There two seemingly opposing spectrums of the skin care world that give clout to a non-designer brand: those who feel safe reaching for derm lines touting the scientifically proven claims of the year’s hottest hero ingredients vs. those who say nature’s elements sans any chemical processing is the way to go when using a treatment that may actually be absorbed into the largest organ of the body. Dermalogica sits on neither side. Because of its name, some consumers may tend to think the line is backed by a group of derms, but it’s not. Dermalogica is the number one professional skin care brand in the world, and by "professional" they mean accredited skin therapists (aka aestheticians). Did you know the brand is only sold wherever a licensed skin therapist is present to assess skin up close & personal - think spas, salons, skin centers. Which means the ethos of the treatments is actually formulated by therapists who know skin inside & out. And, these therapists have actually seen, felt, & probably just about every type of formless pore, every size of that fearfully red zit, and every little crepey line waiting to appear from under.
Which is why I was thrilled to see the line launch an oil-based serum that uses some significant peptides alongside those omega-rich oils we love so much. The Overnight Repair Serum ($60) is a mega-lightweight oil that drenches skin with a largely-organic-and-sci-fi-peptide glory for a noticeably plump, soft and radiant result. Skin that has been taken with fatigue will adore the thrush of Sunflower, Sesame Seed, Fractionated Coconut, Carrot Seed, and Argan oils, which are superbly blended with Rosa Moschata (Musk Rose) while enveloping heavy doses of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38. PT-38 is a superb anti-aging peptide that mimics the body's own mechanism to produce collagen & hyaluronic acid to plump from within. Brown Seaweed oil doubles down on this effect. It’s the ideal serum that embodies the best of both worlds – science & nature. For those of you not ready to make the leap to a totally oil-based serum, you’ll be relieved to know the formulation doesn’t contain any junk-tastic ingredients to fluff of the label. The serum finishes with an opulent blend of Jasmine, Rosewood, Clove & Rose Flower, Geranium, Lemon & Orange Peel, Bergamot, Basil, Lemongrass, Curry & Cinnamon Leaf, and Rosemary essences, which show quiet the cursory respect to nature’s harvested oils. To the huile newbie, the roster may seem more chemically based, but the brand has chosen to list out the scientific names of the above mentioned as opposed to the commonly known monikers. Fear not, as this oil does peddle with the objective certainty of essentials.
The rousing scent is largely the a luscious interplay between the prominent Jasmine and Rosewood kicking off the adventurous translucency of sweetness that follows. The result is very natural, very tender, and very wearable. It's a clean floral - raw & pure at the heart. When used overnight under a night cream or added to one, skin is on its way back to good health with the shot of intense moisture and frenzy of antioxidant energy. Because it’s so airy, you can even apply it under eyes as a dedicated serum to rejuvenate the eye contour. The unusual choice for packaging is a bit of a bother (it's a pipette of sorts), but nothing that should deter you from flipping the bottle over & giving it a good shakedown.
Because this critic here is highly averse to chemically filled products, she’d say to those who still fear the all-encompassing regenerative powers of an architecturally blended oil – the serum’s slice of subtle scientific aesthetic will help diffuse your 'break-out-with-zits' panic mode with its mild-mannered roster of some pretty fantastic ingredients.