Two words that seem to be on everyone’s lips. Egyptian. Magic. And, by everyone, I mean Madonna, and…oh heck, who else really matters after her. It’s a rare balm that moves beyond traditional beauty mentions & makes the gossip rags & the mainstream dailies. In fact, I’m even embarrassed to say that as a beauty writer, I never even gotten around to trying this cult fave balm.

Strangely prescient, the Egyptians have also gotten skin care right. The strikingly svelte women – Cleopatra, Hatshepsut, & Nefertiti – knew about lactic acid as an exfoliant and played with the staining powers of henna colour long…loooooog...before it was fashionable to doll up. Finding the right balm for some never stops being annoying. Some want it fragrance-free. Others want it creamy. A few want one in a tub, not stick. And, someone somewhere might even want it organic and so darn safe that if a baby managed to find it finger-licking good, you wouldn’t have to worry over the next throw-up moment. Egyptian Magic ($24.80) is all this and more.

The ancient knock-off is made from a proprietary mix of Olive oil, Honey, Beeswax, Royal Jelly, Bee Pollen and Propolis in one fortuitous buttery blend, soft & inherent to the ingredient’s DNA. No scent, no chemicals, no fuss, no muss.

Egyptian Magic is undeniably different than other balms in that it’s not stiff, but creamy. Most tend to be thick salves, but here you’ll spread an emulsion like a fine cheese. It’s boon for sensitive skins as nothing is in the tub to irritate. Olive oil brings the fatty acids, Honey brings some antiseptic action, and Beeswax gives it the form. But, blending in Royal Jelly is the novel concept here. "Royal Jelly is an excellent source of nutrients and is gentle to the system," says Steve Schechter, M.D. Royal Jelly contains vitamins A, B-complex (particularly Pantothenic acid) C, D and E. As such, Royal Jelly is included in many dermatological preparations, and in those used for skin refreshing, and skin regeneration or rejuvenation. It is also used in creams or ointments for healing burns and other wounds. Research has even shown how Royal Jelly may help fade discolourations by getting down & deep into melanin synthesis.

Where does it come from? The queen bee is the leader of the bee colony and the only one allowed to reproduce among her outrageously stinging sidekicks. She can be fertilized and lay eggs just a few times during her entire life. Worker bees, the ones that collect nectar from flowers, are able to excrete a creamy, special food from glands on their head. The queen subsists entirely on this food. When eggs turn into larvae, the baby bees also eat this special food, nicknamed Royal Jelly, for 2-3 days. From their vulnerable state, they quickly develop into healthy and large bees.

Bee pollen and Propolis (a resin-like material from the buds of poplar & cone-bearing trees, something the Egyptians used for mummifications) rounds out the inimitable list of ingredients. I say inimitable because many a brands have tried to copy n’ paste the formula…and failed. The balm is awesome for use all over – cuticles, feet, hands, knees, and lashes. Lashes? Yes, lashes. Why use petroleum grade Vaseline to help exaggerate your flutters when you can use this balm atop for a whole lotta good? It was easy enough with a Q-tip, didn’t irritate the contacts, and helped mascara glide even smoother.

Now, that's how to get pharaoh glam.

Price: $$
Scent Classification: None
Texture: Smooth, creamy, blendable

Yuli’s ME Skin Fuel ($92) gives the age-old Argan (and you) a fresh face. Bringing an uninterrupted stream of fatty acid rich moisture is organic Argan. And, flanking the ‘liquid gold’ are Jojoba and Apricot Kernel carriers. But, from here is where the sensory continuity differs from most other Argan-based face elixirs. See, Yüli is one of those discreet brands that enjoys a cult following of fans without resorting to hyper-marketed claims. And, its devoted clientele are its biggest asset.

Take my longtime reader – Sarah – who has been using Skin Fuel for a while now and unwittingly offered up her unbiased testament to the oil’s potency & results. It’s brand evangelists like her that put Yüli in a fantastic position – face oil fans will want what works on real women. And, I say this so that you can believe in Sarah’s honest words alongside the single-mindedness of mine.

Yüli’s Skin Fuel is sort of experimentalism done right. The 12 bioactive, mostly wildcrafted oils, are designed to feed skin of precious nutrients, not just moisture. Take the Black Cumin Oil. Supposedly, the grand old Prophet Muhammad said of it, “Let fall these Black Seeds upon you, these contain cure for all diseases except death.” Black Cumin seeds are extremely fortifying; they are mostly of EFA’s and 21% protein, which help strengthen and maintain cell integrity, heal skin conditions like acne, eczema, & psoriasis. Many active components have been isolated from Black Cumin Oil, including thymoquinone, thymohydroquinone, dithymoquinone, thymol, carvacrol, nigellimine-N-oxide, nigellicine, nigellidine and alpha-hederin. Its reparative oil, various extracts and active components (over 100) have been identified to include immune stimulation, anti-inflammation & antioxidant effects. The exquisitely sensitive roster goes on to include Pomegranate, Red Raspberry, Broccoli See, Indian Fig, Sea Buckthorn, Jojoba-infused Dandelion, Helichrysum oils filtered with Blue Lotus and Jasmine extracts.

Dandelion sap is what makes this treatment a cut above the rest. Dandelion sap (aka Dandelion milk/juice) is useful in treating skin diseases, which are caused due to microbial and fungal infection, as this sap is highly alkaline and have germicidal, insecticidal and fungicidal properties. In other words, acne’s capricious bacteria are killed on spot with pops of nature’s own suppressive sap. Scope out the curative possibilities with this delicious read (coupled with scientific data) on the surprisingly gifted Dandelion.

But, floral the scent is not. In fact, while the oil has a nice dense feel to it making your skin feel truly protected, the scent has somewhat of an exotic bent to it with a near masala-like tinge to the blend. It’s likely the Helichrysum and Black Cumin Seed oil, which are sometimes used in Indian recipes. The Jasmine barely adorns either essential, but is soft & simple at best. Just know the scent’s vibrancy will dissipate after a few minutes.

Skin Fuel isn’t your stereotypical oil, but rather rightly ineffable with its slow tempo of organic essentials and novel blend with a hungry spirit. Don’t believe me? Just ask a true huile connoisseur, Sarah, (below in the comments) why she gave the oil a chance with conviction to reform her skin...

Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Spicy
Viscosity: Slightly viscosity (4/10)

I’m often asked if a toner is needed when using a facial oil. As skin goes through its integral changes at those hallmark decade junctions, some feel the need for a toner isn’t as important as the hero cream or serum. I say that may be so smashingly wrong. Sure, the toners from the 80s may have wreaked of cheap alcohol, which left the sting of witch hazel over newly scrubbed faces. But, today’s tonics are less about stripping the skin and more about prepping skin with moisture from essential oils before & after your choice of moisture. And, well…if you’re on this blog, odds are your choice is a face oil.

So, how does a facial tonic and facial oil work together? Synergistically if you take a cerebral approach to using essences & botanicals to soothe aggravated oily & dry skin types. “They're very soothing,” says Dr. Jensen Yeung, medical director of the dermatology program at Women's College Hospital in Toronto. One of the key benefits of facial mists, says Yeung, is “the prevention of water loss when they are applied immediately prior to using a moisturizer.” To most people, a facial mist is something you spritz mid-flight to prevent dehydration. But, these elixirs are so much more.

And, to see what they can really do, I turned to Yüli Skincare, as it’s the first brand to create skin-specific tonics based on need. Founder, Yun Li, took her grad degrees in Natural Sciences and Chemistry & used the benefits of botanical science to rehabilitate her acne-ic skin. In a very non-toxic, non-abrasive, non-irritating way. Something, I totally empathize with as you’ve likely read about my once-a-year bout with cystic acne. Yes, all two of those bastardly zits that simply refuse to come out & play. And, since I, too, face the dehydration & dry patches that follow from my overzealous use of whatever topical I’m testing this month, a mist sounds just about right.

