What do cleansing & hydrating have in common? Nothing much at first glance, as they seem to be different functions requiring different products to get the job done. And, done well. But, they do have more in common than you’d think. The wrong cleansers will strip skin of its vital moisture. You know this, since you’ve probably felt the tight cheeks after trying a new glycolic or AHA cleanser at some point or another. And, the wrong balms will just sit atop skin, obnoxiously, refusing to seep in and take pride in some hazy glaze of a spread. The question begs – can a balm do two seemingly disparate things at once? If the balm has got huge dollops of petroleum, than no. If it’s formulated smartly correct, then yes. Stark Skincare Grapefruit Cleanse+Hydrate Balm ($35) executes this simple but arty concept quite nicely.

This isn’t your typical greasy, shows some-serious shine time of a balm. Unprocessed Shea Fruit Butter is what is your hero ingredient – its unsaponifiables and cinnamic esters give the balm its anti-microbial and moisturizing properties and provide light protection against UV rays. The buttery texture is softened out by virgin Coconut, Camellia Seed & Sweet Almond oils while Cocoa Seed & Soybean Butters add a sense of purified & plumped luxury to the formula. While you expect the usual constitution of carriers bring those juicy antioxidants to address signs of weathered skin, the non-GMO Soybean Butter also adds a symbiotic glob of the same and bunches of isoflavones, lecitihin, sterolins, which work on your waning collagen. The 100% plant derived (botanical) ingredients form a frothy balm, which melts into skin with the natural emolliency of Candelilla wax, which is actually therapeutically effective in treating any unexpected inflammations of the skin, including acne.

The absolutely refined balm has an interesting aromatic flush from the White Grapefruit essence with its citrus tang livened up by the bright, herbal accords of Rosemary, which are few & far in between, but present in pinprick proportions. These essentials are under dosed to engage to senses in relaxation making the juice truly aromatherapeutic, as opposed to what could have been a boring iteration of a lemony-smelling butter.

As a cleansing balm, the concept is based on likes dissolve likes. So, you’ll want to massage the balm into hands (warm the balm to tap into the sublimity of the aromas before applying) the balm over make-up full faces to sweep away the day’s gunk n’ grime, which includes those tenacious sunscreens. Stark's Oil Cleansing Method suggests the balm entraps impurities from skin into its dense texture to remove your face full of products efficiently without stripping away moisture, without stimulating the oil glands to go into overdrive, and without disrupting the balance of natural oils needed to support their protective function. Circular motions helps stimulate the underlying muscles, keeping them taut and well…in shape. I tried both removals, with & without water. Without water definitely took off the make-up, though it left behind basically moisturized skin. Because we’ve been trained by overzealous marketers to get that squeaky-clean feeling, rinsing with water definitely does feel cleaner, though re-applying the balm for moisture now seems redundant. Either way, you’ll want to linger over the massaging time to enjoy the full thrush of the semi-woody notes cut through the flanked butters. I’d suspect mature skins, prone to post-cleansing dryness will want to opt for a water-free rinse. Or, if you want to wash your face like the French do. As a basic balm, it layers well over a lightweight facial oil, delivering an enriched mask of natural elements for smoothened skin.

The texture of unrefined Shea Butter is a frequently asked question. Why are some balms smooth & creamy, while others are smooth but grainy? The differences are due to chemical re-structuring, not quality. Simply put – fat microcrystals may formed as a result of daytime heat and then a slow cooling during the overnight hours in the delivery vehicle or any other form of transport. Once cooled off, microcrystals can form adding what we think of as a ‘beady’ texture. Sometimes melting can occur inadvertently during transport, or if left in a hot, sunny location. Jessica Lafleur, founder of Stark Skincare, gives us the deets:


While you certainly can blend out a grainy Shea Butter, Jessica suggests an easy tip to help you get a bump-free butter:


For the record, my little tasteful tub of buttery joy arrived goose-bump free from traveling across the Montreal to Los Angeles. And, I wouldn’t have minded the rougher, mildly exfoliating touch a grainy butter balm brings. Neither should you. After all, maybe you can get yourself a third, useful benefit from this richy multitasker that promises to leave skin with an enduringly silky, sweetly savory finish.

Though we like to think of ourselves as simple folks who appreciate the finer nuances of essential oils & some of those rarer blends (Pear, Fig, & Coffee anyone), there are those occasions we revert to the wholesome, the quasi-elegant, the ever popular Lavender. Ah...when blended on its own, doesn't Lavender bring the right touch of mysticism to skin? I think so... The name is derived from the Latin word 'lavera' which means 'to wash,' which heralds the time when the Romans used Lavender oils frequently in their bathing routines. While there are many mass-produced liner incarnations of the soothing herb, Ole Henriksen’s Lavender Body Oil ($28) is the perfect huile to keep around when tensions run high, stresses run deep, and wallets run tight.

The presentation of a gifted bottle of  Lavender oil will surely delight. But, receiving a bottle of Ole Henrisken's sueded essence (ensconced within Sesame and Sweet Almond oils) and you’ll show an even deeper appreciation for the freshly herbaceous treatment. Let’s face it – synthetics do end up expressing themselves as a pungent, 'laundry dry sheet' scent. These cheap imitators and your skin will smell, well…plastick-y. And, while Lavender isn’t an essential oil that earns its merit due to any blending precision, its fully-developed freshness is what sets respectable body oils apart from tacky copycats. Not to worry here, as Ole Henriksen uses the 100% essential oil that imparts a slightly hypnotic fruity, almost citrus-y Lavender, which calms the fraught nerves & relieves jittery tension often leading to depression, panic, hysteria, nervous exhaustion, headaches, migraines and/or insomnia. And, in recent news, Lavender also brings some serious anti-fungal action. And, don’t say you haven’t experienced any of these life-stopping annoyances. Delicate and transparent, the Lavender Body Oil is a gripping antithesis to the usually preferred floral overtures. The oil impresses with its stable sweetness and creamy finish. Purists will adore this bottled up organic beauty since it so nicely complements most provocative fragrances & conceptual oils.

While the oil’s uses are versatile & varied, one interesting thing to note is how the treatment can help with back acne on men & women. Because of the solvent properties in Sesame oil, a long & deep massage on the back can help to break up the excess oils and debris on the skin's surface. This might help women alleviate some of those ‘bra-breakout’s’ they get from sweat trapped between the strap & skin. The scientific data of Sesame oil has been evaluated by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel and deemed as a safe cosmetic ingredient. Sweet Almond brings in the hefty doses of glucosides, minerals, vitamins A, B1, B2, B6 and E to relive any temporary bouts of eczema, itching, soreness, dryness and inflammation and restores elasticity, reduce deep wrinkles, & firm up the sag.

