When Jennifer Aniston proudly proclaimed how she’s in love with her laser peels, a collective sigh fell across beauty blogosphere because we were relieved to hear her finally 'fess up about how her gently tanned & pristine skin wasn’t a result of her much ballyhooed dedication to her yoga regime. It was...well, simply put...paid for. Cattiness aside, let’s get real here.

Trying to de-stress and keeping naturally healthy skin glowing in our post 30s can be a struggle, especially when those first few, fine lines creep up without notice. Science has reminded us over & over again how cell turnover slows down as we age, which means beauty mavens (like yours truly) opt for the occasional skin sizzling peels to keep top layers looking fresh. I’m not in search of some elusive, gravity-defying peel. I mean I’ll always shy away from any poke n’ prod Botoxing and fear the goopy fillers, but still insist on using a chemically light post-peel cream once I've dropped a wad at my derm's office. Hypocritical? Perhaps, I know. But, the high-brow audience gets this. Moving on…

Most derms will do one of two thing: 1) Send you home with a tube of Aquaphor to seal skin & moisture from atop; 2) try to upsell you on same skin saving serum that’s created for post-chemical procedures. I chose neither. I’m sure you’ve figured out where this is going. And, yes it is – going towards the almighty Argan. I first realized professionals were recommending Argan as the choice of treatment after a peel when the pro’s behind Makeup Artist’s Choice highly recommended only Argan oil after all of their peels. And, so I was armed for my two-part Cosmelan treatment with Kahina Serum ($90) to reduce any redness, minimize inflammation, and get rid of flakes on spot.

Sheepishly, I was stuck indoors the day after the peel, as my face was lobster red. Not poofy, not sore, and not crusty though I'll spare you the nitty-gritty pics. Let's just say skin just looked like I had spent a whole day at Malibu beach without any requisite slapdash of sun protection over my quick-to-burn olive toned face. While skin’s texture definitely had a toned freshness, it was definitely tight & dehydrated taking crepiness up to the eyes. Kahina’s Serum was godsend as this is the time you'll seek out the purest of oils & essences to moisturize. To prep for what I assumed to be was days of reptilian shedding, I pumped the serum onto face morning, afternoon and evening. And, guess what? I barely shed a flake or two. Kahina’s Serum effortlessly combated the severe yet inevitable depletion of moisture all through the day and night.

So what I have here is a serum – softer than silk - which melted into skin helping the rejuvenation process along. Argan is further boosted with organic Coffee, Carrot Seed & Sunflower Seed oils blended with Pomegranate Seed, Rosemary Leaf, and Seabuckthorn Fruit extracts. Nearly 98.8% of the bioactive ingredients are derived from organic farming. Coffee Seed and Pom seeds bring the antioxidants while Seabuckthorn brings skin brightening doses vitamin C and folic acid. And, nothing quite like the bountiful doses of Vitamin E from all of the carriers to nurture skin back to its balanced state. Reaching in deeper into skin is the Rosemary extract. The herby wonder is highly rich (up to 90%) in antioxidants, which prevents new spots from developing by fighting oxidation. A delicate floral scent helps the ridiculous trauma I put my poor skin through. The pairing of Lavender and Roman Chamomile truly shines in this serum, while the muted Neroli and Ylang Ylang lend their usual charm in the backdrop. The crisp, refreshing scent does have the teensiest bit of warmth with Myrrh, which suits the sheer floral notes. In other words, it’s a pretty oil to use when you’ve paid for some overzealous scruffing.

The hallmark signs of a deeper exfoliation - redness, irritation and inflammation - were long gone within 24 hours. A happy turning point came 48 hours later when skin regained its translucency & radiance without any snags or flakes. While I don’t miss the deep purr of a microderm session, I will say this peel was well worth the down time. I was ecstatic over the results. But, what I will never do is use an old-school Aquaphor (made up of 41% petrolatum) to simply seal off skin while it heals underneath. Kahina proves its merit by bounds as the choice of serum for any gal considering a form of derm maintenance that, today, has almost become de rigueur. Whether you admit it or not.

Skip the sticky goop in favour of this gauzy serum - slick, satiny, and a perfectly potent antidote to the harshness of peeling. There really should be no other choice for post-peeled skin when it aspires to something a bit extraordinary.

For the past several years, beauty brands – niche & luxury – have been striking gold with ancillary body oils. Argan, responsible for getting the masses behind the use of oil for face and the bod, is the leading kingpin in this tightly knot collective of organic ingredients. Not surprising as one of the leading trends in skin care is for brands to introduce whole-wellness body products to flank their hero star ones. So, it was a real treat to be given* a tub of Argan Balm ($42) by Josie Maran.

