I turned to long time master Paul Yacomine to demystify the need to use a hair oil and regularly so. He’s a celebrity stylist whose impact on hair oils is going to be unmistakable. Paul’s head count includes working on supermodels like Elle Macpherson, Naomi Campbell, and Kate Moss & Hollywood elite like Uma Thurman and Minnie Driver, all of whom have entrusted their lust-worthy locks to a man who understands more than hair & how it behaves. Paul also gets the science behind the products and how they work synergistically when creating his ultra-glam aesthetic whether it was for the runway or for a Vogue cover spread. There are some rather exciting whispers are abuzz over Paul’s recently launched eponymous line of irrepressibly chic hair care at Sephora. Here he speaks on what makes for a great hair oil and what mistakes we all make (and should avoid):
What’s the most important thing to look for when considering a hair oil?
Paul: To see the importance of oil to hair, consider the evolutionary biology. The body produces oil to protect, clean and condition our hair. Nothing has this affinity to the hairs porous structure than oil. However, with chemical processing and heat styling pure essential oils by themselves are not enough.
By combing oils and using modern emulsifying techniques I’ve enhanced the protective and conditioning properties of natural oils. The emulsion process enables a micro layer of essential oils to spread further and more evenly. This process does not prevent but reduces the speed at which these oils are absorbed allowing an even encapsulation of the hair shaft. Regular fine oils are absorbed too quickly leaving unevenly distributed patches around the hair shaft. This can leave the hair looking oily and often puts people off.
Oils have varying degrees of viscosity and weight. The best quality oils have a higher absorption rate with a molecular weight of less than 1000m. I like to test an oil on the back of my hand. This almost always gives me an indication as to performance on the hair. An oil should spread evenly and the bulk being absorbed without feeling too oily or tacky. Ultimately, you are looking for an oil that will lightly flatten the cuticle, add texture and shine without weighing down the hair. To test on the hair use your finger tips and palms apply a little oil to the mid lengths and ends. Let the oil be absorbed before continuing. Chemically processed hair tends to be more porous and will need something with a little more weight. The best treatments for colour processed hair are my serum/essential oil combinations.
Do you recommend any specific tips on using your hair oil?
Paul: By combing and emulsifying oils, I’ve reduced the potential for overloading the hair which is the most common issue for people using oils (see first paragraph). Micro offers the prospect of constantly having a light layer of oil on your hair that maintains and protects until you’re ready to wash. This light layer of oil all will help remove ingrained debris (build-up) during the washing process. Your hair will be cleaner, shinier and your colour more vibrant.
I know some recommend heating up a hair oil; others argue this breaks down the integrity of the essences. Your final word on this?
Paul: Heat can be catalyst for deeper penetration of the hair mass. However, applying a little oil to your hair and then blow drying achieves the same result. It’s always a good idea to use a little oil on your hair before any heat processing, straightening in particular.
What’s the one thing women do wrong when it comes to using hair serums?
Paul: It’s no exaggeration to say that each head of hair is different. I’ve used the same product on two identical heads of hair and been amazed at two totally different results. Even though they look and feel the same there are very subtle differences in porosity than cannot be seen. So there is an element of trial and error. People lose patience and overdo it. With oils, less is more. Oils aren’t always instant condition and shine. Some oils on certain hair types will take time to work. If there is a lot of build-up on the hair shaft the oil will simply sit on top. For some it will be a learning process but the benefits of doing it properly will more than compensate for the effort.
You’ve coiffed the tresses of A-list celebs, styled the cover shoots from Vogue to Grazia, and serviced the famous & notorious in between. What is one hair secret they have that we mortals can steal?
Paul: Keep it simple!
If you’re anything like me, you’ve probably been swooning over those tantalizing glossy tresses in print. It turns out Paul has been experimenting with essential oils for over 25 years, styling & smoothing every pretty little model’s frizzes and flyaways from damaging style sessions. Borne from his business of treating frayed & fried hair is Paul’s Micro Colour Collection Intensive Leave-In Conditioning and Finishing Treatment Set ($38), a trio of intensely nourishing serums that use essential oils to maintain colour. The kit replenishes dehydrated hair with concentrated proteins & silk amino acids that rebuild score strength, structure, and vitality while essential oils protect against breakage. The drier and more porous the hair, the better the results.
There simply isn’t anything comparable to the protective conditioning efficiency of natural oils - Paul
Start off with the Microcolourcare, a semi-opaque serum that delivers keratin proteins into the hair shaft while organic Grapeseed prevents the cuticle from clogging. Organic Almond oil smoothes out the cuticle helping reduce unwanted frizz. When you first open the kit, this is the serum that steals the senses with a distinctive blend of a dusty Rose alongside an earthy Patchouli. Orange and Geranium add a voluptuous character to the scent that does indeed persist a bit. Microcolourcare is a leave-in serum meant to protect any highlights or colouring you may have with its built-in sunscreen. It feels so airy and disappears within seconds of applying to strands.
Microfinish is feathery light, leave-in, clear serum that is easily absorbed by your hair’s natural porosity without build-up or any sticky residue. Nestled to the same composition of oils as above is organic Rosemary, which helps protect the scalp and improve hair’s luster. Here, the essences tend to segue into each other harmoniously, though the effervescence of Orange cuts through the rustic Patchouli, giving more of a citrus slant to the serum.
Microtreatment Oils is what Paul considers his true serum in the traditional sense, but one that truly does deliver on its promise not to weigh down fine, wispy hair. The serum is emulsified with the organic Rose, Patchouli, Orange and Geranium essentials, which help prevent the serum’s film forming properties from becoming continuous. This means that you are only getting serum on parts of the cuticle that need it. Emulsifying the essences helps the treatment also wash out with your regular shampoo, so you don’t need a colour-stripping clarifying one. With added sunscreen, this is the hero serum designed to protect against the environmental aggressors like sun, chlorine and even heat styling. Sniff deep in this one to whet out the Clove, which lends a spicy facet to the scent. Interesting, this oil does seem to have a nice slip to its texture, which improves manageability when combing.
With just 3 days of use, discreet silences and stares on the street proved just how well my locks shined freely helping disguise the offhanded care I usually give it. And, the oils are a speedy, softening solution - never greasy - to the tedium ravages of washing, drying, & styling. Quite simply, they give your hair just the right amount of gloss.
The short on gimmick starter kit is a fantastic way to try sample Paul’s serums to see which one works brings out optimal health and shine in your hair. Though considering your varied needs between salon hopping, it’s likely your hair will benefit from all 3 with their long-term moisturization that works with just about any touchable texture you're born with. It's thanks to Paul’s contemporary curation of essences that hair oils will now warrant some fashion cred with his hip clout & quotient. Here's to hoping Sephora's shelves will soon enough stock his unified range of products (which also includes shampoos & conditioners yet to hit stateside) that lack any overhyped pretense. The sleek, radically futuristic packaging itself is the epitome of cool & grace.
Much like the ever so dashing Paul, himself.
Price: $$
Scent Classification: Floral, Woody
Viscosity: Ultra-light viscosity (1/10)
That tortuous, time-consuming daily regime – shaving. I mean, sure it’s exfoliating on some level, but let’s get real. Men take that to a whole other concept as seen by those white chucks of tissue dotting the chin line trying to cover up some inadvertently earned blood-speckled scrapes. There’s no shame in admitting that even after 20+ years of practicing, a guy can’t get it right. But, it’s not just the wayward nicks, here. Modern men (the term ‘metrosexual’ is so 5 years ago) are slowly graduating from those bargain bin, full-of-sting aftershaves to high-tech skincare treatments to help turn back the time.
Taking the cue from their dazzling better halves, serums and moisturizers rank high on their desire to find something gentle on irritated skin but hardcore in its potency. Jiva Apoha Sundara Oil ($55) is so money; a treatment that delivers on both.
Gritty skins need soothing. It’s just that simple. And, considering how the nicks, cuts, and razor burns leaved delicate skin exposed, Sundara oil is a part serum/part shaving oil, which can actually help provide a steadily smooth shave when used with a razor as a second skin contour. The serum brings plenty of anti-aging effects with Sesame Seed oil, replete with lecithin, minerals, proteins, and amino acids. While this and the Vitamin E speak to fine lines, the Neem oil is what men’s tougher skins will appreciate.
Neem – an ancient Ayurvedic remedy used to treat a variety of skin conditions - is considered to be anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, and antiseptic. In India, the oil is considered a cure-all with its ever-changing functionality due to 31 potent compounds. And, it’s these miracle yet microscopic skin saviors that go send any minor cuts and nicks straight into retreat without scarring.
The best part of this oil is how men can actually use it in two ways – not only condition the skin after a slick shave, but also during one. Sundara can be applied on the face to lube up skin and give a closer cut when shaving with the grain of hair. And, because the oil is clear, blemishes escape unscathed, as a gent can shave around them instead of fumbling around with globs of foam. Still snagged the skin? Not to worry as the oil can soothe the cut with a dab of the oil, which works smartly better than a scrap of tissue that will simply re-open the cut once you tear it off. Just splash the cut with frigid cold water to tighten up the capillaries first.
Neem is never the focal point of this composition. At first whiff, the warm base of Sandalwood impresses right away, but soon thereafter you’re surprised by the juxtaposition of three uncommon essentials – Clove, Fennel and Cardamom creating a spicy vapor permeated ever so slightly with Lemon. There is an intensity with this blend’s medicinal tinge, though it will fade comfortably into skin as none of the essentials will surprise with any unwanted pungency. Fennel's striking sweetness (which can be easily mistaken as Anise) rises atop here. The result is definitely not raucous, but rather comforting to scrappy skin that men (and even women) will welcome if the co-mingling of mesmerizing spices is your sort of thing. Absorbing quickly, Sundara will leave delicate traces of the irresistible blend.
That’s the thing about Jiva Apoha. There is also something harmonious and emotional about the brand’s absolute commitment to blending the unexpected and the concept of turning the mundane — an everyday moisturizer — into the sublime. Here, the 100% pure essences show how face oils truly have limitless possibilities giving banal skincare creams a run for their money and merit.
Price: $$$
Scent Classification: Spicy
Viscosity: Slightly viscosity (4/10)
Naysayers will quickly dismiss the Jojoba by saying, “Been there, done that.” Yeah, but they haven’t tried a face serum complemented with Ascorbyl Palmitate – more commonly know as an oil soluble Vitamin C. You know it's a wickedly strong antioxidant, but new evidence suggests that, in addition to ‘mopping up’ free radicals, Vitamin C can help remove the DNA damage they form, if they get past the cell’s defenses. Now, the oil tells a different story. Not only do the organic Evening Primrose, Sesame, and Jojoba oils nurture dehydrated skin from within, but Vitamin C coupled with Benzoin Resins helps spotty discolourations fade naturally. As with all things organic, it’s not going to happen overnight. But, with dedicated use day & night, the “C” Perfect Skin serum provides gentle and effective cell renewal while instantly lifting and resurfacing skin texture. A plant-derived Squalane helps the elixir readily penetrate within skin.
This is the kind of serum you’ll want to use after any at-home facial as its roster of essences runs aplenty. The oil is a radiant blend of Frankincense, Palmarosa and Lavender, with the bite of Cedar playing off the resinous juices from the heart. Rose is suffused deep within the layered carriers, but not lush enough to notice. The scent results in quite an autumnal feel, potent enough to relax the senses upon the first drops. It ends with an airy quality without allowing the resin to bear down on the tender Lavender. Rosemary brings an astringent touch for oilier skins as well.
Given the juicy oils bottled with a curious yet charming retro edge in the amber-coloured, earth-friendly jar (to protect the potency), it’s not wonder By Nieves was awarded "Best Local Skincare Line" by SF Weekly. At such a reasonable price point, the serum lends a rarified note of luxury in the most unpretentious of ways. Quite the perfect starter oil for anyone curious to skip over overhyped serums in favour of natural healthfulness for skin.
Price: $$
Scent Classification: Green
Viscosity: Slightly viscous (3/10)
While worshipping the sun has fallen largely out of favour with the masses, this doesn’t mean exposed shoulders, legs, and even tummies are immune to the free radical havoc that we know those vicious UV rays will be certain to cause. And, if there was ever a common sense product that hadn’t hit the marketplace before, it has now. How has no thought to put out an oil with SPF protection? Vichy has. And, it’s simply a must have for anyone who spends more than 15 minutes in the sun doing whatever is their idea of engaging in some fashionably hip or relaxing outdoorsy fun.
Vichy’s Protective Oil ensconces a broad-spectrum, allergy-tested SPF 30 within a base of Fractionated Coconut and Grapeseed oil. Grapeseed contains polyphenols, which are antioxidants that can help slow the process of aging, as well as bring anti-inflammatory benefits to soothe on the spot any raw, sun-seared skin from overexposure. Both work synergistically to retard the evaporation of precious moisture from within but without clogging the pores. This is just what’s needed for summer. For prudent measure, you really ought to spritz the oil over shoulders or feet, which will likely be getting some incidental exposure with strappy dresses and sandals. Heck, go on and use the UV filters over hair to protect the strands from getting stripped in the ocean’s brindy-y water, as the oil will coat your hair and the SPF will protect. I did and it does really wash out with one shampoo rinse.
Beyond the delectable charm of its colour, the oil is quite hydrating and satiny dry oil, but blends within seconds. And, don’t be shy with your sprays as the more you use, the more you protect. Though fragrance is listed, it’s too subtle of a floral scent to even notice, which may be a good thing for those finicky noses. A bit chemically scented, fleeting at most, but that's just the SPF settling onto your skin.
Really, this oil is an unquestionably staple protectant for the body with its tech-y slant, whether you love oils or not. Where was it all along?
Price: $$
Scent Classification: Floral
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (1/10)
Can the recent rise in appreciation of body oils & balms be attributed to Julie Elliot, founder of San Francisco-based In Fiore? I’d concur with Departures & GQ, who say so. Only the luxury few have stumbled upon her sophisticated blends using herbs, tinctures, and essences all hand infused under the sunny skies of California. Julie’s got that utter sense of cool that teeters with an effusive wit. You know she just gets high-end luxury in all that she does. Rumour has it Steven Tyler stormed the offices of Barneys NY asking them why they didn’t carry In Fiore. He loves her Shevanti Balm – a treatment truly worth obsessing over. Ultradeluxe packaging and botanicals aside, the minutia of Julie’s art matters to her every day in every little thing.
What are your musical inspirations as you create & concoct your fabulously inventive oils?
Julie: Interestingly, a teacher and mentor of mine uses music to express the feeling of an oil during his lectures so I learn a lot about the 'essence' of an oil through music. However, I'm more inspired by the actual complexity of an individual oil's character. For me blending is about letting go and "do nothing," allowing the oils to take over. The essences are the music.
What is your idea of earthly happiness?
Julie: Freedom to travel the world in search of new experiences in culture, food, music, and art, and luxuriate in the beauty of nature…swimming in coves of turquoise blue waters and taking naps on yachts in the Mediterranean. All of the above enriched with dear friends, and a delicious love.
What is the one thing women don’t get about essentials, herbs, tinctures, etc.?
Julie: Well, I would say some people may not be aware that essential oils and herbs have bioenergetic properties that work with human bioenergy. The energy fields of essential oils vibrate at a frequency high enough to achieve resonance with the energy body. For example, lemongrass is associated with the sun and light body. Some people may think it is only the aroma of lemongrass that eases their stress, exhaustion, or depression, but there is an energetic shift as well. Essential oils act as a mirror image of a disturbance in order to bring balance.
What are your current beauty faves right now?
Julie: My favorite beauty products tend to come from foods and tonics. I don't care what anyone says, if your diet isn't good your skin won't look good. Blue Ice Royal (cinnamon flavor) by Green Pasture is genius. Blue Ice Royal is a blend of fermented cod liver oil with x-factor vitamin butter oil. I know I know, it sounds nasty, but the cinnamon helps make the medicine go down and it's worth it. This combo is said to be more effective than taking cod liver oil on its own. It is high in omega-3s, and vitamins A and D, and really helps to balance hormones and prevent breakouts. After just a short time of using this product, my skin is more taught and supple.
Nothing beats eating lots of fresh greens and vegetables for gorgeous skin, but when I'm traveling or simply not prepared I take Ormus Greens by SunWarrior. It is a blend of raw probiotic cultured greens in powder form with a hint of peppermint and stevia. I like to mix the powder in pure water or coconut water and drink throughout the day or on long flights. The peppermint and stevia make it really easy to drink. It is also great blended in smoothies.
I swear by Beet Kvass, a tonic made by fermenting beets with whey and sea salt. When I'm on my game I drink it every morning and evening. It is an excellent blood tonic, cleanses the liver, and alkalizes the blood. Beets in general have a regenerating effect on the body. I buy mine fresh made from Three Stone Hearth, but I'm starting to see them available in health food stores.
My favorite In Fiore products for this time of year are Visage Vitale and Nourrit Face Oil Concentré. Visage Vitale detoxifies and oxygenates skin and gives it a boost and acts as a catalyst by stimulating circulation and increasing absorption of nutrients. Nourrit oil provides just the right amount of nourishment for my skin during spring and summer months, and I just can't seem to get enough of that jasmine and frankincense aroma. The combination is very revitalizing.
My favorite products for an at-home facial: In Fiore's Masque Royale, a compound of flowers and royal jelly for deep healing and rejuvenation. Three times per week I give my skin a good exfoliation using Lustra Cleansing Balm Concentré. Afterwards I slather Masque Royale on my face, neck, and decolleté and allow it to penetrate for a good 15-20 minutes. Then I take a tiny amount of Fleur Vibrante in the palm of my hand, add a spritz of Vitale, and massage with the remaining Masque Royale into skin. Afterwards you skin is dreamy, dewy, and glowing.
I love a good red lipstick, but unfortunately this is the one product category where I have not converted to the pure naturals. I'm waiting for someone to totally "bring it" with the natural lipsticks. And when I say bring it, I mean in every capacity from color, quality, texture, staying power, and packaging. Until that day comes, my favorite is Serge Lutens. The faceted lipstick vessels are like holding little gems in your hands, the tip of the lipstick is shaped like a diamond, and the staying power is unsurpassed. My favorite colors are Mise a Mort and Garden Rose. First I smooth and nourish my lips with a little In Fiore Veloutée balm, then apply a light layer of Serge for color.
I'm big into layering scent, and my secret weapon is Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules. Molecule is a single note that evolves as a velvety woody essence on skin. I use it as a base when I start the layering process with my oils and balms. Orange flower, saffron, frankincense, rose bourbon, jasmine sambac, vetiver, patchouli, and traditional attars are my favorite oils to wear as scent.
Your Jasmine and Rose essences seem to have shadowy, exotic touch to them. Why is this?
Julie: I prefer the darker sexy side of florals so I use touches of patchouli and vetiver to bring out those characteristics. Frankincense is also a key component in my florals -especially within the Complexion Treatments range. If I want something a little more soft and subtle I will use sandalwood. I tend to stay away from using too much of the sickeningly sweet citruses as top notes. They ruin it for me, regardless of their properties. I'd rather find another way such as through the quiet use of herbal infusions in the base. My approach to blending is not like that of a classically trained perfumer. There is so much more I that I take into consideration when I approach a blend.
What jewelry are you wearing right now?
Julie: On one hand I'm wearing a gold ring that is set with a beautiful scarab carved out of Libyan gold tektite. It has this amazing phosphorous-like energy. On my other hand I'm wearing a gold signet-type ring of an Eye with the inscription 'IN VIGILARE' around the band. And on my toes I'm wearing several fine yellow and rose gold bands that I have been collecting throughout the years from when I was a teenager.
What’s up next from In Fiore?
Julie: We have a new website launching in June with some limited edition products exclusive to In Fiore. Many times I get inspired by a rare and special oil and produce a limited edition run that is sold only at our parfumerie on Post street. With the new web shop we will now be able to offer those online. We will also offer gift certificates and a sampling program.
I’m waiting for this next one…Huile de Nav?
Good news, ladies! You’ve ditched the parabens from your skincare, but what about ditching them way down there? Ok, as it wasn’t confusing enough to figure out what’s safe to put on your skin, you may want to re-consider what you put in your skin. I got to thinking about balms and how most organic mavens are hip to the salacious fluff found among their ingredient lists. What about Astroglide? No, I wasn’t thinking about the product per se, but then came across a balm that is specifically created to address the concern that lubricants can cause cellular damage, some more than others. While the study surely sparks some concerns, why take a chance even if a definitive no isn’t so clear?
A quick glance at Astroglide’s makeup shows it’s made from water (which you can get at home), glycerin (which you can get online), and the rest from glycols and parabens – two not-so-organic things the organic industry has been shunning. Got intimate needs to lube up? By Nieves The Balm ($40) is a saucy organic alternative to the goop from the drugstore. Good enough to eat, actually.
A sex balm, did I say, and that so without ridicule? Ok, well, it’s actually an all-purpose balm (a great hand job, if I may say so myself as batches are made fresh), designed to remedy dry skin anywhere on the bod. You can use on dehydrated faces, ragged cuticles and even condition your frayed ends with it as its largely made from Coconut oil, which has a unique chemical structure that allows the oil to absorb all the way into each hair shaft to replenish moisture that has been lost through damage to the hair. Coconut’s Lauric Acid also bring antibacterial, antiviral and antimicrobial qualities, which wards off any…ahem…uninvited allergans. While Soy Wax gives the balm a teensy bit of structure, Sesame oil is what turns the every day balm into a nourishing oasis with a bit of slip. Help for your love glove, if you will. Chafing, begone!
And, to help any lukewarm ladies get worked up if the hopeless sputtering of his pillow talk doesn’t inspire, the melt-in-your-hands balm is scented with delicate essences. A restrained Virginia Cedar imparts room for scatterings of sweetened Lavender and Orange while the sharpened opulence of Ylang Ylang (an uplifting aphrodisiac) adds a gorgeously feminine feel. And, let’s face it – the earth friendly, decorative jar is far prettier to leave on the nightstand than a slimey tube.
In your heart of hearts, you know to safe in every which possible. And, that does mean you ought to consider dumping those nasty parabens for something a little sweet, a little edible, and a lot more fun. And, just an FYI - the balm may just become his new best friend, as Cosmo says some welcomed wet n’ wild slick will also soften up any hard worries about performance anxiety.
Price: $$
Scent Classification: Aromatic, Citrus
Texture: Non-sticky, warms up to spread (4/10)
India oil is an ultra-refined treatment richly scented with the smolder of an amorphous, un-spicy Amber, which is blended between Argan and Moringa oils. It’s quite a striking, resiny Amber in its fullness, softened slightly by a Vanillic underpinning. And, it won’t lose you attention as massaging the oil in does instantaneously relax you. While you’ve already appreciated Argan’s high content of Omega-6, vitamin E and polyphenols (which has been reported to stimulate the keratin produced), Moringa oil is the newbie to love, too.
Rich in palmitoleic, oleic and linoleic acids, Vitamins A & C, Moringa oil brings superb moisturizing qualities as it blends easily with essential oils. But, in addition to this, the oil also boasts a high amount of collagen (almost 4 times that of Carrot Seed), which helps with healing wounds. For itchy, dry scalps, this is what will soothe the skin and eliminate the dandruff flakes quick enough. More fun facts on Moringa:
- It has 4 times as much Vitamin A as a carrot
- 17 times the Calcium as milk
- 15 times as much Potassium as a banana
- 25 times the iron in Spinach
Icon products are professional, salon grade treatments, so you can click here to locate where to personally pick up a fresh bottle of the juicy hair plumper. The progressive India collection also includes a Moringa/Argan rich shampoo, conditioner, and the newly launched, leave-in healing spray, which has the same composition as the oil but with added Aloe Leaf and hydrolyzed proteins from Quinoa to penetrate the shaft and treat deeply while you style. No, grease here, either. This spray gives hair a subtle, natural-looking sheen and is so light that you won't feel any trace of product. Perfect for spring’s sexy ponytails and tousled waves.
They say you can’t invent much in a hair oil, but Icon proves otherwise. This supreme oil quenches the thirstiest hair, calms frizz, elevates shine, and restores hair to supernatural softness with regular, weekly use.
Price: $$$
Scent Classification: Ambery
Viscosity: Medium viscosity (4/10)
Spring cleaning is sort of a ritual for a woman. If it’s not gussying up her home and its dusty innards, it’s sweeping off the vanity table with that all to familiar feeling in the air – I want something that smells pretty and new. And so, when a fragrance isn’t enough, when a body oil’s Vanilla underpinnings just don’t excite, where can you go to get a scent that emanates as a second skin that only you could have imagined? Point & click Essence of Vali for an affordable spring fling with the tart zing of Grapefruit, a silkened Cedarwood or the tropical flourish of Ylang Ylang. In one oil? In all three?
Yes, Essence of Vali makes it easy to introduce the concept of layering your wardrobe of oils to give you something new to wear everyday. So, if you still haven’t found the perfect body oil with its perfect sink-in texture leaving that oh-so perfect scent you crave, here’s a threesome to begin with that bring a combination of surprisingly graceful and sleek oils with characteristic essences and dimension when blended in the perfect balance and scent symmetry just the way you like it.
Refresh is a perfectly pleasant zest of Lemon, Orange and Grapefruit Peel. A citrus lover’s energizing dream, actually without stirring up any boredom. The opening is tart and green, but compelling on its own. Fortify, in contrast, brings the delicate sweetness of Rosewood, while Cedarwood surfaces from within with a softly woody punctuated with Spruce Needles, which aren’t sharp. Just modest to the scent. And, Sleep brings the ever favourite Lavender set against a plush Ylang Ylang and Marjoram Leaves.
Too much fun is to be had with layering these innumerable variations all blended using 100% Golden Jojoba, especially if you've been hit with Lavender fatigue. The scents are likely to sweep spring tidings into nostalgia as the essentials and basic with their fuss-free feelings of clean, classic scents, while the oils are lightweight (try mixing up a batch for hair) and project a blissful sense of whimsy.
Isn’t that what spring should be about?
Price: $
Scent Classification: Citrus, Woody, Floral
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (2/10)
The list of reasons why I love Comfrey Solution Botanique ($90) by In Fiore are many and miscellaneous – the oil is bottled up in company’s the signature burgundy flacon; you can smell the coniferous Comfrey by sniffing at the cap before opening; it’s not Lavender; it reminds you of some medicinal treatment you can trust to work; and well, it’s by In Fiore, so you know you'll be getting som up street luxury without a doubt. Comfrey plant's roots and leaves (which blossom in a rosette pattern) are prized for their ancient medicinal properties, such as anti-inflammatory components used to allay skin wounds and irritation. As such, Comfrey Solution Botanique is part of In Fiore launch of new body care, which bridges medicinal essences with intense weeks-on-end infusions to get the immune system going.
Results of Comfrey’s wound healing work have been published in the “British Medical Journal” as early as 1912, though Catholic monks (who were considered the primary healers of their day) were known to harvest & infuse the herb as a cleansing agent long before systematic record keeping gave it some respect. Scientists later uncovered that Comfrey contains allantoin, a chemical that protects the skin and promotes new skin cell growth and is said to help ‘knit’ cells back together after a laceration or abrasion. Think sunburns or shaving nicks here.
In Fiore’s modern day yet organically cultivated Comfrey is deeply infused within cold-pressed, thinly textured Grapeseed Oil. It’s actually weeks later that wild harvested Nettle Leaves (rich in phenolic acid) are added to further the healing process. With Avocado, Jojoba Seed, Vitamin E carriers interspersed between flutters of Lavender Flower, Frankincense, Neroli and Helichrysum Flower essences, the result is something quite ebullient in proportion. And, that is because…well, it’s not just Lavender.
The essences melt beautifully onto skin, even if distressed from within. I religiously took along the bottle with me to my thrice-a-week physical therapy sessions (I was rear-ended viciously back in Dec), as why have the PT use some of her banal, mineral oil based crap, when I could let the sore muscles satiate themselves with something a bit more contrasting in nature. As my PT’s frail fingers dug deep into my tightened fibers, the tension did seem to meld away with Comfrey on her fingertips. And, it’s not the quiet kind, either. Let’s just say, patients from beyond the curtain were asking the staff what characteristically alluring scent was that and where was it coming from?
It was from this bottle of relief enveloping my tired back with hints of a cool, gracefully earthy edge. The fizz of Neroli adds a sweetened touch to the composition, but one that is so gentle in its accent, I’d suspect only a seasoned nose would find its peek-a-boo twist. Even the conventional bands of Lavender seems spruced up in freshness, as it’s nicely congruous with Comfrey’s intriguing wooden silkiness bringing a sort of unapologetic androgynous bent to the wholly folkloric blend. Yes, men may very well find this ultra-inviting, as well.
The body oil is In Fiore’s first hurrah at fusing the studious interplay of medicine-like oils in a crisp, formal balance. You haven’t tried anything quite like this perfect tribute to Comfrey, so if you’re ready to move beyond the banalities of Lavender, the retro spirit of this futuristic oil is just what the doctor would order. Well, one from yesteryear, at least.
Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Sharp Herbaceous
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (2/10)
What face oil is a major staple behind the runways? Did you think a face oil could or would be? Absolutely. Sunday Riley Juno Transformative Lipid Serum ($125) is the ultra-luxe one wowing audiences and skin care mavens alike. Because a model’s face gets washed at least 40 times a day during Fashion Week, makeup artist/co-founder of the brand Diane Kendal prefers to use Juno on the dewy skins seen at Jason Wu’s line up before applying make-up.
It’s quite a surprise to see skincare making buzz behind the scenes as we too often see & read about what beauty brands are going to bring some new dolly pop of colour or wash of neutrality charging down the catwalk. Add the stress of tailing travel with bitter heat and cold thrashings on to delicate, overwashed faces, and Riley says, “There are cracks in their skin. When you add layers of makeup on top, bacteria can get in there and cause breakouts.” And, you think the fashion crowd freaked out? I’m happy to report that no one broke out!
"I love it. It sinks into the skin and leaves it with a really good texture," she says.It’s not such an outlandish idea to have an oil serum fix it all. It’s just so fab, fab to see mainstream designers appreciating the 99% pure blend of active ingredients found in Juno’s roster of oils. I’m quite smitten with the clean, minimalist line of skincare from Sunday Riley. Though I’m trying to amble my way down to my local Barneys (since they never answer the phone - lame) to snag a gloss and even a blush with my usual fangirlish squeal over uncovering this cultish brand, I’d say Juno has got the conviction and rigor of a luxury face oil that you ought to try at least once.
Ok, so you’ve got the merits of Argan down. But, the star oil here isn’t just that. It’s Acai Seed Oil, which brings its proven antioxidative capabilities. Oil expressed from the Acai berry, it’s extraordinarily high in antioxidants, anthocyanins, vitamins (Vitamin C, B1, B2, B3) and minerals (iron, potassium and calcium). Acai berries also have high levels of Omega 3 and 6 fats, which reduce skin inflammation; monounsaturated oleic acid, which helps skin absorb oil; up to 19 different amino acids, which are essential for quick and healthy cell turnover.
Offering you deeper nourishment, the breadth of the oil draws on an organic base with Black Cumin Seed, Blackberry Seed, Blueberry Seed, Broccoli Seed, Carrot Seed, Chardonnay Grape Seed, Cranberry Seed, Marula, Meadowfoam Seed, Pomegranate Seed and Red Raspberry Seed oils seamlessly blended into a clear, amber elixir decadent to the touch. Broccoli Seed is another rarely seen skin hero. Broccoli is bursting with the chemical compound sulforaphane (a cancer protective agent in cruciferous veggies), which stimulates the skin's self-defense mechanisms & amps up skin’s response to free radical pests like UV rays and pollutants.
Riley’s oil feels snug and intimate on skin, dewy to the touch. And, being a rare dry oil for the face, it absorbs within seconds. No essentials? No. The serum doesn’t smell fruity or floral, actually. Rather, the scent is that of mellowing toasted cumin – elegant, almost peppered, but fleeting at best. It’s shy, darkly enchanting & mystical, really. Riley’s instant hydration on the runway does indicate a sympathetic trend...oh heck, a minor revolution of sorts towards face oils and inspiring make up mavens to learn more about how face oils do indeed work well with cosmetics, even in the presence of glaring bulbs & flashes. Even at the luxury price tag, you can expect the treatment to last you at least 3-4 months if a pump a day is all you use. Juno is a modern, unfussy serum made graceful, albeit a bit tricked up.
Thank you Sunday for lending credence to the sophistication of oils on the main stage.
Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Woody
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (2/10)
Each oil starts somewhere – a carrier to correct, a botanical to relax, or a composition to scent. If I were to reset the blog and start with basics, my first post would have been the holy grail of oils, the 14-time award winning, certifiably tested Trilogy Organic Rosehip Oil ($24).
The fix-it-all elixir has earned its prime spot among organic fiends and huile lovers alike for its simplicity. Frankly, the only thing you’ll find bottled up is 100% organic Rosehip oil. No scented essences to tickle and no Vitamin E to preserve. And, that’s because the antioxidant rich oil is heavy with Vitamins A & E, which both help to fight free radical damage, promote new cell growth, improve skin elasticity, regenerate skin cells, slow down premature aging, reduce the formation of wrinkles, and reduce scarring. The voluptuous Rosehip is also comprised of an exceptionally high amount of Linoleic (47%) and Linolenic (33%) essential fatty acids, supporting the skin’s elasticity and keeping it well-hydrated. And, if you’re one to question a brand's 'clinical' claims (Trilogy's results have the proven science behind them, by the way), than this study will offers ample proof for the merits of natural Vitamin A, which has proven to act much like the veritable skin-hero retinol (which is an anti-aging must) without the secondary effects of irritation. Of course, consistently is key.
The oil is the epitome of how a natural element brings an airy lightness to skin. It smells of nothing and blends into skin’s contours on the spot, which makes it ideal to use on its own or mixed with your favourite cream. It's even light enough to use as an under eye serum. Purists will take to heart not only the radically simplified formulation (surely not to irritate even the most sensitive of skins), but also the organic spirit with which Trilogy harvests the oil from the mountainous regions of Chile.
Luminous in its bare simplicity & freshness, Trilogy offers the perfect starter oil for anyone looking to try to quench thirsty skin.
Price: $$
Scent Classification: None
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (1/10)
You will with Jiva Apoha Atman Body Oil ($105), an exciting, summer-hardy body oil that uses freshly harvested essences from herbal farms in India, South America, and even here in the good ole US of A. Nothing synthetic comes near the gracefully serene amber bottles of Jiva Apoha. Jiva means ‘soul’ while Apoha means ‘healing’ and their nexus is where the timeless positivist philosophies of Ayurveda and Shamanism meet to seduce organic connoisseurs in search for more than just a skin revitalizer. No, Jiva Apoha’s cult brand evangelists want to feel the oil like a current of energy running through their innards. Atman (which means 'spirit' in Sanskrit) is sprightly verdant elixir thanks to the scattering of an earthy Tulsi throughout all natural Sesame and Sunflower carriers. Balanced and understated, the pleasant prelude of Tulsi is rounded out with a creamy, near opaque Sandalwood, which doesn’t render the scent obviously brooding as you’d expect. Frankincense and Palo Santo essences form the heart, while a radiant Neroli peeks through when blended finely into skin. Among the usual iterations of Sandalwood, Atman does show some interesting facets with the essentials as it ends radiantly fresh on skin.
