My debut oil from Etsy stuns upon delivery! And, that is because my usually ADD self went for an oil without seeing its packaging first, Not that precludes any preset requirements, but it’s a good thing I didn’t see the splendorous bottled featured here, else I would have been stalking the UPS truck like a Long Island Lolita.
Behold the cavernous beauty! Its voluminous shape is sure to impress, though skeptics will ask about the cork stopper, but the decanter-esque bottle offers you a similar experience to that of swirling your wine for a full-bodied effect. Without the pompous attitude. But, with the generous surface area, it’s quite brilliant to not only have the 100% natural essences of Cacao, Cardamom, and Blue Lotus outfitted inside an esthetically pleasing bottle, but also to have the unsullied essentials re-energized with each pour. Which is exactly what Jenn Segale, founder of Garden Apothecary, says to do before using the insuperably elegant oil.
Jenn’s Etsy line of garden-based products have been a staple in the pages of People and Vogue for staying true to the idea of organic cultivation at WildFlower Farms in the sleepy city of Half Moon Bay. Her Anointing Oil ($25) promises to grab your attention when you first open.
The translucency of Blue Lotus is underscored by the languorous vibrancy of Cardamom and the teasing richness of Cacao. The scent smells enchanting as it nicely highlights the sensory pleasure of Cardamom and its bold character. Fans of the spicier blends will appreciate Cardamom’s whispery overtures, but should also know this is a softly sweetened variation. I can imagine this oil to blend extraordinarily well with Vanilla anything, turning any usually candied banal scent into something a bit more inviting.
"The Cardamom notes really balance the Blue Lotus and cacao... makes it so they all don't smell too much like food, more sensual" - Jenn
Jenn's Cardamom is enveloped by Cacao, thanks to her penchant for chocolate. Whereas most obsessions run dry over time, Jenn's choco-bliss inspired a trip to Belize, where she embarked on a botanical journey through the local jungles and ragged caves of the country. It was here where she developed a kinship with a local a cacao farmer, Eladio Pop, who shared with her the intricacies of growing, harvesting and roasting cacao. She's been smitt ever since.
The interesting accords are blended within the sole carrier - Almond oil. According to the "Physicians' Desk Reference for Herbal Medicines," sweet almonds contain up to 77% omega-9 fatty acids and hefty doses of Vitamin E. Although Sweet Almond Oil is said to be a moisturizer, it's really more of an emollient (while helping minimize discolourations) because it softens skin rather than hydrates it.
Nothing is artificial or trite in this oil. Much like the folks behind some of the great pop up shops on Etsy. And, much like Jenn. You’ll appreciate the attention given to each entirely faithful, memorably striking bottle – each blended with the utmost care & thought. You don’t believe my gushy review? Just ask Jenn – she can’t keep the blend in stock.
Price: $$
Scent Classification: Spicy
Viscosity: Moderate viscosity
Dry lips are an annoying inevitability for any gal. And, with just about every corner shop, department store counter, and online blender touting their goops and creams, some of you will appreciate this gem in a tube. The ingredients? Well, it aint’ plural, that’s ‘fo sure. I know, I know. Enough of the street speak. The only thing that promises to quench up the parch is Lanolin.
Lanolin (German, from Latin lāna, "wool", and oleum, "oil") is also called wool wax or wool grease. The medical grade version is what you’re getting here. Lanolin owes its outstanding emollient qualities to the fact that in addition to its semi-occlusive capabilities, it’s also capable of allowing the bi-directional transportation of water. The pro’s have also shown how similar Lanolin is to our very own lipid. Because of the polar nature of its compounds, Lanolin has powerful emulsifying properties. This means that it can bind high amounts of water by forming stable emulsions. On skin, the jelly-like balm is actually distributed into the intercellular space of the outermost skin layer. To prevent this intercellular water from evaporation, Lanolin lipids form a semi-occlusive film on the skin and create a protective barrier.
All that superpower science in this teeny tube? Dr. Lipp’s fantastic balm has shown to reduce roughness on your skin by up to 40% in one hour. And, this without any chemicals, preservatives, fragrances, dyes, or any other chemical offender that you know to annoy. And, nt just for the lips, you can use this balm to heal up shaving nicks or waxing scrapes for those why-did-I-do-this-at-home quick fixes that we all have tried but never admit to.
Enthused chatter aside, I’m a sticky balm type of gal. Well, at least during the day, when I appreciate the honeyed tackiness to last between my presentations. And, this clear gel-like balm does just that. Nicely so when slicked over a fade resistant liner, too. Because of its dense spreadability, you can also bank on the tube lasting longer than a chappy sludge stick.