Maran’s venture into body care makes sense. Sometimes an oil doesn’t cut it. Wintery winds or dehydrating derm treatments sometimes call for something a bit more dense, more plush, and more healing. Your body may be at rest while you sleep, but your skin is working hard to repair itself from sun and environmental damage. Which is why a multitasking miracle in a tub is what you need. Maran sticks to bare basics with Argan at the core of the treatment, with Shea Butter, natural Beeswax, Calendelilla and Carnuaba waxes for structural support. Temporal fluid lines of Crambe Abyssinica Seed, Jojoba, Avocado, Olive Fruit, and Coconut oils are tendered blended between melts of Mowrah and Mango Seed butters. Mowrah differs from Shea in that is lends dried skin some flexibility while reducing degeneration of skin while simultaneously nourishing dehydration. And, Crambe Abyssinica Seed oil is a botanical conditioning agent. Right here, these two rare seen ingredients give the supple balm its tender uniqueness.

You know me. You know I’ll gripe about the scent if it’s not wafting from the tin packaging seconds from opening. While this metallic tub doesn’t dare to go above a whisper with the Tiare extracts, I’m always relieved to see the essences used were natural, not synthetic. Of course, I wished for the angelic allure of Gardenia to sing its venerable graces with a soft, tranquil hum. But, better for sensitive skins, who may not appreciate the wonder balm being scented, as you can use this baby anywhere. I mean, everywhere. Tame furry brows, slick frizzy flyaways, and massage in craggly cuticles. It’s a bit stiff at first open, but dig deep to get a chuck out and watch it spread with ease.

In short, it’s a multisensory delight with low maintenance frills that may just save you a few bucks as you’ll drop the need for hand creams & lip balms.

Price: $$$
Scent Classification: None
Texture: Stiff salve
*My warmest thanks to Annie for sharing this balm through the most unusual, but highly appreciated of ways. 

I’ve been living high on Jojoba lately.

I’m in love with it. Granted, it is not as ubiquitous mineral oil. It’s not the most sophisticated oil, but only because we’ve seen the name, the carrier more often than any other. It’s the golden standard for skincare. And, before you laugh, I’m going to ask it again - why more cosmetic firms don’t skip over the mineral for Jojoba stokes my fire, but again, costs always come first. Not with Suki, a firmly rooted, quietly popular brand at Saffron Rouge. The Pure Facial Moisture ($32.95), which comes in two varying formulations for oily & dry skin types, takes Jojoba to the center stage on skin.

Acne.org states that it is thought that using Jojoba regulates oily skin by making the skin think that it has already produced enough oil. Jojoba can also be used as a spot treatment for acne. According to one pharmacological study, jojoba oil has proven anti-inflammatory properties, which is helpful for inflammatory conditions such as acne. But, dry skins equally love its ease of penetration since Jojoba’s structure is so similar to that of your own slimy sebum. It’s a lightweight oil, no argument there. Which is why you might just like Suki’s face oils for daily wear under make-up. While both also contain Sunflower, Grapeseed and Rice Bran carriers and hefty doses of non-GMO Vitamin E weaved between the fluid lines of Jojoba, the two oils differ in intent from here onwards.

The first is the Balancing blend: a deliciously skin-smacking treatment with Calendula, Lavender, Chamomile, & Echinacea extracts. The scent isn’t nuanced, but rather brings a soft character to the oil. Unusual yet quite elegant, the Chamomile gives a fresh, herbsy twist to the otherwise calming blend, keeping the oil feeling airy & translucent. Lavender fans will undoubtedly want more of a camphoric herb, so bewarned. Borage Seed & Hazelnut and even the Echinacea work synergistically to keep acne or even mild, monthly break-outs in check, as they work to calm the inflammation down before or after an unwanted eruption. Once applied, it sinks straight away and leaves no trace of shine (dare I say, a matte finish?), though surprisingly I find the scent is quite snappy and stays put longer than expected.

In contrast is the Nourishing elixir: a congruous marriage between a subtle Sandalwood & a medicinal Myrrh. Both are equally balanced and serve as a splendid example of how warm essentials still may come across as fragile in a blend. There’s still Calendula & Lavender anchoring the lead essences and just enough to amplify the earthiness of the oil. It’s a predictable, safe core of essences with a sophisticated mildness, which makes it easy for newbies to try. The treatment is also perfect enough for dehydrated skins needing to boost their lotions or for dry skins needing that perfectly viscous oil to blend in without waiting. Rosehip helps fade away spots, while Apricot Kernel helps bring erase away aging signs with its GLA-rich structure.

I always marvel at the simple ingenuity of Suki because despite the seemingly normal price point, I always feel like I’m getting some serious exhalations of hand plucked essences from every bottle without fail. And, seeing how fresh the essentials smell & feel on skin, you kind of wonder about some of those over-priced serums and ask just how effective they can be? Radiant & luxurious, 100% vegan and organic, there’s always a certain sparkle with everything the brand does, even with the oldfangled Jojoba. For those considering going down the organic or those with sensitive skins fearing how essentials make react, I’d say Suki – the vanguard of young, natural, enthralling essences - is pure optimism for your skin’s health & the best place to start.


Price: $$
Scent Classification: Green, Herbaceous
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (2/10)

If I can say, Tammy Fender is a brand synonymous with “modern organic"– classical essentials reassembled into ultra-luxe balms & oils. They seem to have an illuminating feel about them, considering any one product doesn’t have just a handful of essential oils blended quiet simply into a chosen carrier. Rather, hers are thoughtful, sophisticated treatments that leave you with a sigh of wonderment. “I mean how can natural smell and feel so good?”

