides a gentler and more absorbable source of trans-retinoic acid, while promoting an increase in levels of elastin and collagen.

See, Mally bought a bottle of oil on whim and used it up on a 20-year old scar, which faded dramatically in size and colour within two weeks. It’s this success story that inspired her to launch a line of Rosehip-based products, which are designed to work in sync with each other to promote the quickest cell turnover for glowy skin.

Having been a former Retin-A user (for my cystic acne), I can say Mally's Ultra Nourishing Boost ($64) is a far safer botanical alternative to the harsh dryness that accompanies the prescription-only med and often leaves your skin begging for moisture.  I’ve long complained about the peeling and flakes I get from being on Retin-A and even from the occasional chemical peels I endure, which led me to the fun of using face oils in the first place. But, keep an open mind about this oil.

It’s an intense and concentrated serum; no additives, colours, or even scent to the cold-pressed Rosehip oil, which makes it ideal for sensitive skin types or ones that insist on undergoing the raze of a derm’s hand. The ambery elixir is very light in feel and absorbs on the spot. I actually relied on the likable oil  - which has the agility of feathery serum - after a radiance peel and found my skin drinking it up and leaving not a patch of anything sensitive, red or dry.

Though my peels are few and far in between (I know I ought to give them up, but they do keep the cystic break-outs at bay), I like to keep skin refreshed with the Reviving Exfoliator ($48). I’ve been on a scrub kick lately as I never though to use oil-based ones to help keep skin primed for allowing serums (like the booster) to penetrate deeper. Absent from my recent finds has been a face scrub based in an oil. And, this light, fragrant and satisfying scrub is just the thing to make skin more velvety.

The resurfacer leaves your skin and neck pretty buffed and polished with Microdermabrasion crystals, Walnut Shell powder and fruit enzymes all blended in a base of Jojoba, Avocado and Rosehip. Cast into the jar are Grapefruit and Tangerine oils to bring a modern citrus feel to the scrub.

The wondrously precise formula gives you a good scruff without being too harsh. Want to temper it down? Add a few extra drops of the booster to get a less grainy feel.

Using the oil-based treatments together seems appropriate for Rosehip’s slough n’ slather synergy here. And, while the unsung oil may not have had the good fortune of reveling in some PR buzz usually reserved for more exotic oils, you cannot dispute the science behind it. The proof is in Mally’s improved skin.

Rosehip’s turn under the spotlight has come.

Price: $$$
Scent Classification: Citrus (in the scrub, scent-free in the oil)
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity