“Fragrance has a very powerful effect on the emotions. It is has the power to transport, uplift, arouse, relax, invigorate, stimulate, seduce. Fragrance is thy medicine.”
And, yes this twofold philosophy goes for oils, too. It's this frenzied restlessness—a constant desire to travel out, to create more—that you feel and actually covet when shopping at Infiore. It’s also this playfulness of craftsmanship that led Julie to create three astonishingly robust Face Oil Concentré ($60) blends designed with organic and wildcrafted ingredients to attenuate the three common types of skin.
How I qualify to speak for all three? Aside from insisting it’s the 'overachiever' in me, in all seriousness, the Retin-A I use to keep the cystic break-outs at bay leave me with spotty dry patches, an oily t-zone, and well, let’s face it, dull, lifeless skin at times. Not always, but balancing the three acts of these nakedly high and low skin permutations can be exhausting and annoying at times. And, I’m not alone. In Fiore’s clientele also experienced the same bouts with erratic congestion and temporary inflammations, but quickly appreciated the incredibly potent effects of essentials from her densely infused treatments, which forgave testy skin.
“It all started with feedback from clients who were using the body balms, such as the Décolleté Balm and Chamomile Pedicurié, and noticing such great results all over. But, these same women started using these body balms on their face! Women just couldn't believe how well the balms were healing skin aggressions, but I still felt like the balms were a bit too viscous for daily use on the face. So, oils made logical sense.”
Decision by clientele, Julie created an oil to address each type. In Fiore’s Face Oil Concentré Calme is what I tried when the sneak peek of a deeply buried zit tried to burrow its ugly way through. The beastly red inflammation causes that irritating itch, which often leads to a full blown raucousness of acne if not left alone. The face oil brings a quiet calm to the dry bits with Grapeseed and Rosehip carriers helped out by deft doses of Vitamin E. Grapeseed’s excellent emollient finish treats the dryness, but also helps pave the way for essential oils to penetrate deeper, while Rosehip gets to work on ravages of the post-damaged skin from sun and fun. It also works wondrously on chemically treated skin. Skin felt baby-butt soft and was left itch-free when this serum was applied after a mild glycolic peel. Surely, microdermed skin or those stuck indoors with the quiet hiss of space heaters and radiators during the nippy months will feel the same.
A dramatic flourish Bulgarian Rose Oil warms up to the Ylang Ylang while the Cape Chamomile Flower essence lends a beautiful accent, almost like an a botanical embellishment, to the scent. This oil has a tremendous character and is irresistibly seductive to no end. An interesting sci-fi fact: Rose Oil has the highest frequency (320 Hertz) of all the essential oils, which means its fragrant molecules, on inhalation or application, are able to quickly penetrate and travel the infinitesimal pathways of the body, quickly energizing skin and bringing balance, harmony and beauty to the body. And, that Calme does just that. It treats redness, inflammation, and irritation, delivering instant calm to hypersensitive skin with but a few drops. If skin (particularly olive toned, such as mine) is left with trace blottings of angered acne, Rosehip will help with fading these superficial scars.
More often than not, Concentré Nourrit is a basic staple to revive dull, over treated skin. Prescriptive treatments do show cyclical results. Detailing differs from day to day; some days, skin shows a dewy translucence, and other days, it’s looks simply weary. Nourrit is crafted from the same carriers as Calme and even has a ribbons of Bulgarian Rose laced through the structure, but cold-pressed Bergamot Peel Oil brings an exhilarating and luminous quality to the serum. But, the multifaceted stylings end with mysterious notes of Jasmine Flower complementing the spicy richness of Frankincense and Myrrh. It’s strikingly different. The rosy sweetness nicely rounds out the refreshing and sophisticated composition, which the therapeutic essentials deliver instant and long lasting anti-aging benefits, while maintaining skin's youthful appearance with such a rich bounty of essentials. Normal skin won’t need much more.