Yun says face oils and toners work in unison to help infuse those pretty desirable blends of active nutrients and botanicals deeper into skin. "I'm a big fan of hydrosols and our elixirs contain the some of the purest, most effective hydrosol combinations on the market, bar none. When I first started transitioning away from the harsh pharmaceutical acne treatments years ago, hydrosols gave me the quickest and most obvious results with my skin issues. You notice the toning and conditioning effects right away and there aren't any side effects like redness or irritation."

Yüli offers three, 100% natural facial toners to wash away dullness & perk up skin:

• Cocoon Elixir: The skin calmer. It uses regenerative Aloe Barbadensis as the base for Calendula and Rose Otto essences to nurture temperamental skin back to its balanced state. It’s got quite a medicinal tinge at first spritz, which disappears faster than the elixir itself. Calendula brings a healthy dose of polysaccharides to heal up skin while Rose Otto (Yüli imports this from Eastern Europe) de-stresses the pH levels.
• Panacea Elixir: The anti-zit toner. This one uses Aloe Vera Gel at its core to bring up the pH balance, but also has Rosemary’s antibacterial function to calm down inflammation from occasional breakouts. The stand-out ingredient is Tulsi – India’s holy grail herb. According to a 2004 study by published in the "Indian Journal of Clinical Biochemistry," Tulsi has potent antioxidant properties whereby it neutralizes dangerous biochemicals that contribute to degenerative diseases and premature aging. Surprisingly, this has a sweet tang to its spritz.
• Metamorphic Elixir: The mature skin tonic. For mature skins, Yun’s sensitive eye connects organically cultivated bioactives (Rose, Helichrysum, Frankincense, Rosehip & Myrrh) hydrosols with Carrot extracts nurtured alongside Sodium Hyaluronate to plump from within. Helichrysum largely reigns over the Rose with its fenugreek-like scent and lasts the longest of the 3 elixirs.

Yun gives us an elixir tip: “Don't be afraid to liberally mist and saturate your skin with the elixir and then wait a couple of minutes to apply the facial oil, it makes the bioactives more potent and absorb quicker.” I noticed the face oil does sink in rather nicely and doesn’t separate as one might expect with blending oil & water or hydrosol in this case.

As the two are winsome pair, facial tonics seem to be on the rise bringing a new botanical story to any face oil. Yüli’s research suggests some plants work complementarily, which means you may just want to pair your elixir with one the brand’s discerning face oils. Which one? Skin Fuel is the one I’ll try first...

Price: $$$
Scent Classification: Fresh
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (1/10)

Pureology is a brand inspired by organic matter and how it breathes life into hair. And, here is that one philosophy that gets beyond the marketing cache to bring completely pure products to treat up dry tresses. Take, for instance, the recently launched Precious Oil ($40), which is a weightless, serum-like treatment that is the first Green Seal certified product. This means the hair oil is 100% biodegradable, silicon/paraben free and is holistically recaptured to reduce environmental impact.

So, you feel good about getting a 100% eco-safe product. How about one that serves as a refuge from frizzy, brittle strands? Well, here’s some interesting news for you. Turns out the moisture from everyday water isn’t hair’s or salon colouring’s BFF. Steven Henley, Senior Director of US Education for Pureology, says, “Water is the biggest enemy of hair colour. The natural state of hair is to be hydrophobic, which means it repels water. However as we colour our hair, our hair shaft weakens and becomes hydrophilic, thus attracting water and causing colour to leak from the hair. Precious Oil actually penetrates the hair to rebuild the lipid content, thus returning hair from it’s hydrophilic to hydrophobic state. It literally turns back the clock on hair damage!”

For years, I thought highlights faded due to stripping shampoos, but it turns out it was also helped by plain ‘ole water. And, there’s nothing more confusing then shopping for the appropriate shampoo & conditioner for wispy fine hair that is colour-treated. So, a hair oil makes good sense.

Precious Oils uses Sunflower Seed, Olive Fruit, Jojoba Seed & Coconut carriers to treat fragile strands with deft doses of Omega 6 fatty acids, phospholipids, and vitamins to deliver a mega-shine finish and protect professional hair colours. Of the lot, what’s interesting to note is how Coconut oil has high moisture retaining capacity, since it is not broken down easily nor evaporated, being very stable. It does not let moisture escape thus keeping hair moistened and soft. This is what prevents breakage of hair while improving elasticity. And, with its low molecular weight, it penetrates the hair shaft on spot to bring out some serious silkiness.

Precious Oil also includes their proprietary OleoAntiFadeComplex, which “guarantees to deliver 4X active ingredients from root to tip to provide superior colour retention.” A quick review of the label shows the key ingredients are oils, so it’s nice to know it’s the pure stuff getting in deep to protect against damage from chemicals. Scentwise, it’s trying to be a suitingly mature coconutty floral with a tropical bent. It works nice and lasts a bit if you use the oil as a leave-in conditioner to detangle with a few drops. This is the suggested method for coarse or curlier hair types. Straight-laced ladies can use 1-2 drops before shampoo-ing to give deeper conditioning. It does wash out with one rinse, so don’t think you’ll be left looking like a grease monkey.

Precious Oil is a refreshing move away from chemically-laden serums, which…oh, well, you’ve read enough of my posts on the tyranny of their uselessness. Nice to see an oil that has improved the quality of mass market oils out there. Yes, they are now the norm.

Price: $$$
Scent Classification: Green, Woody
Viscosity: Ultralight viscous (2/10)

By itself, Vanilla Orchid Antioxidant Oil ($21.99) you'd hardly say the bottle is considered of any contextual kitsch. Rather, my experience, thus far, with Badger Balm leads me to suspect the brand is in cahoots with some serious aromatherapist tucked away in their environmentally conscious Badger mines. Sure, the CEO, Badger Bill (as he likes to be called), discovered long back how his penchant for essential oils and herbs can do wonders for his thickly calloused hands from carpentry. But, considering the company has a face oil in addition to a line of comfortable and unassuming body oils, something tells me Badger’s genial appreciation for oils is going to get us many more fun treatments to come.

Sensibly priced for the budget conscious shopper, the USDA approved Vanilla Orchid Antioxidant Oil is a creamy mélange Grapefruit & Sicilian Orange essentials blended with certified organic Jasmine & Vanilla Orchid fragrances. At first glance, you’ll be tempted to reach for the bottle in that vain hope of finding an Orchid-based body oil, but, the Vanilla Planifolis is simply the flowering plant from which you can extract vanillin. It’s one of the more unusually fleeting scents due to the zest of Grapefruit, which rises above the Sicilian Orange. And, even that occurs in a flash of an eye before the oil settles into the scent of…well, an oil.

Jojoba, extra virgin Olive, Pomegranate, Sea Buckthorn are the key carriers (also certified organic) with CO2 extracts of Rosehip. Fret not, as the amber-ish oil doesn’t smell like an oil, but anyone familiar with Sea Buckthorn will know that its slightly musky scent is likely overshadowing the zest of the essences here. Shucks, as the Sicilian Orange definitely imparts a quiet, classical aura with a vivid verdancy, if you can catch it quick enough.

Serious skin treating will happen here. Sea Buckthorn has high levels of omega-3, -7 and -9; and Vitamins C, E, B1, B6 and beta-carotene and is known to provide a natural UV protection for the skin. While Pomegranate Seed goes to work on scaly, dry elbows and knees to regenerate skin revealing a softer version.

For those who’d like a body oil without a persistent scent, this is a worthy one to consider. Despite the duo of sparkling essentials, it would be somewhat naïve to think essentials equate to perfume-y or something obvious of the sort. Here, you’ll get a bare basic body oil that can be put to instant use anywhere – body, hair, nails, etc. without offending the nose or fragrance you wear.

The naturalness of simplicity can sometimes bring a far more pleasant surprise with undeniable results.

Price: $$
Scent Classification: Floral
Viscosity: Slightly viscous (3/10)

This oil is minimalism & elegance as reflected through Jasmine Sambac. And, that is what we’ve come to appreciate from the Danish. Henriette Holst, the founder of Kō Denmark, has created a bright & cheery body oil ($45) not from the need to introduce a flanking accessory to her wildly popular perfume oil, but from a high school chemistry experiment that called for her to make soap from all natural oils like Jojoba for a class project. Henriette loved the fun so much, she continued making soaps for her inner circle until a couple of years ago, when she launched her brand an expanding into a fledging body care line based on the simplicity of the blend & design.

Kō Denmark means ‘the little one’ but mind you there’s nothing little about the classically sensual mélange of essences that rush out of the curiously sleek bottle, which is no doubt a nod to Henriette’s Danish heritage. First off, the body oil is certified and has no parabens, perfume, sulfates, mineral oil, or artificial colours. It’s as pure as can be for sensitive skins.

I’m often asked what makes for a good body oil – treatment? Scent? Packaging? Yes. And, then comes the blank stare. Body oils fill a variety of needs – dry skin, fragrance harmonizing, and sometimes even portability. This body treatment does all three. At least for me. Lightly viscous, the skin softener uses Safflower, Apricot Kernel, Sweet Almond, Jojoba, Olive and Aloe carriers to comprise the richness of moisture. While most of the oils bring the requisite antioxidant effects and fatty acid plumping action, Aloe oil is of interest. Clinical trials yield strong evidence of Aloe's ability to cure dry skin disorders as the plant’s curative powers do, in fact, stand up to scientific scrutiny. Did you know there are more than 200 chemical compounds in Aloe Vera and a number of them help heal dry skin? In short, its super-rich content Vitamin C, E and Zinc stimulate the epidermal growth and the skin repair process when damaged. Aloe Vera also contains Keratin and Panthenol, which makes it an excellent hair care agent. Considering Aloe oil is listed pretty high up on the roster of ingredients, this would make the body oil a good choice for conditioning dry scalps and ends, too.

Abandon your prejudice of Jasmine. Luminous in the most innocent of fragrant ways, there is a fresh clarity with the inner rush of Indian Sambac, which is nicely reimagined by a sparkling Tunisian Neroli. A gentle sweetness peeks from within, likely from the Bulgarian Rose. The purity of scent doesn’t leave a sweet impression on skin, but rather a quasi-citrus-y one as the Rose has a slightly subtler radiance than the Neroli. Rosemary & Neem are daring touches to what is a strongly floral scent, but you’d never notice their presence tucked deep within. The oil is alluring with an interesting progression towards the subliminally softened Neroli with a pleasant sweetness. Despite having sharply reduced the elements on the label, the oil has quite a welcomed textural richness.

What’s nice about Kō Denmark is the brand also offers a roll on perfume with the same essences, which allows you to harmonize your splashes of Jasmine for longer lasting power. And, the enviably slim plastic bottle makes it an easy to travel with oil, tucking nicely into your gym bags.

Giveaway: Now, for my first foray into some blogging fun. You know of my disdain for shameless marketing self-promotions and that extends to my stance on giveaways. While I’ve never felt the need to host giveaways to drive possibly manipulated metrics to this blog (you are here because you want to be, not because I bribed you to be), I’m thrilled to announce Kō Denmark is excited to send one (1) lucky reader a generous, full sized bottle of this unmistakably uplifting elixir. And, I am equally thrilled to have readers learn more about niche brands with much promise making their attentive impact in the beauty space. To enter, get to Kō Denmark’s Twitter page, follow the brand, & tweet me the answer or leave a comment below:

What Jasmine, Neroli, Rose based product would you like to see launched from the brand next? #KoTrifecta

One commenter* will be randomly picked & announced on Twitter on Friday May 18, 2012 at 12:00 PST.

Fruitful oils & dialogues belong together.

Price: $$$
Scent Classification: Floral
Viscosity: Slightly viscous (3/10)

*U.S. residents, please. Winner will need to contact me within 3 days or we'll find us another lucky commenter.