It can because there’s something quite ethereal about her products that don’t take form in some sort of textbook fashion. Nor, do they come off like some homely kitchen experiment that happens to create a lot of hullaballoo, but may sometimes be difficult to replicate. Quite the contrary. For example, the Antioxidant Crème – Neroli & Orange ($95) is a plush, comforting moisturizer that lends unexpectedly vibrant notes of Neroli and Sweet Orange to skins needing their sebum regulated, scars faded, and elasticity improved.

The gel-like cream offers a demonstrated willingness to go deeper than its essences and nourish dehydrated and imbalanced skin types with a veritable roster of oils and butters. And, Neroli, of course. Did you know the name Neroli originates from the Italian Princess Anna Maria de la Tremoille, who introduced this precious essential oil to Italian aristocrats in the 17th century for its ability to rejuvenate the skin?

There’s an exquisite feeling in this balm. The crisp coolness of Lavender Flower extracts is flanked by Calendula and Hibiscus Sabdariffa (Roselle), which provides the perfect segue into a voluptuous heart. Deep within the folds of the Avocado, Sunflower Seed Rosehip Seed, Wheat Germ and Grapeseed oils are Algae extracts, which are known for its powerful ability to retain moisture. As cosmetic ingredients go, it’s thought that Algae works by helping skin maintain its youthful appearance by inhibiting the development of the enzyme collagenase, which causes the degradation of collagen. Therefore, it actually prevents further breakdown of collagen, which naturally leads to increased quantities of collagen inside your skin. And, the face cream doesn’t have a scant amount of it, as Algae is listed early in the roster of botanic goods. Hydrolyzed proteins & Squalane help boost skin’s plumping action while Shea Butter brings a creamy emolliency to the formula.

There’s a painterly precision with the seamless fusions of Neroli, Sweet Orange and even Rosemary. With the growing obsessive interest over oils, enthusiasts will develop a quick fondness for this balm. The balm’s botanic qualities emerge warmly as the sparkling citruses work in unison with a softened astringency to tighten up pores. A fresh cut Rosemary does bring a pinchy, leafy quality, but not enough to say the result is green by any means. The cream-gel texture boosts moisture levels for an all-day glow and can easily be used underneath your SPFs. Fender fans swear by the moisture boost when traveling in stuffy air cabins. Even after a few hours of use, skin feels plumped from within.

The exacting pedigree of aesthetic skin care that Fender brings to her line to cheerfully delight skin is calibrated yet tactile. A cut above those who claim to be of the same ilk, really. You seriously need to try this stuff to know what I’m talking about.


Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Citrus
Texture: Cream-gel

When it comes to oils, huile aficionados are a dedicated lot. They know Lavender blends well with almost anything. They are finicky about Sandalwood, synthetic or not. And, enthusiasts are open to trying rare oil as long as the sassy ingredient delivers as good as it’s know to give. Mango is one such essence that’s a rare thing to see in body or face oils.

And, I’m not sure why.

To date, I haven’t covered a sole body oil with Mango at its core. Mango Seed Butter occasionally pops in a balm here or there. Which makes  Klorane’s Mango Oil Spray ($14) a fine, but rare rendition of what usually ends up so often being a greasy hair disaster. And, that’s because this treatment spray is designed to leave in damp or even on dry hair. Which means, at first glance, some of you may wince at such a thought. Leave oil in hair when it’s dry?

Absolutely. And, you can do this because Mango oil has a nice, fluid consistency. Mango oil is fraction obtained during the processing of mango butter. It’s sometimes semi-solid at room temp on its own, but when blended with Palm oil it penetrates into the hair shaft to work on preventing split, frayed ends. Palm oil contains those hard to find toctrienols, which are members of the Vitamin E family. The common form of Vitamin E (tocopherols) works as a strong antioxidant that helps the skin to fight free radicals that damage the skin and cause fine lines and wrinkles. Dr. Betty Kamen, PhD gives further proof that as a stronger antioxidant than tocopherols, toctrienols have been proven to be more effective in preventing aging and damage from free radicals. Used topically, toctrienols are able to penetrate deep into the skin's layers to enable healing & protection from the base up. Palm oil is a wonderfully light, non-greasy oil that also contains high amounts of glycerides - a natural conditioner that imparts incredible softness to our hair. When paired together, you've got one juicy hair treatment that you can use when slicking hair back in a trendy ponytail or loosely wrapped chignon.

Klorane’s branding sparks its passion by focusing on plant-based ingredients from fields & farms they actually harvest & monitor before extracting from them these precious oils. For this spray, Klorane actually uses an Indian grown mango, which was selected for its smug concentrations of EFAs. The flush spray is vegan and hypoallergenic, even though it’s not entirely organic. When sprayed on lifeless locks, they get a weightless shine. Frizzies also get flattened without the use of any drying hair product that just brings build up for you to strip away with a clarifying shampoo. Dampened tresses (that's how I sprayed the oil) are nourished, moisturized and strengthened instantly, but just after 3 days of disciplined use to style my ponytails, hair feels noticeably softer & agile. Scentwise, you’ll like the translucent sweetness of Mango. It’s not aggressive, but affable and soft. You’ll be lucky to catch a whiff of it, really, as it’s simply quiet behind the curative powers of the oil.