Some of the fun uses for my Lavender oil are when I:

• Used with a dry brush & circular motions over joints to help release trapped pockets of natural energy
• Added 2 spoonfuls of sugar to create a relaxing foot scrub
• Dropped a teaspoonful in my conditioner (and that of my puppy's) to soften the tangled tresses (on the both of us)

Lavender on its own hasn’t done much for me in the past. But, I’m now suspicious of those industrial strength, lab-made creations that I may have fallen prey & taken offense to – those 6 for $30 specials. This genially comfortable blend is quite fashionably conforming on skin. Light with a bright nose, the oil has a distinct appeal that will easily climb through the rungs of passion and curiosity when layered in snug harmony. Or, will easily intoxicate skin on its own.

Perhaps, some of my readers are like me. They like to play mixology maestro at home, using the benefits of one face oil to enhance the ingredients of another. Maybe, just maybe you might concoct an oil worthy of a review as you lucked out with some ingenious blend hat left skin gleaning. Bravo to you. But, when some skin ailment rears its ugly head and morphs into some stare-in-the-face calamity you swear the whole world is staring at. When they are not. For example, oily skin. No matter how many times you try to ditch your Clarisonic, no matter how many gentle face scrubs you seek out, no matter how many times you hope the toothpaste trick will work, a zit will just pop through. So, off you go to try & figure out how to zero in on the problem – oil production.

It’s about time women are realizing how an overproduction of sebum is simply your face’s way of saying “stop stripping away my needed moisture, you wench!” Harsh exfoliants and the such are the key triggers for this unbridled outburst, which often stimulate the glands and cause skin to churn out more oil, leaving you with t-zone shine, caked up foundation or worse…that ill-fated zit. And, what to do next? Mix up that one oil which has mild astringent activity with the one that smells addictingly fantastic. While sebum is needed to properly protect precious skin, using a specially crafted face oil can help overactive glands scale back on their oil-producing revelry. Stark Skincare Purity+Defense Oil ($40) is one such serum that uses Cypress essences to help those zealous glands balance out while refreshing skin with a balanced tonic of moisturizing base oils.

According to "Milady's Skin Care and Cosmetics Dictionary," Cypress oil inhibits sebaceous gland secretion. Its astringent and antiseptic qualities are ideal for removing excess oil from the skin and for neutralizing bacteria that cause skin eruptions. And, there’s plenty of this essence in the serum. Cypress presents an androgynous arid herbal/wood accord softened by a background of a soft Bergamot. While Rosemary notes are barely discernible, the scent conjures a serum that is clear and natural, but emotive at its best. There is an elegant complexity and subtlety to the treatment that has the essences weaved throughout Apricot Kernel, Sweet Almond, Camellia Seed, and Argan carriers. What’s interesting to note is most readers will assume Bergamot is one of those photo-sensitive oils to watch out for. But, Stark uses bergaptene-free Bergamot, which won’t spot skin under sunlight. Extremely lightweight in density & texture, the oil absorbs on contact while cutting through the sharp verdancy with a softly projected sweetened citrus flourish on skin. It works extraordinarily well under foundation & around delicate thin-skinned eyes.

Cypress is such an undervalued smooth, fulsome oil with its biodynamic properties and rarely seen in face treatments, one that could have been blended clumsily with the usual healer, Lavender. Stark moves beyond this cliché to opt for Bergamot, which finishes into a true skin scent. Perhaps, it’s this unisex whiff that makes it so acceptably masculine & alluring. Men will surely want to use it post-shave to heal up any nicks or irritation.

This oil’s triumvirate of moisture, oil-control and anti-agers, resonates with its vibrant yet minimalist intent. The perfect addition to those skin care regimes needing a shot of organic pureness.

While some brands toy with retro packaging and kitschy, kitschy cool copy that playfully entices you amp up your organic wares in the beauty cabinet – dead sea salts for the bath or a wholly shea butter balm – the elementally brilliant DollyMoo shows you just how good and simple utilitarian body oils can be straight up fun. Their appropriation neither lacks risk nor sexuality. Sure, they offer the bedrock classics like Vanilla or Lavender oils for purists seeking to layer the oils with their fragrances. But, go step ahead and give us huile enthusiasts two excitingly fresh iterations – Lilac & Sandalwood, both scented treatments for skin & hair that have a bold charm with strong moisturizing roots.

Hand blended in small batches at a time, the medium-weighted oils are made from Grapeseed and organic Golden Jojoba oils with Vitamin E added to stabilize the hugely never-ending bottles of botanical bliss. From here, each undergoes an artisanal re-imagination of bare basic essentials to give you a classical taste of your favourite essence. For example, nothing stands in the way of some powerful accords of sweet, unrestrained Lilac oil in the namesake body elixir ($26). The succulent essence feels centered, as if suspended between the carriers, that holds beautifully for an impressive length of time until it transforms into the quiet solitude of its floral heart. You feel a nostalgic twinge with this subtly fragranced oil that will undoubtedly remind of you some enviable perfume you encountered when you first started shopping for your personal scent. It's integrity has been kept in tact very nicely, bringing a a meditative, calming experience. In contrast is the traditional Sandalwood Spice Body Oil ($26), which has the same core of carriers as above, but now weaves heavily baroque timbers of an understated Sandalwood with a raw & resinous Frankincense to yield a quietly solid and warmly meditative swirl of a scent. But, there is a resinous Frankincense spike that predominates at its opening, which some will find inviting & layerable with just about any floral oil. Try deepening a body oil with these incense-y undertones and you'll get what I mean.

The oils are pretty with a sensual edge; the closest thing to saturating your skin with a bouquet or stick of incense. You’ll actually want to keep inhaling both, as surprisingly they even layer well together, which makes DollyMoo all the more addicting. After you’ve sampled your favourite essence, you’ll wonder just how many different confectionary imprints you can create on your own. With the reasonably priced bottles (40% recyclable, always), DollyMoo is definitely the place to start when wanting to try out body oils with that delightful innocence but without any of that dreaded candied frothiness.

Simple, sheer, organic pleasures to enwrap the skin & soul.

There two seemingly opposing spectrums of the skin care world that give clout to a non-designer brand: those who feel safe reaching for derm lines touting the scientifically proven claims of the year’s hottest hero ingredients vs. those who say nature’s elements sans any chemical processing is the way to go when using a treatment that may actually be absorbed into the largest organ of the body. Dermalogica sits on neither side. Because of its name, some consumers may tend to think the line is backed by a group of derms, but it’s not. Dermalogica is the number one professional skin care brand in the world, and by "professional" they mean accredited skin therapists (aka aestheticians). Did you know the brand is only sold wherever a licensed skin therapist is present to assess skin up close & personal - think spas, salons, skin centers. Which means the ethos of the treatments is actually formulated by therapists who know skin inside & out. And, these therapists have actually seen, felt, & probably just about every type of formless pore, every size of that fearfully red zit, and every little crepey line waiting to appear from under.