Body oils inherently remind me of the chaste & fiery practice called sola singaar – an ancient, Indian practice of adoring one’s self in excited anticipation for…oh well…the deed with 16 separate beauty accoutrements. The tradition hails from the divine folds of Sanskrit and includes perfume as the systematic seducer of the opposite sex. Sure, the mythic courtesans used Rose & Sandalwood liberally to enhance the powers of their prowess, but Jiva Apoha’s Kama (Love) Body Oil ($80) would have made these maidens drop either of two in favour of Ylang Ylang.

To harmonious blend Ylang Ylang with a musk and induce a righteously heady result that will keep him begging at the knees is a challenge. Most blenders tend to add to its tropical opulence by layering it with additional florals akin in spirit and flourish. Angela Shore (founder of Jiva Apoha) does it differently. What makes this a striking manifestation of Ylang Ylang is the synergy between the 100% pure Black Musk, Water Lily, and Lotus oils foiled ornately in a base of Sesame & Sunflower carriers. Overly sheer, the result is mischievous irresistible & adventurous.

Water Lily and Lotus rest softly over the enticing musk making the scent slightly aloof yet teasing on the edge of a racy finish. Renegade without fault, it’s seriously unlike anything else out there in the market with a classically fresh smell while elevating the intrigue of Black Musk. Uncannily light, the suave oil sinks nicely, but you’ll wish for the scent to last longer, almost with the poetic sillage of a perfume one. Happily, I've even tried wearing it as one in the vain hope the scent will last with the sentiment to stir up the passions. It almost does...

Sesame Seed oil is rich in antioxidants, but ironically it pulls toxins from your skin which prevents blackheads and fades dark spots. The carrier also brings Vitamin E, lecithin, minerals, proteins, and amino acids to skin allowing it to function as an anti-inflammatory. This comes in handy when using the body oil over acneic backs or soothing post-waxed areas under arms or even…way…down…there.

Ethereal in scent, refined in texture, there’s no denying the memorable richness & mysticism of Kama. If sexy can be bottled up, Jiva Apoha has done it here. Quite frankly, I do have my share of favourite regulars on my vanity table, but I cannot get enough of this soil. So much so, my bottle is shamelessly near half-empty just from getting this review up. It’s quite a magnificent elixir when you fall back onto something so non-descript from what you already have tried before. That’s the marvel of Jiva Apoha – Angela’s imaginative blends never cease to inspire a quiver of glee.

Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Floral Musk
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (1/10)

Rose fans are a fanatical bunch. They know their Turkish varieties from the Indian ones. To them, the evergreen Rose is discreet luxury – breathtaking and standard-setting. And, then we have the Lavender bunch. These folks appreciate the rather understatement of the herby wonder en masse. Its quietude and blendability seem appreciated by all.

And, then there’s me. Seeking out a blender’s delight in velvety oil. Nothing surprises like the ethereal beauty possessing a touch of some sweet something. Badger’s Damascus Rose Antioxidant Face Oil ($11.99) is one such elegant, voluptuous oil that you could wear on its own. At this wallet-happy price, you’ll be surprised to know the face treatment is actually USDA approved; meaning it is made from ingredients grown and processed without chemical fertilizers, growth hormones, GMOs, or synthetic pesticides. Considering the hefty logo, you’d expect to pay far more, but that’s what we love about Badger – its exercise in affordable amenities at believable price points.

The flourish of the oil is mostly of Maillette Lavender; its sprigs sweetened by the tinge of Rose Otto with a fleeting breath of Roman Chamomile. The three in unison result in a soft taste of some garden as if the essences were bottled fairly young. But, give it a few to allow the Rose to fully envelope the skin with its usual depth and dusk, leaving skin scented with the tenderness and comfort of Rose. Now, the oil is perfect for the floral and herb fans alike.