I chose Neroli since it is the most astringent of the florals, and when combined with Rosehip Seed Oil it helps with fading scarring and spots – JulieAnd, then there’s the 9 to 5 skin type: combination or t-zone. Oily skins know the drill: the finicky slick underneath foundations and powders is going to streak out when it damn well pleases and try to upstage its dry alter ago. For this, oilier skins will want to apply a handful of drops of Face Oil Concentré Pur. Added to two bases is Evening Primrose, a carrier appreciated for its fundamental wealth of fatty acids, which in turn reduces blackheads and inflammations from wanna-be breakouts. The finely textured oil has also been rumoured to help reduce dark circles under eyes after regular use. A cold-pressed, slightly spicy Sweet Orange Peel Oil carefully aligns with the Tunisian Neroli Flower to form a clever yet chaotically creative scattering of citrus notes, which undeniably complement the elegant experience of the oil. The elixir will brighten the dullest of complexions and erase any signs of tiredness. Pur will banish them away with unwitting sparkle and uncompromising edge.
Unwitting. That's what InFiore has done. Julie has blended some aromatically stringent blends showing us how one skin could sometimes use more than one oil. I love and admire her for it. Uncompromising. Infiore and its relentless dominion of essentials continue to provoke the boundaries of blends and resonate with consumers. The sophistication is at heart inventive. As such, it’s Julie’s significant eye and intuitive sense for the stilled flux of oils that lends us to believe in her rare kind of alchemy.
ISUN distills to the truth of essential oils. The truth of how when a face treatment is devoid of chemical fillers, telltale signs of aging get nothing but the purest sense of antioxidants to treat upon impact. The Ultra Sapphire Face Oil ($92) is a strikingly sophisticated serum that is part medicinal and part restorative. It’s one of the most complex blends that I’ve seen thus far - full of sparkling, wildcrafted pop oils. Her eclectic herb mix starts off with Sunflower, Fractionated Coconut, and Calendula carriers cosseting a fabulous roster of essentials - Chamomile, Lavender, Licorice Root, Green Tea, Lemon Balm, Rosemary, Plantain, Milk Thistle, Comfrey Ivs, Comfrey Root, Gotu Kola, Gingko, Life Everlasting, Rhodiola, Echinacea, Shavegrass, Boswellia, Blue Violet, and Goji Berry. Of course, this is a shocker as most of the face oils discussed on this blog contain far less than half of these superbly curative ingredients. The herbs are extracted over a period of up to 30 days with a consistent temperature of around 100 degrees F, then strained, pressed and filtered to produce a bounty of intense phyto-antioxidants.
Balance is more than a metaphor for Bunnie. She continues her mixmastery by weaving in a cornucopia of notable carriers brimming with fatty acids - Kukui, Tamanu, Camelina, Rose Hip Seed, Borage, Acai, Seabuckthorn Berry, Carrot, Evening Primrose and Macadamia Oils. It’s this supercharged nexus of vitamin and mineral rich oils that goes straight to work on signs of aging – photodamage, age spots, and fine wrinkling. Healthy dollops of Vitamin C esters run freely through the layers of herbs and oils to stimulate skin metabolism and increase collagen synthesis. You can almost feel how meticulously hand-troweled this blend must have been, as it charges deeper into skin with intense weavings of Retinyl Palmitate, the precursor for Retinol. Not surprising, this ambitious blend was orchestrated to:
- Energize repair and regeneration of skin cell
- Stimulate the skin’s immune system
- Strengthen the skin’s natural moisture barrier
- Balance moisture retention
- Soothe and calm irritated skin
- Promote lighter, more even skin tone
As lovingly and tender the medium weighted oil is for sensitive and mature skins, there is a honeyed bitter scent that percolates through the textural layers. There’s a rough tang of Helichrysum, which overtly drowns out what would have been a succulent composition of Jasmine Sambac, Sandalwood, Blue Chamomile, Rose & Neroli absolutes. It’s a fleeting but pungently warm scent, which strangely compels. It does fade away with a deep blend, imparting a slightly antiquated feel of Ayurvedic notes with a twist. Definitely not for the faint-hearted but for those intrigued by a fussy and vague cardamom copycat.
And, yes, the energizing play of energy from a genuine sapphire adds to fantastic swirls of oils.