Tulsi (which means ‘the incomparable one’) is a potent aromatic herb used extensively both in Ayurvedic clinical and folk medicine. Notorious, it’s considered a purifier of the mind, body, and spirit and has a special place in Hindu courtyards across India, where it is planted for its auspicious and protective powers. Its quasi-legendary blend of medicinal and fragrant qualities have warranted the title “Elixir of Life” namely for its signature sharp, fresh herbaceous-minty scent that sometimes has a licorice-like undernotes. Tulsi is also a natural anti-bacterial. In a body oil, this would help ease the spread of break-outs, particularly if acne on the arms or back is an issue. This is why Tulsi pairs well with Sesame Seed oil, which is rich in antioxidants, thus it pulls toxins from your skin. Sesame Seed oil can help prevent blackheads, clear the skin of pimples, and even fade dark spots left behind by wayward zits. According to the "Gale Encyclopedia of Alternative Medicine," Sesame Seed oil nourishes dry or otherwise irritated skin and is especially helpful on sunburned or wind-damaged skin, too.
Atman evokes a lovely, sueded sensation of satin on skin. The perk of Neroli is underplayed in this oil, giving citrus and floral fans a different sort of metaphysical experience with Sandalwood. Healing and transformative, the visceral elements allow you to feel the beautiful richness of both spiritual traditions without feeling like you’ve overdosed on the usual overhyped innuendos that comes with the commercialization of either school of holistic thought. Jiva Apoha gives us a nice alternative esthetic to the conventions of modern aromatherapy, which will surprise you in a good way. Provocative, but good.
Atman is actually tranquil in its realm with its extravagant oils yet humble sankalpa...which means intent.
Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Herbaceous; Woody
Viscosity: Light viscosity (3/10)
“IS there is a chicken here somewhere?”
Black Chicken Remedies. I know. I’m thinking the same thing. What kind of cutesy brand is that with such an impish wit luring you in with some curious wonder? Cute as can be (maybe too cute), the brand from Bondi (a bustling sun n’ surf town edging on a hot, flat stretch of Australia) is home to 100% natural treatments made free from parabens, petrochemicals, and artificial fragrances inspired by ancient crone.
The brand, yes, is inspired by the mystic legend of some groovy black chicken, who was known for her (of course, it’s a hen – for beauty!) healing and transformative prowess. Myth or not, it’s still an adorably cute backgrounder with a name to make you giggle every time you go to pump the Love Your Body Oil (A$69). The brand doesn’t speak with superlatives beyond this. Housed inside the sleek, aluminum bottle with a much appreciated pump is a lightweight elixir with an alluring deck of delicate essences. Avocado, Rosehip, Hazelnut, and Coconut carriers rest together in a moisturizing base. I always love the fat-fest that Avocado for brings in addition to vitamins A, B1, B2, D, E, and Beta Carotene that skin loves to sop up on sight. And, that it does. Researchers have found that Beta Carotene suppresses some serious UV damaging enzymes, which lead to premature aging. Hazelnut helps add in a touch of astringency to tighten slacking skin where you least expect to see it. Taken all together, the oil sinks right away, making you look twice to see where you slathered a second ago.
The tantalizing composition of essences shows us exactly why we see such a fondness for oils here & abroad. Cool notes of Lavender play alongside Sandalwood expressing a subtle wildness waiting to come forth. The scent settles into a palpable Geranium and Patchouli base that lasts with a slight dryness that is toned sweetly with Ylang Ylang. For the daily stresses at the office, this is that perfect vignette of calmness to keep desk side for use on temples to unfurl unwanted tension.
In the body oil’s kitsch cohort, the same Ylang Ylang and Sandalwood turns the Love Your Face Serum (A$79) into a velvety treatment. The warm embrace of both essentials beautifully balance an exquisite Rose Maroc while suffusing essences of Neroli and Palma Rosa into a soft, dewy touch. Given the essential consistency here, skin’s hissy fit is given a therapeutic boost with Apricot Kernel, Argan, Jojoba, Evening Primrose, and Rosehip working synergistically to detoxify and beautify while enhancing resilience in just a few days. The serum will resonate with most because it’s a pretty scent with an equally lightweight feel that doesn’t resort to the clichés of Rose, which some of you may fear…ahem, Carrie.
Kittenishly clever in name, sweetly serene on skin, Black Chicken (just try not to smile when saying this aloud) is well worth the effort to order from down under. And, to make it worth your while (shipping from Australia is only $10), Black Chicken is offering you, my dear readers, a complimentary full sized jar of their forthcoming release, Love Your Body Polish ($24.95), made with Himalayan Pink Salt suspended within the same 12 natural oils from the body treatment. Just in time for spring’s strappy sandals and dresses, the scrub will help neglected areas feel smooth and primed for the affection of nourishing oils.
From now ‘til April 20, enter code: newskin with your purchase of either utterly lovely face or body oil….or both.
Oh, and did I mention the sweet, chipper brand is 100% vegetarian? Go figure.
Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Soft floral
Texture: Light viscosity (2/10)