Lips wear a gilded shine throughout the day. You know…the pretty lips…I know, I know…I keed, I keed.
Price: $$
Scent Classification: None
Texture: Sticky gloss
So, I started thinking about those oceanic scents so rarely seen in an oil, but so popularly seen in shower gels and the likes. To date, one major brand has launched an aquatic body oil, but the unnamed conglomerate refused to share a sample. Meh, is what the kiddies would say to that. Or, whatevs. I just move on. And, to the charming Tipton Charles I did.
I’ve sorted through many an oil, but these two scented variations stand apart from the clutter and at such reasonably fun price points, really ought to be bought as a pair. Tipton Charles – a breezy brand of botanical luxuries – caters largely to the spa market. But, isn’t it nice to know you can reach for the same quality of body care without spending up to those impossible standards set by your fave spa? I think so. And, Tipton Charles does offer several themed collections of scent faves – Lemon Verbena, Lavender, Grapefruit and more. It’s no secret while I appreciate the basics, my skin and senses always yearn for the never-before-tried-and-no-one-else-makes-it. And, Tipton Charles wins it with the Ocean Bath & Massage Body Oil ($20) and Mandarin Guava Bath & Massage Body Oil ($20).
I can hear the cyber rants – do I pair both together? How does the breezy stir of an aquatic scent layer with fruit? Have you lost it?
No, I haven’t. Nor do I suggest you layer these unless a hearty slather in the name of fun is in order. I suggest both because you’ve done Lavender. You’ve done the rose. And, you’ve probably even done some Sandalwood. Both of these charming blends promise to be an unexpected jumble of notes within their own gentle manners.
But, first - the crux of the care. Tipton Charles Body Oils are from a lightweight, easily absorbed blend of Jojoba, Sweet Almond, Sesame and Sunflower carriers. A jubilant blend of fatty acids and skin-loving vitamins (A, D, E). FAccording to the "Physicians' Desk Reference for Herbal Medicines," sweet almonds contain up to 77% Oleic acid, a form of omega-9 fatty acid. Sweet almonds also contain Linoleic and Palmitic acids. Interesting to note that although Sweet Almond oil is said to be a moisturizer, it's really more of an emollient because it softens skin rather than hydrates it. However, Sweet Almond oil also acts as a humectant to help prevent the loss of moisture.
I often find aquatic scents to be a challenge as really, being a novice at fragrances, I find most tend to veer towards to detergent-y types of clean scents. Not Ocean. All of Tipton Charles’ body products are scented with fragrances (that meet with the stringent regulations set forth by the IFRA: International Fragrance Association) that are based in plant extracts. If the breathtaking view of a sea vista can be bottled, Ocean is it.
Sparkling waves of spirited oceanic notes keep within the purity of an aquatic scent. Vivid in its lush opening, there seems to be a pine-ish sort of element that is harmoniously blended in an easygoing fashion. You smell curls of notes as the scent persists longer than most and induces memories of the last time you sat across the salted winds from breaking waves.
Mandarin Guava is your lush complement to the everyday florals. WARNING: a seriously invigorating fruit scent lies ahead. A sweetened mantle of Guava awakens the senses while the freshest sparkle of Mandarin lends the conventional feminine flourish. As a hair oil, I didn’t want to rinse and repeat, I swear. Stunned by it simplicity, I’m tempted to round up the rest of the ancillaries – I mean lord knows my tootsies could use a weekly soak with some candied sea salts. And, the blending fun with linear, extraverted florals (I mixed with a Rose) makes Sunday afternoon slathering all the more fun.
Go on girl, crazy, sexy, cool layering challenges await you...
Price: $
Scent Classification: Aquatic; Fruity
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (2/10)
The Cocoa Bean has been shown to help restore elasticity and stimulate circulation thanks to its natural concentration of caffeine. And, it’s found in Amala Treatment Oil ($186). Amala’s Cocoa hails from an organic farm in Peru, organically cultivated and collected to help maintain skin's optimal hydration level in an oil form.
Mind you – this isn’t a plug some for choco-smelling oil. The extract is blended with mostly Andiroba oil. Say what? Now, that’s a carrier you haven’t likely seen before. Extracted from the compressed seeds of the Amazonian tree carapa, Andiroba primarily functions as anti-inflammatory agent and skin conditioner. Brimming with the usual list of essential fatty acids, Amala’s serum helps even out spotty skin with the superpotent base. Organic Jojoba, Sunflower Seed, Acai Berry, Brazil Nut, and Vitamin E oils bring a fresh lightness to the texture. But, hidden within these basics is Wild Amaranthus Caudatus Seed oil, which has shown to be a proven nutraceutical with high promises for its work on renewing skin.