Full-bodied in feel, the oil is made from the “Three Sisters” of antioxidant activity – organic Rosehip, Calendula, and Sea Buckthorn. Baobab oil is layered densely between Jojoba and Pomegranate carriers, as well. Baobab is s rare carrier seen among this category. Baobab is an exotic natural that tightens and tones the skin, moisturizes and encourages skin cell regeneration. It contains fatty acids (omega 3-6-9), sterols, proteins, minerals and amino acids. Topical application of this nourishing, antioxidant carrier promises to alleviate chronic dry skin and chronic bruising by improving skin elasticity and boosting epidermal softening.

The anti-ager is an promising introduction to newbies wanting to gain some face oil experience, as the scent doesn’t overpower, but lasts longer than most without veering towards the stereotypical, perfume-y granny style Rose. Sumptuous and well done with a tasteful eye, really. Blends without a trace and it fruitful in its silken feel. It could possible even leapfrog over some of the more pricier versions with its deft amounts of the magical duskiness from Rose Otto. Also known as 'Attar of Roses', the oil pressings of rose petals also helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and its mild astringent action is effective in reducing and fading those unsightly broken capillaries (spider veins) and red patches if you use it regularly in your skin care routine.

If you’re tempted to try a face oil, but still fear the unwarranted myth of using oils, a few droplets of this serum will spike up your moisturizer’s results in an instant.

Yes, roses can be fun.

Price: $
Scent Classification: Floral
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (2/10)

The Rose Cherry Lip Gloss by Korres ($17) is pretty much a realistic vignette of its namesake colour. Make no mistake as this isn’t just another gloss with another heaping dose of Vitamin E pledged to soften up lips. Korres introduces a line a semi-opaque glosses using Cherry oil is the key fixative.

Blended with both sweet & bitter Cherry oils is Jojoba (and some good ‘ole wax for consistency) gives you a high shine, lip plumping gloss tinged ever so slightly with the cherubic sweetness of Cherry. Among the beauty glories from Athen, Cherry Oil is a rarer one; it boasts of Vitamins A, B, C, and E, minerals, pantothenic acid, and one rare fatty acid called eleostearic, a linolenic acid that prevents UV absorption by forming a natural sunscreen on the surface of the skin.

The Rose is an interesting shade – far more poignant than the usual nudes & beiges. It’s a glossy pink with the smatterings of gold flecks suspended just right in the formulation. Think not of those disco 80s glitter chunking up your nails these days. Non-tacky in feel, here the light reflecting effects of the glimmer blends superbly well on most skin tones and wears nicely over liner. I used Mac’s Buerre for helping the gloss last through a lunch meeting without fear of feathering.

It’s one of the most freshest and magnetic lip glosses hitting the market this spring. Though, now I still want that Naked Beige, too.

Are Squalane and Squalene the same thing or not? Well, kind of.

Both elements are natural components found within our own human sebum. This is the skin’s organic way to coat & protect skin from environmental aggressors, pollution, free radicals, or any other icky airborne thing that’ll want to edge its way into the epidermis and raise havoc on your snappish collagen & elastin. Both Squalane & Squalene are found in some popular carrier oils – Rice Bran, Wheat Germ, Olive, but sometimes they are derived from shark liver oil. Yes, hunters went on the prowl to encapsulate shark Squalene for health reasons. The Japanese were the first to use Squalene in their beauty cosmetics, however, the controversial ingredient has fallen quickly out of favour with American brands due to its weird origins & possibly unethical extractions.

Now, for some science speak. Squalene is highly unstable as a cosmetic ingredient no matter what original source it’s derived from. This is because it is a double bond molecule, which means it’s got a very short shelf life and so is quick to oxidize or spoil. On the other hand, Squalane’s intricate faction is that it is not a double bond molecule, so it is much more stable as a cosmetic ingredient. Squalane actually a shelf life of over 2 years and does not oxidize quickly with exposure to air as the ratios of fatty acids and Squalane are very similar to those of sebum. Squalane is alaso botanical lipid that is the same in molecular structure and weight to human lipids (scientists found that the skin's sebaceous glands synthesized approximately 10-12% Squalane). Today’s more commonly used Squalane is plant-derived as opposed to the animal-derived (shark liver oil) of years ago. Produced from olives, the valuable lipid is extremely compatible with the skin and is safe for all skin types, though Squalene may may be comedogenic & not suitable for acne skins.