It’s a tried n’ true formulation – Apricot Kernel Oil cut through with the zest of an all natural Grapefruit essence. And, what a refreshingly crisp cut of citrus it is. There’s a tinge of suaveness to the singular aesthetic of this semi-fatty dry oil as the scented caress fizzles onto skin and absorbs straight away. Nature is marvelous here, as the cheery scent doesn’t smell anywhere near synthetic, but rather arrestingly much like a slice of fresh cut fruit. For being packaged in a slim spray bottle, it’s surprisingly a big, fat, juicy oil. The Grapefruit’s shimmering depth emphasizes the purity of the essence and stay true to the finesse of a well-chosen citrus with the slightest hint of grassiness. The carrier, the lovingly pressed Apricot Kernel Oil, is excellent for skin protection, since it is both emollient and nourishing. The fatty acid rich oil helps revitalize skin, relieves itchiness caused by eczema, and is most suitable for sensitive, dry and aging skin. Soft enough that babies will giggle with spritzes of the sparkling citrus.
Don’t think of this as a rustic summertime drench of moisture. It’s an affordably charming daily treat that will add a sprightly scent to touchable skin.
Well, you can. The besties behind Truth Art Beauty are bringing pre-blended and bespoke body and face oils to the reasonably oil aware fans wanting to treat skin organically with active botanicals while fervidly rejecting cheap fillers and synthetics.
At Truth Art Beauty, you have a choice to shop from carefully churned out oil blends, which are inspired by seasonal picks of essences coddled by select carriers. Choose from as assortment of products for skin or body. This fall, the Face Nourish ($54) is created from organic Argan based face oil and boasts happy helpings of organic Pomegranate Seed and Rosehip Seed Oils weaved together with an alluring complexity. The semi-medium bodied oil will appeal to those seeking a weightier treatment to address the classic signs of aging. A study from the University of Michigan Medical School, published in the February 2006 Journal of Ethnopharmacology, shows that Pomegranate Seed Oil stimulates keratinocyte proliferation, promoting regeneration of the epidermis. This study joins a growing body of research supporting the benefits of Pomegranate Seed Oil as a skin treatment. The oil blends down very well, leaving no shine, but rather imparting the floral sweetness of organic Rose Geranium. And, nothing else. It’s not a moody, dark rose, but rather one with an ambrosial feel about it, which takes the guesswork out of wondering if you’ll order an ‘old lady’ type of rose scented oil. It’s not. It’s a lush, nearly coquettish scent.
And, to complement the body, the inviting harvest blend in the Body Salve ($28) is an equally tender floral body oil using the same Rose Geranium essence nestled neatly with an intoxicating mixture of Ylang Ylang and Lavender. The result is a dew-drenched elixir with an earthy radiance billowing forth from the Jojoba and Grapeseed duo carriers. Both disappear into skin instantly and have the ability to lock in the moisture and repair the tissues. The floral medley of this bouquet of essentials highlights the fruity notes with a simmering sensual core beneath. Again, it’s a medium bodied oil that brings a standout inviting glow to skin. Both have the requisite expiration dates to ensure the botanicals are used well within their potency.
And, what is Rose doesn’t intrigue? That’s the beauty of Truth Art Beauty. If seasonal collections don't captivate the attention, make your own blend. And, you can skip out on learning 'huile speak' as the site makes it easy and lists out the benefits of every ingredient. Founders, Emily and Caron, say,
“We hope that the customization process empowers you to learn about the ingredients that are going into your product - and into your body. We know that a lot of people out there are frustrated by the lack of transparency in the beauty industry. We've experienced first hand the frustration of buying an 'all - natural product' only to look on the back of the label and discover numerous synthetic ingredients.”
For the same price, you can choose your carrier, add in boosting botanicals for specially targeted concerns, and in the case of the Body Salve, choose your essential oil aromatic fix. Sure, the essential oil selections are somewhat limited, but, I don’t doubt this variety will grow as the demand for one-of-a-kind custom blends and expressions of your true aromatic self do. It's a fun blend of moxie and marketing to the right kind of connoisseurs who have recognized that women need a wardrobe of fragrance oils. Really, the concept is coolly retro without being kitsch. And, while there are some diehard fans, like your truly, ready to hop a flight to SF and have some famed perfumer, like Mandy Aftel or Julie Elliott, create a signature scented oil, this would surely save on the airfare and spare me from a psychotherapy-style sniff session intended to pluck out your inner aromatherapeutic desires.
Come to think it, maybe I’ll hold off on exposing my Freudian floral profiling just yet and fast track to a handpicked blend, which will uncover pretty much the same tenets I dearly espouse – truth art beauty. I mean it's still a matter of the journey, originality, and craft even when created online and by me...in a snap.