There’s a special kind of grace with Amala. Perhaps, it’s the subtlety of the scent or the rarity of opting for an unusually distinct carrier over the norm. Whatever it is, Amala gets it to work. All treatments (with 97% of plant ingredients produced by organic agriculture.) are certifed by NaTrue, the European authority for natural and organic cosmetic standards. Cordially in awe of the price tag (yes, I’m sure you wondered if it was a typo – it’s not), the treatment will keep you in limbo. To splurge or not?
As you silently click-click-tap-tap away on Google in search of some falsely promised holy grail serum, I’d say yes, do try. And, that’s because every lady’s skin should have that one, fearlessly heroic serum to use in concert with your mainstay products for skin that is overworked. If it’s not your eye cream, it should be your serum. The juxtaposition of tonality and essentials is just as unique as its carrier oil. The scent starts out with the familiar sweetness of Vanilla interspersed with hints of Lemon Peel and Rose. Forming a raw silky veil on skin, Ylang Ylang helps transition the flow into a something more of that floral informality we all reach for to comfort distressed skin. Delicate and pretty with an appealing cleanness, really. Bergamot? Missed by my nostrils, but perhaps will reach for yours.
I’m rather liking Amala’s branding, which smartly veers away from the highbrow haughtiness seem with so many overpriced serums that offer little by way of any supposed potency. Rather, the gratuitous freshness I can feel and smell in this oil makes it worth the time to discover.
Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Floral
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (2/10)
Masque Royale isn’t a cream per se. But, it is an inexplicable kind of something that matters to the world of huile lovers beyond the basic carrier oils. The treatment is a high-intensity emulsion that battles moisture loss particularly suited for dehydrated or even mature skins in dire need of concentrated repair.
There was a moment not so long ago when the grand house of organic luxury skincare – In Fiore – played its essentials off its carriers with boundless harmony. The two swanky sets of natural elements verge near the edge of madness with their rivaled freshness and immediate potency. And, then came along this mask with its modest roster of organic and wildcrafted ingredients – vegetable wax, Aloe Vera Gel, Safflower/Rosehip/Jojoba Seed/Avocado/Wheat Germ/Rice Bran carriers with Grape Alcohol and In Fiore’s proprietary tincture.
Isn’t it always the darndest thing – that one very element in a formulation that you aren’t privy to makes you just want it all the more?
Not to be cowed by the base above, the audacious blend carries forth with Jasmine Flowers, Calendula, Royal Jelly, Seaweed Extracts, Honey, Grapefruit Seed, Sacred Blue Lily Flower, Rose Absolute & Damascena, Neroli, Honey Suckle, White Peony, Comfrey Leaf, Orange Flower (hydrosol and absolutes of this), White Lotus, Rosemary Leaf, Vetiver Root, and Sage Leaf extracts. Talk about amassing some of serious floral compounds to help restore the density beneath your epidermis.
I say this because not only did I test the treatment on its own over freshly scrubbed skin, but I also used Masque Royal to soothe a hastily peeled face in my usual attempts to lighten my age spots. Masque Royale proves (yet again) how an organic blend of wildcrafted oils is just what the skin appreciates after enduring any one of those tricked out derm treatments. Hungrily, my skin sopped up the mask even when layered twice. And, the morning after? Nary a dry patch in sight. And, likely from the helpful Royal Jelly. Royal Jelly’s powerful properties (a) mixture of proteins, sugars, and nectar) have fascinated people for thousands of years, going back to the time of the ancient Egyptians who used it to keep their skin glowing. It was even used to help preserve the mummies. But, primarily, it contains 10-HDA, a natural fatty acid that may help correct skin barrier dysfunction. Researchers have seen hydration index levels increase by +28.8% and +60.4% after 7 and 21 days with the treatment of 10-HDA (European Journal of Dermatology, 2011 September 22).
And, the scent? The quintessentially delightful Jasmine reigns true to its tradition on In Fiore. Never clean nor predictable, Jasmine and Rose seem invigorating, exciting and original here. Tempered lightly with the sparkle of Orange, the beguiling scent is rendered nearly airy with White Peony and Honeysuckle while the rootier elements stay muted behind. There’s an exhilarating brightness that blooms from an intricate heart when Masque Royale is spread onto the blight of dry skin. Though normal types can actually use it as a lightweight moisturizer day or night.
