Botanical oils are getting their well-earned due thanks to the revival of such simplicity. Despite its faux-glamorous name, this unassuming hair oil isn't greasy or pretentious like many of its ilk. See, what I love about Philip, a highly respected hair guru from Hollywood, is how he called out what we all wish we could, if we sat in the power chair – how most luxury lines of hair care were predictable formulations of detergent, water, and fragrance. Shampoos were mediocre, while conditioners ‘too waxy and heavy.’ So, he went straight to botanicals & naturally sourced ingredients to formulate what now has become his signature treatment - Philip B Rejuvenating Oil ($30). For anyone who has spent half a lifetime abusing their tendrils with heated tools & more, this restorative botanical blend is modern minimalism at its finest.
Off the dropper, you’ll absolutely adore the startling blend of Ylang Ylang, Lavender, Gardenia with respectable under notes of Spotted Geranium. Nothing is synthetic with this aromascope of elegantly tailored fresh essentials, which really ought to be bottled up as a body oil on its own. The feminine rawness of the Ylang Ylang disappears into a powdery rasp as the Geranium serves as the clincher bringing the teeniest note of wood from within. The exuberant bursts of florals & herb is strongly akin to a softly matured floral fragrance, tempering the line between sexy & aggressive with an abstract flow of essences & their nuanced fragility. One doesn’t float effortlessly over the other, but rather waft in & out of the Olive Fruit, Sesame Seed, Peanut, Sweet Almond, Jojoba, and Walnut carriers. While the top notes top notes evanesce, hair’s roots & body are re-energize by the ultra-lightweight viscosity oil.
Olive oil is the penetrating oil of choice. Penetrating oils are good to treat with particularly before washing hair. Olive oil applied to dry hair before washing will prevent your hair from sopping up a lot of water. This action helps hair control its expansion, which will prevent minor breakage and protein loss which comes from cuticle chipping. See, as you wash hair, it drinks up moisture and releases it, which does cause lifting of the cuticle. As you repeat this action over the course of weeks & months, your cuticles will start to fray apart from the stretching aka hydral fatigue. An oil like Olive has been show to penetrate the shaft & prevent this type of damage (Journal of Cosmetic Science pg 169-184,2001). Even on skin, the oil leaves no shine behind. Walnut oil has been recommended to fight wrinkles since at least the seventeenth century, according to "Dangerous Garden: The Quest for Plants to Change Our Lives." It’s enormously high in linoleic acid and helps to moisturize damaged or dry scalps. And, while this is weaved into a rich base with omega-rich oils, Peanut has its own claim to fame. According to Vasant Lad, author of "The Complete Book of Ayurvedic Home Remedies," a mixture of Peanut oil and lime juice can be applied to the scalp to help stop hair loss in women. Fun fact, I guess. (I'll let you know if this works in about 22 years)
The payoff with drenching your locks for at least 30 minutes with this oil is fuller body and a polished shine without the stodginess of greasy tresses. You can add a few drops to your conditioner, but I find hair oils work their best when left to seep into the strands under the sun or on its own. The treatment washes out in one rinse with my regular Pantene, which is an added bonus, as some of the chemically fluffed up hair masques simply coat the hair and often need a clarifying shampoo to rinse of whatever crap is left clinging for dear life. My fine, wispy strands felt lighter & bouncier the day after coaxing wayward layered sections to fall into place.
Beyond its stellar vitamin rich blend, I’m so smitten with Philip B for sticking to their botanicals guns and creating a venerable brand for the organo-happy set. I’m off to try the shampoo/conditioner from their staggering low-key collection of hair treatments in hopes this multi-tendriled scent will be found elsewhere.