Which is why I was thrilled to see the line launch an oil-based serum that uses some significant peptides alongside those omega-rich oils we love so much. The Overnight Repair Serum ($60) is a mega-lightweight oil that drenches skin with a largely-organic-and-sci-fi-peptide glory for a noticeably plump, soft and radiant result. Skin that has been taken with fatigue will adore the thrush of Sunflower, Sesame Seed, Fractionated Coconut, Carrot Seed, and Argan oils, which are superbly blended with Rosa Moschata (Musk Rose) while enveloping heavy doses of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38. PT-38 is a superb anti-aging peptide that mimics the body's own mechanism to produce collagen & hyaluronic acid to plump from within. Brown Seaweed oil doubles down on this effect. It’s the ideal serum that embodies the best of both worlds – science & nature. For those of you not ready to make the leap to a totally oil-based serum, you’ll be relieved to know the formulation doesn’t contain any junk-tastic ingredients to fluff of the label. The serum finishes with an opulent blend of Jasmine, Rosewood, Clove & Rose Flower, Geranium, Lemon & Orange Peel, Bergamot, Basil, Lemongrass, Curry & Cinnamon Leaf, and Rosemary essences, which show quiet the cursory respect to nature’s harvested oils. To the huile newbie, the roster may seem more chemically based, but the brand has chosen to list out the scientific names of the above mentioned as opposed to the commonly known monikers. Fear not, as this oil does peddle with the objective certainty of essentials.

The rousing scent is largely the a luscious interplay between the prominent Jasmine and Rosewood kicking off the adventurous translucency of sweetness that follows. The result is very natural, very tender, and very wearable. It's a clean floral - raw & pure at the heart. When used overnight under a night cream or added to one, skin is on its way back to good health with the shot of intense moisture and frenzy of antioxidant energy. Because it’s so airy, you can even apply it under eyes as a dedicated serum to rejuvenate the eye contour. The unusual choice for packaging is a bit of a bother (it's a pipette of sorts), but nothing that should deter you from flipping the bottle over & giving it a good shakedown.

Because this critic here is highly averse to chemically filled products, she’d say to those who still fear the all-encompassing regenerative powers of an architecturally blended oil – the serum’s slice of subtle scientific aesthetic will help diffuse your 'break-out-with-zits' panic mode with its mild-mannered roster of some pretty fantastic ingredients.

Beauty writers are a wild bunch. I’ve been known to do some pretty crazed out things when sampling and testing new products in the name of beauty. And, I’m not making any bones about my uninhibited lust for wanting to test some of the most unusual products. What are some cringeworthy things I’ve secretly archived from my past? Egg white & Avocado masks became the sticky norm. Lipsticks are cream shadows were fun but gloopy. Dumping a gallon of milk into a running bath kind of caused a stink. Making an oily skin spritz out of apple cider vinegar became a freak show for my contact lenses. I’ve used a cigarette lighter to melt lip liners. Tried to plump the hair shaft with beer. Mashed up Kiwi with sugar to scrub the face. Layered on deodorant as an anti-shine primer, which clogged my pores. And, of late, I’ve dumped the ever-popular pastel loofahs for kitchen scouring scrubs to exfoliate legs.

Yes, nothing is ever off limits in the folly of beauty. It takes time, practice, and a few hastily thwarted accidents to get a secret worth sharing. So, what whacked out trick could I possibly try with an oil? The latest experiment - I shaved. No, not my legs. No, not even the arms. Curious to test out Bikini Kitty No-Nick Razor Oil ($6.95), I fearlessly shaved the wispy sprouts over my upper lip a la Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor.

Oh, why the heck not? It’s hair & it’ll grow back. I mean the right brow did after a wayward attempt at one of those at-home strips gone awry. Though I usually opt for threading, I thought I’d spare my readers the gory details of sharing the results of shaving where the sun don’t shine, which is where the oil is actually meant to be used. The organic formula contains Grapeseed, Olive, Meadowfoam, Wheat Germ, Cranberry, Red Raspberry oils while Rosemary and Neem oils are added to enrich the delicacy of the protectant. It’s a lightweight oil, which has a nice slick to it. For the smoothest shave, BK suggests you shave at the end of a hot shower when skin is primed and hair follicles are softest. The No-Nick oil gives you the slip you need to easily cut hair and not scrape off skin, while the a drop or two of the oil is applied to the single blade razor to give a smooth shave across while leaving behind hydrated skin. With 4-5 quick strokes in the direction of hair, the upper lip was fuzz-free without any of the usual stark dryness I see after a threading session. Apparently, it’s not the act of shaving that dulls the blade, it’s the water left on the blade that causes corrosion and can lead to nicks and cuts on your legs. Or, the face in my case. Using an oil actually slows the effects of oxidation and extends blade life, so you end up saving a few bucks by buying fewer blades, and produce less waste for the landfill. Environmentally sound, too? Who knew. The oil smells slightly medicinal from the 100% natural, biodegradable Neem, which brings the antiseptic, anti-inflammatory & anti-bacterial compounds to ensure any open hair follicles don’t end up turning into in-grown hairs. With a superbly moisturizing base, the oil rinses off quickly and leave no greasy residue behind.

And, what about the lady bits? Betwixt us sisters, I decided to coif up the ‘cassoulet’ with the oil for funsies, too. The final word? Tidied up & smooth as a Christmas goose.

When it comes to face oils, the design of the carrier oils & essential often trumps scent. But, since I’m a bit of a scent-fiend, I often choose scent over function. Most of the time. Usually, the preferred treatment’s scent will be likely fleeting as not to offend the delicate skin around the eyes or hypersensitive nose. And, while the results from some serious mixmastering is a useful but not-so-fragrant product, I find myself quickly amassing a pretty-smelling wardrobe of oils over ones specifically tending to my defiantly oversized pores. Vered Botanicals, on the other hand, is that perfect example of the rare instance when scent and treatment align so idealistically on skin. Both her face oils – Anti-Aging Face Treatment Oil ($118) and Therapeutic Balancing Face Oil ($68) - are botanic beauties beautifully packaged in the brand’s hallmark sexy streamlined bottles begging to be poured. Which to choose? Both mature & oilier skin types will appreciate the initial shot of moisture from an oil, but each will want its own posh collective of essences to treat whatever skin issues demand the attention. I, for one, can’t decide on either one since I’m an anti-aging vixen, obsessive over every little lining that pops up without notice and simultaneously have to find a way to temper the classic t-zone shine.

The Anti-Aging Face Treatment Oil has a main mission to improve skin tone with Rosehip at the heart of the serum. Carrot Seed, Borage, Argan, Camellia, Pumpkin Seed, Marshmallow Root and Primrose oils round out the light-bodied, easily absorbed oil. Among the lot, Carrot Seed is rich in beta-carotene as well as vitamins A, B, C, D and E and is most useful as a skin rejuvenator and extremely effective for dry and aging skin. In addition to helping skin maintain its elasticity, Carrot Seed helps protect skin from harmful UV rays. This added to Rosehip’s ability to assist with cell regeneration, helps increase skin firmness, smoothness, elasticity and overall radiance. It’s the sort of serum that goes deep down to the very heart of the skin to reactivate all of the skin's youth functions. But, the prettiness of its tightly infused essences bring the faintest touch of sweetness from Jasmine and Rose essentials. The ethereal scent continues to present itself quite clearly with a very good balance and differentiation of Rosewood, Vanilla, Licorice, Calendula and Lemon Peel. It’s an impressive opening to the oil with so many wonderfully potent notes that elicit beautiful wisps of a hidden green tang and will have you sniffing again & again to figure out what’s captivating you amidst this compelling mélange. How is it possible not to like this excruciatingly lovely kind of scent? Perhaps, the Vanilla has warmed up on your skin. Or, maybe your senses have sifted out the Fennel. Whatever it is, the scent and texture will have you in awe of the serum’s enchanting translucency. Wrinkles were never so much fun to erase!

But, for day, there’s the Therapeutic Balancing Face Oil. While you don’t need to spurn the anti-shine primers, this serum will help acneic or simply greasy skin types balance out sebum production. Springing from 100% pure organic Jojoba and Sweet Almond base of moisture is a chirpy herb infusion of skin-boosting essences: Lemongrass, Myrrh, Niaoli, Calendula, Chickweed, Lavender, Echinacea, Plantain Leaf, & Speedwell that succeeds brilliantly under moisturizer, if needed at all. And, that’s because its function is almost that of adornment. Lemongrass, when partnered with Speedwell, is used to help clear up acne, speed up healing & alleviate excess slick from overactive pores. It’s a fresh and transparent emollient with a lively green opening, one that soon turns to a natural smelling citrus-y serum. When this rare roster is combined, the result is an interestingly visceral oil that manages to evoke an immensely elegant finesse with the sensuality of a somewhat discreet aromatic interplay. The scent is comforting and familiar (probably due to the tempered echo of Lavender), but unusually uplifting on some subconscious sense. When used under primer and over my SPF, I didn’t see a need to blot any shine even 3 hours after dusting on my MUFE powder foundation, which clings quite seamlessly to the layered regimen.

What does this all mean to the non-huile novice? That you will ultimately see how combination skins can choose between an oil to tighten up those pores or one to smooth out stress-induced lines. Or both. See,  re-imagining esoteric essences alongside some usual ones is what Vered Botanicals does best. No matter what organically sound treatment you choose.

Every once in awhile you come across an organic jar of skincare so buttery sleek, so tempting in scent, you just wanna dip down and take a taste. Well, ok, it’s probably just me, but it seems like every time I open a treatment from In Fiore, there’s that inexplicable tension that grows between the skin begging for moisture and the palate imploring to test the brand's latest iteration of Jasmine. And, this time was no different. The brand’s #1 selling balm, Fleur Vibrante ($58), makes much sense to distressed skin suffering from any post-traumatic skin searing; think waxing, threading, shaving, chemical peeling, microderming, or just abut any other form of over exfoliating in search of that elusive fountain of youth. I reached for a jar of this blissful marvel when skin felt so dry; it was desperately trying to sop up moisture from an anti-oily skin primer. How did this manifest itself? Foundation settled in smiles lines, pores opened with a cavernous curiosity, and the loose setting powder plopped up into microblobs atop skin. A hideous mess. My retinoid treated skin was sensing a raw abandon of needed nutrients thanks to a full face threading session from two days earlier.

And, there it was. Fleur Vibrante ready to feed skin with a balmy base of Calendula-Infused Grapeseed, Rosehips Seed, and Jojoba Seed oils while organic Beeswax gave the velvety spread a bit of form to stay put. For Julie Elliott, the balance oils & essentials is more than a metaphor. It’s not about slopping together oils & waxes to fluidly slather on top of skin. At In Fiore, it's about balancing the needs of ever curious skin stuck in a desperate flux to find that desired combination of elemental skin nutrients which bring out a naturally hydrated glean. With Fleur Vibrante, Julie is inherently critical about her wildcrafted tinctures, biodynamic extracts, and 100% pure essences to ensure here they infuse eloquently to yield a lighter-than-air texture, which feels like a night cream, but treats like a luxury mask. Calendula & Seabuckthorn extracts are densely weaved with a respectfully classic Jasmine Flower oil, which gives the luscious balm a liturgical spirit of sorts. You feel like this is some sort of old world treasured recipe that was uncovered in some long forgotten dusty trunk. Actually, recent research shows that the water extracts of Calendula Flowers, applied on skin wounds, play a role as microvascularization inducing agents, thus contributing to speed up healing (Alonso J., 2004). Calendula, due to its high saponin content (a fancy word for phytochemicals) content has moisturizing properties making it ideal in formulations for dry, irritated or delicate skin. And, treat it did.

Not even 12 hours later, one slick of opulent balm generously coated over the entire face helped my dry skin kick the unwelcomed tightness away and reproduce the natural hydration. This is such a common side effect of those of using prescriptive meds (Retin-A, Accutane, Tazorac, etc.) or for, yet again, those of us trading up those mucky mud masks for deeply penetrating chemical peels as monthly quick fix. And, then there's still a few more who add in the occasional session of lasering to their obsessive regimes. Well, at least the kind that don't leave us looking raw for days after. It’s not a heavy balm for thirsty skins, but rather an airy light treatment with a caress of shine that can be blotted out. The balm is so hydrating, you can feel still feel the suppleness the morning after. My hands couldn’t stop massaging the cheekbones & forehead over and over again to get deeper inhalations of the resolute but discreet Jasmine when I realized I had forgotten the merits of a good facial rubdown. Trust Decleor to share some pretty fantastic techniques on how give a worthy, tension-relieving self-massage to sculpt those often overlooked facial muscles.

What’s best of this balm (so reasonably priced that it’ll surely last you months when a little dab goes so far) is how it’s used nothing as a point of reference and is completely uncompromising. Balms don’t need to be sticky or gloopy. Balms don't need to smell waxy. And, balms don't need to be stiff & unspreadable. The best of them are actually fluttery complements to your minimalist face oils with exquisite craftsmanship instilled in the jar.

 For skin that holds onto the hope for such an idylle balm, the wait ends here.

The package arrived in the usual, unmarked USPS wrapper, a non-descript oil without any name, any labeling, any branding as not to alert my delivery man of any frisky play at hand. Discrete as its intent, perhaps, the sweetly, bad-ass oil arrived just in time for Valentine’s Day to help the single spinsters and married mavens alike reach for inspiration – an oil not quite for the body, not quite for…ahem…the vajayjay – to help ladies get their groove on. I can just hear the shrieks across blogosphere…

“Can an oil actually help turn you on?” Perhaps…

“Is it safe enough to…ahem, eat…well, in case it gets anywhere I should be concerned about?” Yes. This organic oil is actually 100% vegan for finicky taste buds.

“Will I finally see God or something close to the light?” Ummm, depends on the powers of your concentration.

Just in time for Valentine's Day came the Kat-Nip Fetch ($12.50). I was intrigued. I asked questions. And, I conceded. Not because I’ve got some soft-core desire to test out oils in all there forms & function, but because well this one was created with some serious scientific evidentiary support…and well, because s*x oils need love to. Now, before you get all ‘Hail Mary’ on the review, allow me to share with you why I was intrigued. Bikini Kitty formulated this ultimate sensory, essence-based thrush on the research findings from Dr. Alan R. Hirsch MD, head of the The Smell & Taste Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago. I had the distinct pleasure of chatting it up with the good doc about scents & stimulation and whether or not Bikini Kitty was giving me a good ‘ole tease. Apparently not.

N.K.: Has history ever shown any correlation between essentials & sexual drive or the such?
A.H.: The prominent connection between odors & sex among diverse historical periods & cultures implies a high level of evolutionary importance. Ancient Egyptians bated with essential oils in preparation for their assignations; Sumarians seduced women with perfumes. Even Freud said about 100 years ago that to remain a civilized society, we need to repress our olfactory stimuli, otherwise we’d be sexually excited all the time.

N.K.: I wonder how fragrance bloggers would feel about that today. Ok, so, let’s get down n’ dirty. Where did you begin studying such evidence out of the sack?
A.H.: We noticed patients who developed anosmia also developed sexual dysfunction in about 17% of the cases we studied. We realized no one had taken a look at how odors can affect sexual arousal, so we started with medical students & a wide variety of perfumes.

N.K.: Can essential oils actually unleash any of those deeply carnal desires tucked deep, deep down within women and/or men? If so, how?
A.H.: Physiological evidence of the importance of odors in sexual excitation is two-fold: First, during sexual excitation, engorgement of the nose induces development of eddy currents (like small tornadoes). Then, since less of the air goes directly into the lungs, more pheromones (sexual attractants we naturally produce in our bodies, part of that invisible je ne sais quoi that attracts or repels us from a person) can reach the olfactory epithelium and smell is more acute. Breathing from the mouth during sexual excitation is evidence of nasal engorgement maximizes contact with stimulants & pheromones. Second, olfactory ability in women, generally better than that of men (I knew it!), is at its peak during ovulation, perhaps to detect any pheromones present. Increased olfactory ability at this time may explain why periovulatory women tend to have more sexual experiences.

N.K.: Nice to hear women are not slutting it around due to any mistakenly identifed Daddy issues. So, what did your studies show? Which essences worked well on men & their waning libidos? Women want to know.
A.H.: Each of the 30 odors tested produced an increase in penile blood flow. The combined odor or Pumpkin & Lavender had the greatest effect, increasing median-flow by 40%. Least stimulating was Cranberry, which increased flow by 2%.

N.K.: The irony of Bath & Bath Works shoving useless fruity gels & lotions into the marketplace. These glorified iterations serve no purpose when needed & desired most. And, for women?
A.H.: For some reason, Good n’ Plenty candy (aka Black Licorice) when paired with Cucumber showed the highest increase in blood flow, of up to 13%. Interesting, women can also have inhibitory reactions to certain scents; charcoal barbeque meat decreased flow by -14%, while cherry decreased it by 18%. And, surprisingly men’s, cologne decreased the flow by -1%.

So, if a woman complains that her man’s body odor turns her off, he ought to pay heed...snark, snark...but, back to the basics.

It now makes sense why Kat-Nip Fetch is more than just a fetish for those staid Saturday romps between long time lovers. Eroticism & kidding aside, it’s really the organically sound way to get into the swing of the horizontal mambo and indulge within that intangible, irrational feeling of unadulterated joy. Fractionated Coconut and Jojoba oils are weaved with inebriated slivers of organic sweet licorice Anise extracts softened out by arresting folds of Vanilla, which really only appears when warmed up on skin. Because the Anise was extracted within vodka, expect to see the separation of tinctures in the bottle, which can be shaken up. To wince with ecstasy when the mythicism of the G-spot frustrates you both, the testers at Bikini Kitty suggest you dab a few drops of the spankin’ fun oil anywhere beneath the nose or in between your breast & belly button before getting touchy feely. And, foreplay counts. Sandra Byers, Ph.D., author and professor of psychology at the University of New Brunswick, says "Our research shows that men are as interested in foreplay as women are and that they want more than they're having.” And, if he wants more, no better way to go than with a tasty, deliberate oil to turn those carnal cravings into blissful, happy endings.

While I’m certainly a single spinster by night, I can’t attest to an honest go with the oil. Just yet. Give me a few more dates as I have a new DvF dress waiting to seduce. And, I will promise to give an update here. But, Dr. Hirsch’s empirical evidence does show how the deliciously wicked essence of Anise can turn up the heat in your lust…ahem…love life. And you cannot fake science no matter how hard you try.

If you haven’t heard of Blissoma, don’t be surprised. It’s not your typically glitzy brand of oils or even one of those hyped up luxury serums. It doesn’t even fall into any of those the kitschy, hipster brands, which even I sometimes prefer for their cheeky course of aesthetics and surprising pops of particularly skanky whiffs which tickle me to no end. Yes, a girl should have a wardrobe of oils to suit her every whim. And, when that mood calls for some seriously penetrative power for winter’s finicky winds, Blissoma’s Deep Moisture Oil Serum ($29.99) is the no-flash choice for perking up skin from its lackluster, blotchy tone & withered away flaky self. The medium-bodied, ambery oil is not for you if sweet floral blends are your huile du jour. Bottled up here is a 100% vegan elixir (always blended in small batches to preserve the integrity of the essences) with carefully calibrated, medicinally-tinged oils – 10, unrefined seed oils to be precise - which work to activate the restorative functions of skin to reveal more luminous texture while providing long term moisture and resilience. Unrefined is key at Blissoma since the processing of oils can strip away some the originally in tact, skin-healing elements.

Distressed skins will appreciate the Evening Primrose, Grapeseed, Jojoba, and Raspberry oils entwined to bring deft pockets of moisture to rehydrate deeply. But, since cell turnover decreases as we age, Rosehip is also added to help revive and tone the complexion. The composition rounds out with Cranberry, Tamanu, Hemp, & Pomegranate oils while Seabuckthorn Berry and Calendula extracts bring antioxidant activity. Hemp & Tamanu oils are so overlooked as deliciously nutritive carriers:

• Hemp is about 80% essential fatty acids, specifically GLA (gamma-linolenic acids) lipids, which aid with cell regeneration. This good to know if skin has been exposed to direct sunlight and dry air with SPF, which can lead to peeling and brittle skin
• Tamanu has a smattering of complex polyphenols, which have been known to act as a natural sun protectant and save skin from UV-induced DNA damage and oxidative stress. In other words, wrinkling.