If you wanna score a freebie, hop over to Allure.com, which is actually offering the full sized bottle to the first 500 readers who click on April 5. Otherwise, the spray launches in May on Klorane's official site.

Price: $
Scent Classification: Fruity
Viscosity: Ultralight viscosity (1/10)

It’s a smashing second act for L'Artisan Parfumeur. For a brand that has got fiendishly cult followers, L'Artisan’s foray into body oils is surely going to garner the same despite the stratospherically priced treatments. But, unlike other so-called luxury brands, which opt to mix a slivers of parfum with mineral oil, L'Artisan actually works to create their line of dry body oils with wholesome carriers that you’ve come to know & love. And, their scent-inspired oils aren’t for the dull and unimaginative. In other words, don’t expect Lavender any of renditions of it with L'Artisan. The Premier Figuier Dry Body Oil ($70) is one such example of how a fragrance translates irresistibly well from its signature scent.

The award winning Premier Figuier, created by Olivia Giacobetti, was the first perfume ever to have been constructed around the fig. Its green freshness, Sandalwood notes and subtle complexity had earned its laurels among top tier scent bloggers. But, more than its grasping popularity, the scent and even the brand serves as a reminder of how true luxury brands still are mistakably late to the game of introducing ancillary oils to complement fragrances and enhance the harmonizing experience naturally and intuitively. It’s why I am completely smitten by L'Artisan. It’s taking fine huilery nearly to the heights of scent making, which is a progressive art in itself. Very few brands or even artists extend this courtesy to making a fine oil. To most, an oil is just well...an oil. But, to a few, a well-blended oil is so much more. The sensation and scent combined triumph over any measly ‘mix & blend’ bottles. Premier Figuier Dry Body Oil definitely stands apart from the cut.

The pleasure of Fractionated Coconut & Sunflower Seed oils are blended with the politesse of natural Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit extracts. Also known as the Prickly Pear, the antioxidant, Vitamin C, and phyto-rich helps ward off free radical damage while whisking away telltale signs of sun damage. A study in the August 2004 "Journal of Clinical Nutrition" reported on a comparison between plain ole’ Vitamin C and Prickly Pear Fruit to see if there were differences in antioxidant potency. Although both decreased oxidative damage to lipids and improved antioxidant status in healthy humans, only the Prickly Pear fruit significantly affected body oxidative stress. The extracts coupled with the Vitamin E enriched Sunflower Seed carrier shows us how the dry oil is delicately in harmony with nature and the environment.

Less flamboyant is the scent. It’s the un-green green scent. It’s the green freshness you want when grass labeled scents don’t cut it. Premier Figuier surprises you from the get go as most people may think of a fig-scented anything as being close to a Fig Newton. You can drop the naïveté before reading forward. There’s a pretty big mystique in capturing the fanciful fig and bottling it as a scented oil. For once, here’s a scent that brings the sweetness of wood with a warmly rounded out fullness of a leafy Fig. This is slightly cut by slivers of Almond, though barely detectable behind the honeyed smolder of Sandalwood and changeful twists of Coconut. With a tender verdancy, the velvety oil is fully sophisticated in its botanic glory, suggesting an airy character at its core. It's aqueous, refreshing, and almost unisex in sorts, but never banal. Quite frankly, the dry oil doesn’t thoroughly highlight Fig’s gamine aromatic beauty, which is why if you love this scent (or any scent for that matter), layering the fragrance with this body oil will allow the comforting depth & complexity to realize wholly making the end result a fun discovery. With both, you can bring the ethos of summer fun with you wherever you wish with Premier Figuier’s maddening but delightful penchant for changing to your skin’s essence. Works equally when layered over Vanilla scents, too.

Why more brands don’t follow the intuitive brilliance of L'Artisan Parfumeur is beyond me.

Price: $$$$
Scent Classification: Green, Woody
Viscosity: Slightly viscous (4/10)

The Daily Revitalizing Concentrate ($45.95) is a saucy rebuke to the bottle dropper. Some face oils come with a dropper, that unwittingly make break apart. Others come with a wide pour bottle, leaving you with fingers full of grease. Pomega5 made sure hurried women in the morning wouldn’t have to worry about either mishap. Clever in size, each precious drop of supercharged oils in encapsulated within a pearl-like ampoule. Each one promises to contain up to 60% of Omega 5 to allure skin’s sense to tighten up.

The Omega 5 essential fatty acid is what the brand is named after. It’s a rare EFA obtained from the seed of the pomegranate and the only known botanical form of Punicic Acid, a highly potent antioxidant. Its miniscule molecular size helps the EFA penetrate easily, while getting to work on those nasty free radicals, which break down skin’s vital components – collagen & elastin. What’s interesting is how Pomegranate Seed oil is an ultra sensitive molecule. The folks behind the brand actually tested 14 different varieties from around the world prior to selecting the current, cold-pressed organic source of oil, which they pledge brings your skin the highest grade found thanks to its exceptional Punicic Acid content and natural source vitamins B1, B2, C, potassium, and magnesium.