Did you know that Squalane, naturally present in the skin and increasing during adolescence to a peak at about age 25 (although recently this has dropped to 23) and drops rapidly thereafter. And by the time we are 50, natural Squalane production can be as low as 5%. From some point in your late 20s, some replenishment is required, hence the need to supplement your skincare regimen with a face oil extremely generous in its Squalane content. Some of its benefits include:

• Permeates at a rate of 2mm per second
• Boosts Cell Regeneration and Oxygenation
• Helps prevent age spots, UV damage to skin, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and retain moisture
• Heals chapped /cracked skin
• Brings Antibacterial Properties
• Imparts relief to dehydrated and ultra-sensitive skin
• Softens the most rough-textured skin and leaves no oily residue
• Counteracts conditions of eczema, psoriasis, and post-operative skin.
• Is highly stable
• Can be applied throughout the day to soften dry, scaly spots.
• Used under make-up as a primer to maximize the effects of moisturizers.
• Packaged at 100% concentration and sold as a serum type product.

Whatever you choice, the lipid is certainly prized for its penetrating& healing merits.

Ayala Moriel creates from an soulful edge in the perfumery world. And, it’s not just with any soul per se, but with a rush of rave mysticism that allows her fragrances and oils to rejoice on skin with their usually inexplicable intricate blends. But, this time around I found two body oils, which lend a peculiar synergistic quality when paired together, bringing both an intrigue with complexity and sensuality. But, on their own, White Potion Sensual Anointing Body Oil ($25) and Megumi Anointing Body Oil ($25) are equally vivid in their quiet elegance.

The first of the two is a hearty blend of Tuberose, Coconut, and Sandalwood is comes off quite marvelous. Sandalwood isn’t as pronounced as the two complementary essentials, how does accent the creamy Tuberose on the sly. As the oil warms up on skin, the Coconut seemingly disappears into the lush Tuberose and is transformed from any mundane milkiness into something a bit more tropic and fun. Be assured as the Sandalwood is felt much later, but not with any overt duskiness you’re used to smelling. The essences are blended into plumpy Fractionated Coconut, Jojoba, and Shea oils while Squalene (olive-derived) delivers on its promise to regenerate lackluster skin into something more velvety.

White Potion releases scent better on the skin than from the bottle. Salycilates in Tuberose tend to get camouflaged in the oil bases & remain dormant. They won't wake up until they hit a warm living skin - Ayala

I like my Tuberose scents a bit green. When the mood strikes, of course. And, strike it did. Megumi is an interesting aromatic foretaste of Vetiver and Jasmine, which just brings amazing, unbound possibilities here. Both, equally balanced, are startling on the skin. Mind you, repeat sniffs will follow as the ever so askew Vetiver has a roundabout earthiness to which Jasmine gleefully folds into. The unconventional pairing is so attuned to the naturalness of skin (with the teensiest hints og Ginger & Cardamom), you’ll actually wonder how come we haven’t seen this before? Thank Ayala for imagining up some kind of natural faceted oil for us. Rice Bran oil is the preferred carrier (which offers a small degree of sun protection), in addition to the abovementioned flanking ones. Perhaps, this is what makes this version slightly more akin to a dry oil, as Rice Bran of the best sources of tocotrienol, an easily penetrable antioxidant which may be many times more powerful and effective than Vitamin E itself.

Now, the fun. Infuse the two together and you’ve create what turns into a chypric flourish suffused with a light touch of Jasmine that doesn't impair the Tuberose but rather gives it a freshened nymph-like feel and seductively so. That’s the thing about oils when bought in petite sizings. The inimitable layering challenges that you can knowingly adulterate can lead you to some pretty spirited compositions that coexist only in your space and only for your whims.

A fitting luxury for fun, if you ask me.

Price: $$$
Scent Classification: Woody, Floral
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (2/10)