The naturally derived, botanical based oil does take a few seconds to slip into skin, but when it does, nary a shine remains. Really, it’s almost like a 'non-oil' oil with thinness but, ironically, makes for one intensely rejuvenating overnight mask. Spread across skin about 30 min before bedtime and you’ll wake up to some gloriously plumped up skin. Scentwise, it’s a woodsy embrace of Atlas Cedarwood, Palmarosa, Neroli, Helichrysum & Rosemary. While it’s not an aggressive smack of these essences, the oil does come off like a one-accord wonder as the Neroli is furtively tucked behind the warm Cedarwood, which gives the oil a luscious dark but rooty feel without any greenery from within. To date, I’ve only seen one other oil (for the body) with Cedarwood, which makes me wonder is it an essence suffering from some sort of snicker-fodder of scent? Don’t think it’s a heavy scent. It’s actually quite a refreshing change from the usual gamut of citruses lacing most face oils. You do feel like you’re using some pretty effective, pharma grade essences when you’re not being the distracted by the prettiness of any infused blooms.

The result is a discernibly clear & smooth oil with virility and an affordable price tag that won’t break the bank. What below-the-beauty-radar Blissoma lacks in marketing heft, the brand makes up for in the inventiveness of its splendid & unwavering botanicals.

“If you can’t eat it, don’t put it on your skin.”

Sound like rhetoric from some self-righteous, green-happy, amateur sleuth–cum–organic convert touting the claims of some pseudo-natural face cream created & marketed to save the planet and your skin?

No. Not at all.

As a matter of fact, it’s dutiful de facto advice from Dr. Saulius Alkaitis, a scientist with a Ph.D. in physical chemistry (the branch that studies how molecules work and what forces get them to do the job we want them to do) from UCLA (my alma mater…go Bruins!). And, the one & only thing the good doc may just lose his scholarly cool over is the rampant use chemicals in today's mass marketed skin care.


Along with this, the one thing women often forget is how good, clean, luminous skin is a direct reflection of both its inner & external health. Just how authentically in the pink your innards are from those extra glasses of water & detoxing fruit & veggies will manifest itself into the radiance and luster of your face. If it doesn’t, skin is asking...no, begging for help – through lackluster texture, itchy scalp, or scaly patches on legs after your daily shaving rituals. And, answer to skin's implore you must.

While you can’t feed the dermis from within, you certainly can skip over those hyped up serums - with their less-than-humble promises to treat up with some hero ingredient - and intensely revitalize and stimulate your sapped out epidermis with the doc’s Organic Nourishing Treatment Oil ($80). I’m surprised the organically wildcrafted oil hasn’t found wilder fame among eco-conscious fans, but then again the green guard, Fig + Sage, did award this one esoteric oil it’s revered symbol of approval with the ‘Best Natural Beauty Award.’ I guess I’m on the late freight with this doozy of a face oil. To begin, the core of the oil is comprised of virgin cold-pressed organically grown Jojoba, St. John’s Wort, and Andean Mountain Rose Hip Seed oils to instantly soothe the senses. St. John’s Wort is a rarely infused herb seen in body oils, though its historic evidence for treating dry skins and even eczema overwhelm with anecdotal evidence for both inner & outer well-being. For example, the 17th-century English herbalist, Nicholas Culpeper, called the woody wonder herb "a singular wound herb; boiled in wine and drank, it healeth inward hurts or bruises.”


The infinitely precious list of medicinal essences is as rare in its composition as each extract is in its own therapeutic right: hand blended wildcrafted herbs like Indian Madder, Country Sarsaparilla, Country Mallow, China Root, Costus, White Sandalwood, Cuscus Grass, Eagle Wood, Nut & Bermuda Grasses, and Ashwagandha are complemented by organically grown Amazon Root, Liquorice, & Tumeric. The frenzied blend is always shipped within 2 weeks of being manufactured. Considering Dr. Alkaitis has conducted some serious plant research with four Nobel prize recipients, it’s safe to say he knows a thing or three about these highly forgotten but compelling herbs, which work with their elemental synergy to bring long-term firming, hydrating, and smoothing effects while strengthening up lost elasticity. Turmeric is a prized ingredient from the lot. here. Sci-fi studies show how turmeric laced skin care enhanced sebum content and skin hydration as compared to plain extract loaded conventional creams. Turmeric also has traditional uses for treating eczema and acne flare-ups thanks to Curcumin (the main element of Turmeric) which has anti-inflammatory properties, according to the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center.

The bountiful harvest forms a light-bodied oil, leaving no shine behind. But, the scent hinges on key essentials which shall remain confidential. A dusty, almost mystic, Sandalwood brings an incense-y smoothness to the scent, while Patchouli rounds out the meditative opening. The enigmatic essentials are able to impress sensuality with erotic and spiritual accords thanks to the juxtaposition of varying oils all obscure and mysterious in the wake of the earthy finish. A slightly resinous trail tames the aromatic fougere with a sweetened floral (Ylang Ylang, perhaps?), but in the end, the scent of the oil is surprisingly airy and assertive. The serum wears well under SPF & makeup, while leaving even my driest areas (elbows and knees) hydrated all day. Try layering it under a face balm as an intensive face mask at night, which makes for a great winter rescue.

It’s always a thrill to see a scientist celebrate the great glorious history of the essential oils, herbs, tinctures and carriers. Too often opponents of the eco-happy movement tend to argue how sci-fi facts rarely support the claims of all-natural products and that organic beauty treatments are nothing more than mass marketing in their own right. But, Dr. Alkaitis’ work with some newfangled herbs and essences proves how those relentlessly chic sort of active ingredients are exactly what we often seek out in the simplest of bottles & philosophies.

And, that is what obsessive arbiters of good oils convincingly want.

If you were lucky enough to land an appointment for a facial with Vered Beck, an aesthetician loved by beauty editors in New York, you would have left with a teensy vial of your custom created blend for the face, so fragrant in its artisanal composition that you’d likely have even worn it as a perfume. That’s what many of Vered’s clientele did – leave her skin care clinic begging for her to bottle up her creative blends for their pulse points. It’s only after 23 years of spa experience that she finally conceded. Her self-effacing, eponymous brand – Vered Botanicals – is the perfect balance of sophistication without trying to hard. Where to start with her myriad of oil offerings? I’m so smitten with the streamlined, sexed up packaging. Each bottle seems to echo the embodiment of innocence, freshness and grace. I’m so wanting to dissect each oil with great care, so, the Rosewood Neroli Body Oil ($68) is where I choose to start my exploration as the minute you open the bottle, you'll be overcome by it’s heady, unbridled strokes of romanticism in the soul of the oil.