Pomegranate Seed, Jojoba, Calendula, & Rosehip oils create a potent cocktail of anti-aging, collagen rebuilders. You’ll want to twist off the tiny end of the ampoule (if it doesn’t break off easily, just pop in a pin or needle) and squeeze out the measured dose of oil, perfect to spread over face & under eyes. Leftover droplets can even be used over lips as a treatment. Most capsules you may have seen to date fall with a monumental flatness. And, that’s because they are usually nothing more than those bargain bin Vitamin E bottles you see at CVS. But, here, in addition to the carriers, what’s impressive is how Calendula, Rosewood, Lemon, Verbena, and Grapefruit essences create an aromatic accord that is richer & smoother than could possibly be. The essences are understated never growing strong to overpower each other but teeters between a balanced citrus and mellow herb scent. Unlike opening a bottle of face oil, you won’t smell too much of it, though the calibrated amount of oil does flirt a bit with scattered green notes. It’s quite a pleasant scent with blooms with each spread & develops a transparent sweetness steering clear of any obvious floral overture.

The oil does take a bit to soak in (and, by bit I mean 30-45 seconds, not minutes), but I like that. A viscous oil always feel more like a mask than a serum, which may be preferred at night. Convenience is the plus with this treatment. Perfect to pop some pills for travel or even when going to the gym. Recently, I tested a dense face oil before lingering in the sauna and came out with some pretty glorious skin as the heat just deepened the penetrative effect. Now, I don’t need to fuss with packing a bottle, as I can slip one of these jewel-like gems into my wallet. And, still keep the currents of bioactive elements preserved. Trust Saffron Rouge to scout out niche brands, one of which brings a fun yet useful versatility to the use of oils. When in capsule form, the oil should prove irresistible.

I’m quite partial to Tangerine.

Its effervescence, its tart bent, and its sometimes green feel. The Sicilian kind if what I often reach for when snacking mid-summer, trying to squint my eyes shut for fear of the wayward squirt. The subject of today's essential oil is the flirtatious zing of Tangerine found in a body oil. A 99.8% organic, lightweight, readily packaged for travel body oil. And, why do these matter? Because Mayron’s Goods Tangerine Massage & Body Oil ($14) was actually created for cranky babies in need  of giving their newly stretched vocal chords some rest. Tangerine is almost same as Mandarin (with the exception that it is more orange in colour) without pips and harvested in a different time of the year than mandarins. Babies will love the essential oil since it's appreciated for its ability to soothe all types of inflammations and hyperactivity in nervous system. It sedates anger and impulsive responses and is even reputed to ease constipation and treats diarrhea, flatulence, rashes, dryness and cracking of skin, and hair issues. In others, Tangerine may very well be a baby’s best friend.

Mayron's Goods isn’t an actualization of some kitchen experimentation that is marketed, but rather is created from solid science to back up the needs of a mother of two. Praised by critics & loved by Moms, the brand is the brainchild of an Emmy winning actress (Melanie Mayron) and her chemist father, who happened to be the former Assistant Director of Pharmaceuticals and Manager of International Pharmaceutical Services at Smith, Kline & French Laboratories (David Mayron). Twelve years ago, Melanie realized very few organic lines existed, let alone any one that created a safe enough diaper cream. No parabens. No sodium lauryl sulfate. No DEA. Just natural, clean brilliant stuff, loaded with essential oils, vitamins, antioxidants and healing ingredients in the aromatherapeutic tradition. And, so was born this out-of-Los Angeles company that brings us baby beauty wares. Mayron’s Tangerine oil l is one spunky oil with a pleasant citrus scent. Now, you know I'd argue while the treatment is safe enough for the little newbies, I’d still say huile aficionados should feel free to reach for the oil, too. It’s abundantly citrus shadowed by delicate Lavender and Calendula. Chamomile helps to imbue the calm quotient, while Rosemary adds a certain rustic herbal depth to the scent. The elusive freshness of the scent does lift the oil of out of the ordinary, but will feel like a second skin with the Sunflower, Jojoba and Aloe Vera oils that deliver the deep moisture. For those who don’t know, the vitamin E rich Aloe Vera oil is made by extracting oil-soluble portions of the Aloe Vera plant and macerating into a light vegetable oil, such as Sunflower.

The oil works even better when paired with the inert Chapstuff ($14), an ingeniously cool balm made from Shea & Cocoa Butters, Beeswax, Soybean, Orange, & Tangerine Oils, Chamomile, Calendula Extracts, Aloe Vera and Vitamin E. It’s a more like a dense salve more than a spreadable balm, which is packed tight in a portable push-up thing-y. What’s really fun is to use the balm over super dry patches on hands & feet at night and drizzle the similarly scented oil (the Chapstuff smells faintly like a chocolate/orange confection thanks to the Cocoa Butter) over and cover with socks. Skin is baby butt smooth the morning after. This deliciously scented salve soothes dry skin, sore lips, cracked cuticles and even sets stray brow hairs in place. I know. I tried.

The Tangerine oils pulls no aggressive punches, which might have been likely considering the allusive tangles of herbs. But, no – it comes across sheer & sparkly with an undeniable charm meant to cootchy cootchy the skin of young & old.

Ingredients are an easy decode for me thanks to my Bachelor’s in Science undergrad degree. Though I hated organic chemistry back then, I can now appreciate the uncanny ability to spot out commonly misnamed chemical offenders when listed under the guise of some pseudo-scientific name. Living Nature (an under the radar brand from New Zealand) takes the guesswork out of aggressively shmoozy ingredients and rather connects essences by a kind of distinct, inimitable organic thread of thought. It’s a brand I’d never heard of before, but one with a philosophy that shares the status & popularity of of eco-smart brands here stateside.

I first came across Living Nature while snooping around Saffron Rouge a few weeks ago while comparing truly diehard organic brands with mainstream ones. How this brand refrains from conventional cornerstones is that the company actually manufactures their products in their own facility located in the Bay of Islands where they follow the quality control immaculately through every step of the process. I kind of like the small, homey feel of the brand since it brings a tradition that venerates fresh essences. It’s quaint & unassuming with an air of luxury. How so? The ingredients are so damn pure, most register between a 0-2 on the Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database. Knee-deep into the springness of skin, I tried the Living Nature Radiance Night Oil ($50), a petite skin recharger that stimulates structural skin cells up to 43% in 72 hours and increases plump collagen. And, it’s made with a Rose scent that is so bracing that you can actually smell it before you even open the bottle.

The face oil is extraordinarily light in texture. For those of you now used to the weight feel on skin, this one will surprise you as it spreads so much more like free-flowing liquid than a viscous oil. Give it about 5 seconds and you’ll see how it absorbs upon spread and leaves no shine behind. To call it an ‘oil’ is actually unfair. The elusiveness freshness of the serum comes from Rosehip Fruit and Jojoba carriers, which leave skin feeling refreshed on the spot. Rosehip oil’s high content of essential unsaturated fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, and linolenic) complement the plentiful amounts of A, a natural constituent similar to Retin-A, but without the negative side effects of drying out skin. Rosehip acts on the epidermis to rev up the regenerative effects as it penetrates the skins upper layers very quickly. It also supports the keratin migration cycle that is responsible for the natural regeneration of skin cells. In a report published in the “Anti-Aging Research Brief,” Rosehip was identified as an effective treatment for skin burns, scars and stretch marks. I’m just as happy to help fade away those dark spots from a volcanic zit. Happy helpings of Vitamin E and Carrot extracts are blended to enhance the effects of the carriers.

And, the smell? The drop-dead gorgeous Rose Damascena note makes an early entry and follows through into the robust base of the oil, which mingles well with lacings of Calendula extracts, creating a somewhat subtle old style vibe that is perfectly complementary to the fair touches of Frankincense. It’s certainly as refined & as elegant as a rarely well done rose fragrance. The oil starts strong but softly purrs to maturity with a pleasant finish for skin that will invite repeat sniffs. It’s a cardinal rose – dusky, brooding, and warm. And…ok fine…purely lush, but with a crisp modern take on its blend, made particularly for those of you who eschew those-granny-esque rose blends. The bottle’s miniature suggests to use it sparingly, but really, 2-3 drops spreads so easily all over face, why not splurge on the slather? Because it’s unreal texture is so light, it wears well under SPF and make-up, if you even use foundation. I didn’t even have to blot after 3 hours of wear with the my powder foundation, thought I don’t mind doing this with plumpier oils. Make this your spring treasure for skin.

Promo Alert: Orders $120 at Saffron Rouge and over receive Suki's Luscious Lips Berry Cream Trio (a $32 value) absolutely free. Enter the code LIPTRIO during checkout.

Saffron Rouge. If anyone should say to you: “Come, let’s shop for the purest & greatest of organic skin care in the marketplace today, irrespective of the USDA seal of approval.” would you refuse so tempting of an invitation? Likely not, if you knew that you could trust the buyers behind Saffron Rouge for sorting through the mass marketed beauty industry to sift out products that actually meet their rigorous organic standards. Natural is not even good enough, as if any product contains any one of their “Black List” ingredients, the site won’t even take a second look. No matter how snazzy the packaging, no matter how may bucks are behind the brand, and no matter what type of PR spin anyone tries to razzle n’ dazzle with. Every brand is personal and particular at Saffron Rouge. And,  Suki Delicate Hydrating Oil ($27.95) is one such example of small, niche brands are prodigally represented to those in the know. You.