Tamya Anointing Body Oil ($25) is not another tropically scented treatment that has the huile crowd clamoring for a skin sweetening ablution, but rather is the quid pro quo it represents. It’s that empathetic first whiff of a plummy Frangipani that helps you envision those excruciating but artistically restless late nights Ayala must have spent with her oversniffed nose buds while breaking her back to get the blend just right. Ayala was no doubt perfectly spot on. If an oil could figuratively bring a dose of sun-drenched moisture, Tamya could do it. Skin will get serious skin drenching moisture from Fractionated Coconut, Shea Oils, which create a fizzy layer of fatty acids. It’s so lightly viscous, it qualifies as an artistically independent dry oil.
"I formulated it as an all-natural "dry oil" type of scent with no silicone. It’s perfect for humid days, when you don't need a lot of moisture extra on your skin but want to feel refreshed."
Shea is a naturally occurring, ingenious emollient, full of Vitamins A, E and F, which promote cellular rejuvenation. Ayala’s is hypoallergenic and non-irritating, which protects your skin by forming a barrier to prevent moisture from escaping. Shea also acts a nurturing ingredient for hair care. Adding a few drops to your daily conditioner or tainting directly to hair will improve gloss and moisture retention colour-dried locks without making scalp feel greasy.
The dreamily fragrant tropical scent veers a tad on the nostalgic side - organic, holistic, and glorious. The oil opens with a genuinely creamy Frangipani burst, which is the first body oil I have seen of this kind. It has an insistent semi-Gardenia undercurrent which reaches its full bounty, but not before acclimating itself to soft kisses of Ylang Ylang and a transparent twist of Yuzu (Japanese Citron). It’s not a crisp slant of citrus, but mildly muted for effect. Ayala skillfully blends in a snugly dense sheer vegetal musk complemented with shadowy peeks of Jasmine Sambac, both imparting an unearthly, subtle animalic feel to the oil. Tamya is an intricately handcrafted composite of oils, one that plays clever games with the conventions of blending carriers with essentials. But, it's this relentless dignity of vision from Ayala and a few others that presages a slew of blissfully enchanting skin essentials that are slick, understated, and serve as an unexpected blessing to beauty and art. And, that's the power of oils.
*And, I know they’ll refuse, but I still maintain body oils are a part – even if for a smidgen – of that world.
That’s why the organic boom sees no end to the pop up growth of brands from home-based Etsy kitchens to BFF branded firms, both founded to create the purest of products to address what seems to be skins irritable due to increased environmental aggressors inside and out. But, 100% Pure Cosmetics stands apart from the clutter of eco-chic brands. Their forte? Refusing to incorporate any synthetic chemicals, chemical preservatives, artificial fragrances, artificial colors, harsh detergents, gums, thickeners, emulsifier or any other unhealthy toxins. What’s left? Carrier & essential oils saturated with fruit & vegetable pigments. And, these are left unrefined to create 100% biodegradable beauty.
Refining ingredients cause them to lose all nutrients and minerals - 100% PureWith the cold weather and harsher winds upon us, there isn’t a gal who couldn’t use a balm. Or glaze. Or gloss. Or anything really created from oils to let lips drink up concentrated fatty juices. From 100% Pure are two such products - 100% Pure Fruit Pigmented Lip Butter ($13) & Glaze ($15), both of which are rich, indulgent, creamy formulas which instantly melt onto the lips. The Lip Butters (Watermelon shown) is a lightly sheer balm, which deposits a soft hint of colour. The non-tacky formula is an effervescent mélange of Avocado, Shea, Cocoa Butters woven with Organic Rosehip Oil and coloured with a blend of natural fruit dyes. Watermelon is an softly mauve toned balm, ideal for universal skin tones. Not too pink, not too brown. It spreads easy, but use a lip brush to conserve on product. I rather like the cutesy retro tin packaging, too. The hearty heap of scented balm will surely last you from winter to summer.
In contrast, the brand also creates some sexy Lip Glazes in a stick, which brings more of a semi-dense opacity with the same creamy base. Same base oils as above but with Mango Butter added to bring a greater emolliency thanks to its high content of stearic acid. Sultry is a gorgeous, honeyed nude that pairs well with just about any lip liner. The modish, sleek tubing (from recyclable materials) and sweet smelling fruity scent really add to the fun and cheery vibe. No lacquered shine with this one, but rather a velveteen finish.