Vered represents some of the best niche crafters quietly sneaking into the luxury marketplace & taking some pretty unabashed risks with their essences & tinctures. Rosewood Neroli Body Oil is the genteel straddle of the line between nature’s minimalism and exoticism brilliantly executed. Her therapeutic grade essentials are highly pure as seen by the olfactory-gustatory experience of Rosewood, which opens this highly feminine but ultra-shy scent. Accords of Tangerine and Neroli play perfectly well off each other, while the touch of Lavender leaves a tasty, sweet and mellow density of whirls while scattering across skin. A semi-citrus temperament of Pink Grapefruit and Lime finish the great balancement of elements, but they are tucked away so deep, they serve more as accents to the dense mellifluence of Rosewood. The scent is quite and sensual almost baroque richness of depth. There’s a very good chance, if you’re reading this, that’ll you try to place the scent in the sweetness of red roses. But, don’t. The luminous vibrations of the velvety Rosewood are more that of the brandied lush roses from the Arabian Nights. Or something like that.

And, when these essentials are entangled together in the semi-viscous core pure Jojoba, Evening Primrose, Almond & Avocado oils, it’s easy to see why Vered’s clients slathered her elixirs on both face and body without regret. From the roster of moisturizing carriers, Avocado oil is hot on trend in cosmetic science. A recent study shows how extracts from avocado pulp (and its resulting oil) create an anti-aging, detoxifying and plumping active, which stimulates the endogenous synthesis of hyaluronic acid to restore volume to mature, dehydrated and stressed skin. This active derived from avocados is now recommended at 0.1-0.6% in anti-aging, plumping and detoxifying skin care and is even certified by Ecocert for its purity. But, why take .1% of the active element, when you can use the oil straight up?

There’s an ineffable quality of luxury without the usual hype of commercialism surrounding the launch of a new brand. With Vered Botanicals, you’ll feel as though you’ve entered a new phase of buzzed about sophistication with body care, which is well worth the price tag.

Carol’s Daughter is that one brand that is fabulously helping the giddy revival of the great hair oil and brings such a wide assortment of florals that range from whimsical renditions of tropicals to the subdued, more entertaingly impish scents that twinkle in whatever parabens- sulfates- synthetic dyes- petrochemicals-phthalates free treatment you reach for. Every time I pop by display units at Sephora, I spend more time sniffing out the marvelous simplicities of the scented bottles and tubs. Quite frankly, it’s sometimes simpler to say what the brand doesn’t do wrong—anything—than what it does right. The Tui Moisturizing Hair Oil ($10) is an intense, instant, scented hair treatment that when used weekly revives, strengthens, and gives shine & finesse to hair.

Yo can’t go wrong with this budget find. Actually, a jewel of a find. At its heart is Corn oil, which has been found to contain 59% linoleic acid, a deep source of Vitamin E. Sci-fi proof shows in a 2007 research article published by the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, linoleic acid was found to "lower likelihood of senile dryness (dryness as a result of aging)," and to be associated with "better skin skin-aging appearance" among middle-aged American women. As such, Corn oil is a highly emollient source of moisture, though some may think it’s quite heavy on hair. But, it’s the contrary – Carol’s Daughter Tui Oil actually is light-bodied in texture and washes out with one rinse of your any day shampoo. Corn oil penetrates easily into the hair & reinstates the deficiencies of lost hair health. About a quarter size squirt can be used as a bi-weekly deep hair conditioner, or twice that saturated over the locks for a concentrated hair mask. I opted for the latter and found my baby fine tresses came out salon smooth just after one soak. Safflower oil is also added, since it, too, being a lightweight carrier, seeps straight away. In addition to full of flounce waves, the scent is also what blooms.

While Chamomile and Calendula extracts are comparatively modest when a liberal amount of oil is used, the jubilant tropical scent is quite lively! It’s like an island fun cocktail of Guava, Mango & Passion fruit are ostentatious in their thrush but comforting in their resilience. Yes, the scent does last during any spa-like conditioning session with a retro-beginning flourish which is certain to transport you to some sand-in-your-face childhood memory. Uncompromisingly talky as the scent unfolds, but with a subtle rooty touch of aromatic green from its botanical extracts. I’d almost want to use this oil when slicking hair back in my low French bun, but then realized the Tui Jojoba & Shea Butter Hair Sheen ($18) gives me the spray functionality for the early morning mad dash.

The same moniker – Tui – brings a different lot of oils into a non-sticky composition: Sweet Almond, Soybean, Jojoba, & Wheat Germ oils are lightly layered in between the creamiest sheets of Shea Butter. It’s the perfect spritzer for braids & buns instead of sticky gels, as not only does the misty dry oil keep flyaways in check & keep manageability in check, but also you’re treating those dead ends at the same time. The Hair Sheen is an easy practice of simplicity, practicality and tactility - the perfect ‘non-oil’ oil for to treat hair. And, a winner for me as it imparts a smooth, candied Black Vanilla, which does start off as synthetic but softens to a likeable finish. Considering how many other chemical offenders the brand smartly avoids, I’d wish Carol’s Daughter would opt for essentials over synthetic parfums to bring a refined, aromatic depth to these classic oils. Ah, a girl can dream.

The Tui hair oils bring two differently fantastic results for that one hair crisis we all get – dry, frayed ends.

Whenever a new face oil grabs the eye & tugs at the heart, the first thing I do is flip it over for its ingredients. And, I do appreciate so many of these serums for any variety of reasons. The marketing lyricism? Fabulous. The essential oils' eloquence? Flawless. The obligatory scan for mineral oil or other chemical villains? Non-existent. The prejudice for insisting on nothing but the purest of ingredients can be a challenge when trying to decode some of those slyly hidden ingredients listed on the labels of those so-called ‘natural’ branded face creams and butters. Let’s face it - a sink full of moisturizing oils are generally simpler and purer than thicker butters and potions. Did you know, on the Environmental Working Group (EWG) Skin Deep database, oils often get a greener rating than creams by the same manufacturer? You can skip over athe guesswork with One Love Organics Morning Glory Brightening Complexion Booster ($48) – a face serum that is not only well-made, but it’s organically well-resolved to resuscitate your lost radiance.

Creativity, quality, & legitimacy are all neatly tucked in this petite bottle of larger-than-life essences. First off, its scent impression is a surprisingly unusual take on the usually cool breath of Peppermint. Suzanne LeRoux, full-time lawyer turned aromatherapy purveyor, modestly says,


And, stimulate it does. While Sweet Mint accents the crisp verdancy of both paired together with a double vendetta of exuberant perkiness, the warmth of a languorous Ylang Ylang (an oily skin purifier) quiets both by announcing delicate spring blossoms without allowing the oil to appear like, well, some liquor store candied sweet treat. No tartness of the mint can be intuited, though when sniffed deeply, the tangy zest of Lemon now peers through the layers of carriers to leave the trail of a translucent scent, which shows accord that stay fresher than its zest would suggest. Mint always makes me peek twice – too much and you have a bottle of Wrigley’s Spearmint oil; too little and you have to actually think about its discovery. Here, the purposeful blend of the organic essentials work so complementary proving how an unconventional mélange of essences can still surprise marvelously. Evening after reviewing 200+ oils, too.