I first discovered Suki awhile back when I was researching out true-to-form organic brands for a feature organic story. I mean beyond the 'no petroleum', 'no parabens' smack talk (Suki's packaging actually uses vegetable inks), we wanted the treatments so pure that they seemed to be fresh plucked & bottled with ingredients that rose above the classic calm of Lavender & Vitamin E. Suki fit the bill. And, I’ve now come back to the brand’s salient simplicity in the form of…what else? A body oil. Sensitive skins will adore the delicate blend of organic Sunflower, Grapeseed, Soybean, Rice Bran and Apricot oils in immaculate fashion. The ultralight oil blends on spot while vitamins A and E & copious amounts of essential fatty acids from the Sunflower & Rice Bran carriers help to moisturize, regenerate and condition the skin. The main oils works well for mature, sensitive and dry, damaged skins (think sunburns or even laser treated skin), leaving a second "skin" feeling. xInteresting here is the Rice Bran. Originating in the Japanese culture, one of the highest compliments a Japanese woman can receive is to be called a "nuka bijin" which means "a rice bran beauty." Having smooth healthy skin is due to the Oryzanol (a group of ferulate esters and phytosterols) that actually whitens the skin slightly. As skin is exposed to natural sunlight, Rice Bran reacts as a sunscreen protecting the skin from harmful UVrays. Oryzanol impedes melanin pigmentation by restraining the erythema activity of tyrosinase as it stops the UV rays' transmission at the skin's surface. The well chosen carriers also calmly put all the soft textures of essences into perspective.

Comfrey is the star essence in this superb hydrator, which is an elegantly refined herbal blend with woodsy overtones. For once. I mean sure the oil has an aromatic exactitude, with almost talky touches of Rose Flower, Bergamot, Calendula, Lavender and Chamomile offering a pleasant interlude to the sage-ish unfolding of Arnica. With each passing slather, the florals and citruses impress with a touch of masculinity opening the way for Comfrey’s soft pairing with Virginia Cedarwood. It’s a soaring composition, really. The opening brings a beautifully resounding green-earthy temperament more than a floral one as the Cedarwood rounds out the quiet essences for an airy feel on skin. I quite like how the oil’s unisex scent riffs on a resinous edge – well-honed & stylistic in feel. You’d half expect this curious type of quasi-androgynous sexiness to be qualified as one of those fresh out of the shower ads. It’s that, but better. And, it blends into skin so fast, you'll like twice & ask yourself, did I just put it here?

Suki isn’t a novelty: unlike some of those seasonally popular brands that rotate countertops in the department stores. It commands its due & your attention because of its wholly organic set of ingredients, even if the brand hasn’t paid for the USDA logo. Skin is thoroughly re-energized by the refreshing swath of oils, kinetic in their energy but ironically to soothe & heal. So, the next time an eco-friendly purist asks, “How do you know which organic brands to truly trust to bring the fabulous glow of nature’s awesomeness?” – tell them Saffron Rouge is where to go. The e-tailer has earned its green stripes, for sure.

And, don’t forget to tell them who told you so…

Despite having an enormous, dedicated following, Aftelier Perfumes still stays below the commercialized radar and refuses to promote through the usual phalanx of publicists and their relentless PR pitches. No, if you want to learn about the brand’s well-honed sense of scent hierarchies and blends, you’ll have to go through Mandy herself, a perfume wunderkind of sorts. Which is always a charmed pleasure in itself. Her unpretentious persona belies those commonplace marketing ambitions as Mandy sticks to the core vision of old world luxury – when having something no one else had was what defined the concept. Whatever your choice of splurge on her site – solid perfumes, body oils, or even fresh essences for the kitchen – all are subtly evocative of conscious, utilitarian, or architectural sculptures of sorts bottled up, somehow always mysterious yet friendly. Both her Jasmine Face Elixir with Geranium and Ylang Ylang ($40) & Lavender Face Elixir with Clary Sage and Cistus ($40) continue this tradition without bottling up any overpowering singular essentials but rather curating a well edited and diligently rendered medley of oils. I mean, really, these elixirs can speak to you & skin.

Why choose to review the two together? It was just too hard to choose between the clean, cool, and immensely appealing oils – a luminous Jasmine and the bracing Lavender as the choice of huile. When it comes to Mandy’s ostensibly simple face elixirs created with meticulous care, the composition of the oils may seem more the idea of its maker than the materials. Not so, as these cleanly packaged, playfully decadent folios of pure essences which quite possibly can and will induce a states of aesthetic glee. First off, both medium-bodied serums use Rice Bran, Grapeseed and Rose Hip oils, which brings a bounty of fatty acids and have been shown to help improve skin elasticity, regenerate skin cells, slow down premature aging, reduce the formation of wrinkles, and reduce scarring. Seabuckthorn Berry oil is added amp up these effects, as it’s an unsurpassed natural source of vitamins A and E, carotenes and flavonoids. Seabuckthorn berries are second only to Rose Hips in vitamin C content. They are also rich in several other vitamins, including B1, B2, K and P as well as in more than two dozen microelements. Interesting here is how the fatty acid content of Seabuckthorn Berry Oil is 80 - 95%. In other words, it’s all fat. The good kind, too. Finally, Squalene, nestled smartly between the carriers, makes a point of adding suppleness to skin. From here, it's ladies choice.