With complexity and softness, In Fiore does something with its skin care that no other brand does so well. Not one to feel too highbrow and thus, too out of reach, it always manages to bring us some hard-won intellectual discovery from nature in that makes us feel as though the silkened treatment, the diffusive oil, or the genteel balm was made to order just for you.
Nothing is arbitrary at In Fiore. Ever.
Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Floral
Texture: Light creamy moisturizer
“The 60s.”
“Why?”
Far too long to answer. But, it’s suffice to say if you took a sneak peek at my Ipod, my Bollywood 60s playlist would be the best way to summarize my penchant for the cultural realizations, fantastic bouffants, and of course, the perennial cat eye flutter. Liberation and legacies aside, I would have been a screeching Beatles fan, smitten at sight of George’s brooding good lucks. I would have rejected any sense of political correctness and burned baby burned. LSD? Probably not. Maharishi’s theatrical egomania? Definitely not.
So, who would have thought a body oil could ferret out those sensibilities on skin? Not I. Until 1967 ($80) by Jiva Apoha scattered across the skin with its opulent bohemian scent. Rich with Easter influence, the oil is less mod-ish and more free-loving in spirit. Just as music served as the impetus for the vibrancy of emerging countercultures, this oil is akin in intent to today’s hearty herbs and flouncy florals.
A hippie Sandalwood – creamy, almost milkened – plays expertly off Ginger and Patchouli in a way that stuns you upon its opening. The three has a near passionate affinity for each other, seamlessly woven through the beta-carotene enriched Sunflower base. According to Aging Skin Net, exposure to free radicals and sunlight increases the rate at which your skin ages, and it may even cause wrinkles and fine lines to pop up early. The antioxidants found in Sunflower oil, along with daily sunscreen, can help reduce your risk of developing premature signs of aging, which makes this a good choice for using on your exposed décolleté and arms.
Undeniably sensual at its core, 1967 is transcendental in a way. Leading you towards serenity is the delicious undertone of Cinnamon Bark oil, which prevents the scent from veering into spicy territory but rather melding into an indelible warmth. Vetivert – also known as the oil of tranquility in India – is tender in its caress though offers a pleasing blend of rooty exoticism to the blend.
The lasting power is what always amazes me about Jiva Apoha’s oils. More often than not, these radically ambitious oils almost match up to the persistence of a great perfume oil. Wickedly satisfying, I cannot believe this is a Patchouli I actually like. But, that’s what I trust Jiva Apoha to bring me – the sincerity of raw luxury.
Hippie, hippie shake your bottle is what I'm feeling.
Price: $$$
Scent Classification: Oriental Woody
Viscosity: Moderately viscous (5/10)
La Bella Figura Beauty is the first brand to import this next wonder oil and possibly topple Argan’s immense popularity. What makes Barbary Fig so special is how it has nearly four times the Vitamin E concentration found in your common variety Argan oil. But the tiny amount of oil extracted from each cactus fruit makes Barbary Fig oil the most expensive on the market, about a $1,440 a liter. And, so much of it is needed. Eight tons of the Barbary Fig fruit – sometimes known as prickly pear – are needed to produce a liter (quart) of oil used for cosmetics.
The Barbary Fig Renewal Serum ($125) paves the way for those lusting after the next big thing in skincare. Argan 2.0? Perhaps, as you can also source this epidermal virtue from Morocco, too. The serum has Barbary Fig at its core – plump and viscous – and threads Broccoli Seed, Guava Seed, and Milk Thistle Seed oils throughout the carrier. Highly rich in linoleic acid, it’s a swiftly absorbing serum. Day after day, fine lines are appear smoothed out, skin appears more firm, dense and nourished for an exceptional, youthful radiance. It’s one of those oils that can be layered over a barely there night cream for an added boost.
Guava oil is the never before seen surprise in this treatment. Guava is very rich in lycopene, potent antioxidant known for its protective action against cell-damaging free radicals. Guavas are also an excellent source of beta-carotene and vitamins A and C, copper, zinc, selenium and phosphorus, which makes this an excellent organic alternative to retinol.
Blood Orange, Magnolia Blossom, Rose Otto, Frankincense and Melissa Leaf essences round out the effervescent scent. Fresh from atop its wildcrafted notes, the lyrical unison of accords bring a voluptuous form to the flourish, sweetened ever so slightly on the spread. It's the accumulating wisps of Magnolia Blossom that entice from the persistent rhythm of floral essentials.
All of this as a preamble to my word to capture the oil? Hailing from the capital of cool, I’d say it’s a classic in the making. Ok, it was more than one word. But, the oil is more than just that, too.
Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Floral
Viscosity: Slightly viscous (4/10)