The body of the serum is the stuff of antiaging hysteria. Raspberry Leaf is the lead oil, full of polypeptides, flavonoids, tannins, Vitamin C, calcium and niacin. Gently, the nimble extracts work as an astringent on dry or irritated skin by tightening the top layers of skin effectively improving tissue firmness. Interspersed between fractions of Coconut oil and Sweet Mint oil are tangy pockets of Organic Lemon Balm aka Melissa oil is so potent in its antioxidant activity, that Kurt Schnaubelt, in Advanced Aromatherapy, says,

The serum gives you a swift, sweet calm with its light-hearted viscosity. It seeps into the delicate skin under eyes within a flash and provides a luxurious, dewy smooth feeling while  plumping with an instant boost of moisture. For that occasional dry spell you may get from any eyebrow/upper lip waxing or threading job, pair the oil overnight with an added skin comforter, Skin Savior Waterless Balm, for incredible clarity. Richly perfect, use Morning Glory to rationalize your sensory experience with the organic way of essentials.

Sin City has its days of searingly dry desert winds chafing up skin on the outside and nights with drunken debauchery dehydrating skin from its inside. With its sporadically exciting but usually stinging bright lights & sinfully fun , full-of-regret indulgences, the women of Vegas know a thing or two about dry skin and what it really takes to get lips plumped with moisture. So, it’s no surprise some of the city’s veteran makeup mavens pooled their beauty gripes together and founded Vegas’ first cosmetic line of tried & tested alluring, highly pigmented products fit for harsh lights with deeply distressed skin for photo-lasting power. As such, lips are the first place to show signs of crepiness. Whether you’re 20 or 60, losing the pout’s natural fullness is always of concern. This followed by any crepiness seen from those feathery fine age lines that creep up without notice. Keep your pucker fully rounded and defined with Rain’s Lip Therapy ($14) a delightfully exceptional balm with a creamy texture that instantly melts on the lips, providing them with a soothing sensation while restoring their youthful, plump and healthy appearance. How? Healthful oils, of course, are nestled in this unendurably cute tear drop packaging.

Castor oil makes up the bulk of this juicy balm, with nearly 90% of its fatty acid content derived from of Ricinoleic acid, an EFA not found in any other substance. Such a high concentration of this unusual, unsaturated fatty acid is thought to be responsible for Castor Oil's scrumptiously remarkable healing abilities. Castor oil is a natural emollient that penetrates the skin on the spot and helps stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, which can soften and hydrate the chappy lips. This drenching power is coupled with Aloe Vera oil, which not only calms the irritable skin under peeling flakes, but also brings Vitamins C & E to get some antioxidant action going. Macadamia Nut, Avocado, and Kukui oils are blended within moist dollops of Mango Butter, fortified with Beeswax and touched with extracts of Honeysuckle. Interesting to note is how Mango Butter has a protective effect against UV radiation. Special Edition, the rosy shade seen above, is my favourite shade, not for any pop of colour, but rather for the berry licking taste it leaves behind. The colours are subtle washes for lips, not nearly pigmented, if that’s your look. Suite is such a darling baby pink with hushed hints of glimmer & delectably tinged with a strawberry tang. The non-sticky balm glazes across lips restoring a satiny-smooth appearance. It is a true, pliable balm, not a gloss, so don’t expect any overt shine. But, when used over a densely pigmented lip liner, you can get a long-lasting lip sheen that conditions.

Not too far off the periphery of the celeb radar - Paris Hilton, Ashlee Simpson, Mandy Moore prefer the brand when partying hard & getting pap snapped ever harder – Rain’s Lip Therapy does prove its mettle with its hip street style without any of the usual Vegas schlock & talk. Quite simply – it’s fancifully efficient & it works.

Hydrosols, also known as floral waters, hydroflorates, flower waters or distillates are produced from steam-distilling plant materials. Suzanne Catty, author of Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy suggests the following definition:


The Egyptians, Greeks and Romans are all known to have made great use of hydrosols for their healing and aesthetic properties alongside their infusions and unguents. See, hydrosols have similar properties to essential oils but are much less concentrated. The plant matter used in essential oil distillation imparts an incredulously addicting aroma to its remaining water. Now supercharged with deeply active elements from the essence of the plant, this ready-to-use hydrosol offers a misty and therapeutic way to deliver a wide range of soothing skin benefits you’ve come to expect from face and body oils. Some plants are even specifically distilled for the resulting hydrosol instead of the hydrosol being simply a byproduct of the distillation. Unlike their "essential oil added to water" counterparts, true steam-distilled hydrosols contain all the nutritional components that whole plant materials have to offer. Gentle hydrosols are water soluble & can be used directly on the skin without further dilution. Some brands will use hydrosols in place of water when creating natural fragrances, oils, creams, balms, facial toners and other skin care products to bring even higher grades of purity to their prducts. For fun, they can also be added to the bath and even be used on their own as a light cologne or body spray on pulse points if the fragrance is heady enough.

You may be surprised to learn that many of the 'floral waters' available in the cluttered organic market have been made with synthetic compounds which really end up without any therapeutic or beautifying qualities. Some of these variations are produced by adding essential oils or absolutes to water and using alcohol, dispersants or solvents. But, know this – the richest hydrosols are usually a by-product of essential oil production. As such, the highest quality comes from devoted distillers who, with artist-like precision, steam small batches of fresh floral and plant material strictly to produce hydrosols, such as copper stills and processed through certified organic methods. Hydrosols contain all of the essence of the plant in every drop, just like essential oils but in a milder form; making them suitable for all manner of applications where essential oils might be too strong for daily use. In most hydrosols there is less than 5% actual oil.

Take note when buying hydrosols derived from citrus fruits or flowers that are usually extracted by solvents. For example, since citrus essential oils are cold pressed and not steam distilled, these hydrosols must be specially made and are very common. Jasmine 'hydrosol' is another example that should be purchased with caution since the oil is almost exclusively extracted by the use of solvents and cannot be steam distilled, and thus captured easily. And, spray liberally, as it's been said that when a bottle containing a floral water or aromatic oil is left only partially full, the oxygen that also lives inside the bottle reacts with the floral water and begins to oxidize it. This process can cause the volatile aromatic components to permanently separate (after this occurs, shaking the bottle does no good). And, like your oils, store hydrosols in cool, dark places as their fragile composition may be damaged by sunlight and UV rays. And, yes, they can even be refrigerated (not frozen!) to prolong their shelf life.

Get your spritz on.