The fantasist in me is attracted to the former as the Jasmine develops a beautiful note that takes center stage well into the mid floral notes, eventually dropping back behind the Geranium centerpiece of this oil. It’s quite a voluptuous blend with the exotic sweetness of Ylang Ylang with the essences blended to a flawless execution. Noses with a floral aversion don’t need to fear the opulence of this blend as the scent echoes feminine essences without demanding your attention. In contrast, the Lavender Face Elixir brings a sort of androgynous allure from the freshness of Clary Sage and honeyed fringes of Cistus. It’s a perfectly restrained oil with its sublime release of the herb with surprising depth, measured fougère-esque Lavender notes, and a touch of medicinal whiff the enfolds in between. For herb enthusiasts, you’ll love how Mandy has taken struck a balance between tradition and modern reinterpretation with the classic Lavender, giving the oil a vivacious, aromatic opening. Here’s a tip: layer on thinly and repeat about 20 minutes later for maximum overnight hydration to refresh stale skin. The morning after, skin feels smooth, velvety soft, that leaves make-up flawless from the coffee to cocktail hour.

Impassioned florals & indispensable herbs find their fulsome glory with Mandy. With a creative vision filled with virtually universal praise, Aftelier Perfumes’ serums signals a new reality to the beauty industry how the onetime stalwart face oil is now the mainstream treatment of choice given the particular surge of attention to oils in the media.  She's done Rose, she's done Jasmine, she's done Wild Orange, and she's done Lavender. The very fact that Mandy can achieve a formal beauty with an addictive intensity with the mere drop from any one of these elixirs and market them in the most civilized of fashions (without the requisite chintz & gilt) really speaks to me of her craft ethos.

What's next, Ms. Mandy?

Botanical oils are getting their well-earned due thanks to the revival of such simplicity. Despite its faux-glamorous name, this unassuming hair oil isn't greasy or pretentious like many of its ilk. See, what I love about Philip, a highly respected hair guru from Hollywood, is how he called out what we all wish we could, if we sat in the power chair – how most luxury lines of hair care were predictable formulations of detergent, water, and fragrance. Shampoos were mediocre, while conditioners ‘too waxy and heavy.’ So, he went straight to botanicals & naturally sourced ingredients to formulate what now has become his signature treatment - Philip B Rejuvenating Oil ($30). For anyone who has spent half a lifetime abusing their tendrils with heated tools & more, this restorative botanical blend is modern minimalism at its finest.

Off the dropper, you’ll absolutely adore the startling blend of Ylang Ylang, Lavender, Gardenia with respectable under notes of Spotted Geranium. Nothing is synthetic with this aromascope of elegantly tailored fresh essentials, which really ought to be bottled up as a body oil on its own. The feminine rawness of the Ylang Ylang disappears into a powdery rasp as the Geranium serves as the clincher bringing the teeniest note of wood from within. The exuberant bursts of florals & herb is strongly akin to a softly matured floral fragrance, tempering the line between sexy & aggressive with an abstract flow of essences & their nuanced fragility. One doesn’t float effortlessly over the other, but rather waft in & out of the Olive Fruit, Sesame Seed, Peanut, Sweet Almond, Jojoba, and Walnut carriers. While the top notes top notes evanesce, hair’s roots & body are re-energize by the ultra-lightweight viscosity oil.

Olive oil is the penetrating oil of choice. Penetrating oils are good to treat with particularly before washing hair. Olive oil applied to dry hair before washing will prevent your hair from sopping up a lot of water. This action helps hair control its expansion, which will prevent minor breakage and protein loss which comes from cuticle chipping. See, as you wash hair, it drinks up moisture and releases it, which does cause lifting of the cuticle. As you repeat this action over the course of weeks & months, your cuticles will start to fray apart from the stretching aka hydral fatigue. An oil like Olive has been show to penetrate the shaft & prevent this type of damage (Journal of Cosmetic Science pg 169-184,2001). Even on skin, the oil leaves no shine behind. Walnut oil has been recommended to fight wrinkles since at least the seventeenth century, according to "Dangerous Garden: The Quest for Plants to Change Our Lives." It’s enormously high in linoleic acid and helps to moisturize damaged or dry scalps. And, while this is weaved into a rich base with omega-rich oils, Peanut has its own claim to fame. According to Vasant Lad, author of "The Complete Book of Ayurvedic Home Remedies," a mixture of Peanut oil and lime juice can be applied to the scalp to help stop hair loss in women. Fun fact, I guess. (I'll let you know if this works in about 22 years)

The payoff with drenching your locks for at least 30 minutes with this oil is fuller body and a polished shine without the stodginess of greasy tresses. You can add a few drops to your conditioner, but I find hair oils work their best when left to seep into the strands under the sun or on its own. The treatment washes out in one rinse with my regular Pantene, which is an added bonus, as some of the chemically fluffed up hair masques simply coat the hair and often need a clarifying shampoo to rinse of whatever crap is left clinging for dear life. My fine, wispy strands felt lighter & bouncier the day after coaxing wayward layered sections to fall into place.

Beyond its stellar vitamin rich blend, I’m so smitten with Philip B for sticking to their botanicals guns and creating a venerable brand for the organo-happy set. I’m off to try the shampoo/conditioner from their staggering low-key collection of hair treatments in hopes this multi-tendriled scent will be found elsewhere.