Be warned as these can be feverishly addicting and turn your make up bag into a collection of crayola-like drawer of pots and sticks. You won’t just stop at one.
The skin nurturing core of moisture is comprised from Fractionated Coconut and Jojoba oils, both chosen for their ease of seeping into skin without the weight feel left behind. No grease nor shine here. The Vitamin E heavy Fractionated Coconut Oil is highly preferred carrier oil within aromatherapy designs as it helps to carry therapeutic oils under the skin. And, what a trio of pulsating essentials – Pear, Fir, and Coffee. So charming, oh, so very charming in this chic and famously attractive sleek bottle.
Your bewildered enthusiasm never collapses with a scattershot of fresh, dusky Pear playing off the piney tendrils of Fir while the muted entanglement of Coffee dances in and out of the slather. If Coffee isn’t your thing, fear not, as here it brings a well-blended but raw warmth to the heart of the oil rather than any obnoxiously overt Arabic slant. The abstract green feel and earthiness are beautifully balanced with a slight hint of some unwieldy sex appeal, Though none of the unabashed essences lead the oil's exuberance on its own wayward accord. The lightweight viscosity blends with endless waves into skin immediately while the unctuous silkiness softens fine lines and spotty dry patches. The body oil delights in being round, supple, and simply delicious. If a sexual punch can be restrained in a bottle, it's here.
Trust in Mandy – a mistress of postmodernist aromatherapy deftly steering nature’s oils into consummately wearable skin staples.
For the record, there is no such thing as an amber essential oil. Essential oils are pure plant oils, which are distilled or otherwise extracted from a single plant species. Fragrant amber itself is a combination of several different botanical sources (or animal sources in the case of Ambergris). Charna defies convention and hand crafts a soulful, organically well-orchestrated oil for the body and hair. She justifiably chooses Safflower oil for her main carrier since its Omega-6 fatty acids are the preferred moisturizing elements for people who suffer from dry, flaky, or itchy skin. These essential fatty acids keep cell walls supple, allowing water to better penetrate the epidermis. But, the resinous oil goes beyond its carriers to address dry skin.
“Research shows how resins, such as Benzoin, have been used for centuries, especially by indigenous people to help promote healing of wounded skin and seal in moisture.”
The first couple of mouth-watering minutes are all about the coquettish streaks of Styrax Benzoin, which lends a delicious softness of powdery Vanillic accords to the oil. It’s a bracingly high-spirited scent that refrains from turning gourmand and dreadfully sticky sweet. The rest of the progression is from a mysterious set of proprietary notes. Sniff deep and I swear I’m sensing some Cinnamon or even Sandalwood nestled at its jazzy heart. But, a slivery twist comes after the first slather – Neem Oil?
Neem oil is such a powerhouse! It's too bad that the U.S. doesn't seem to recognize its value the way India does – Charna
The high concept? Neem’s intentional nutty pungency isn’t to add an unpredictable bent under the folds of Benzoin, but its mellow diffusion is actually included because the essential oil is densely saturated with fatty acids (mostly oleic, stearic and palmitic) and Vitamin E. The medium viscosity leaves a barely there shine and takes but a minute to absorb. But after that, you won’t see any crepiness on hands or scaly skin bits on recently shaved legs. The oil has got a sculptural charm about its primness. It’s crisp, brilliant, and effortlessly luxe without the exorbitant price tag expected from a hand blend.
Whatever your need for to make it through the hustle n’ bustle of yet another neurotic holiday season, consider a spunky blend from Essence of Vali to help soothe away the mental & physical aches of overeating, overshopping, and overworrying. Both the Detox and Relief Massage & Bath Oils ($17 for each) are quiet custom blends of 100% Golden Jojoba Oil but exerting two different jumping points of aromatic relaxation - both equally fit for the decidedly rushed and frazzled.
Detox is a sassy vignette of Grapefruit and Lemon Peel synergistically working to stimulate the senses to awaken alive with the zest of citrus. It’s a sweetened one here, never becoming completely warm or sweet. But, it does have some subtle underpinnings of a lush green feel from the Cypress Leaves, which meet quietly with Juniper Berries to give a fuller heart at the core. Both lend a richness to the body oil that is amplified when layered again with a second slather of the lightly viscous oil. Lemon Peel is appreciated as a popular antiseptic, antibiotic and astringent, and will help to cleanse the body, ridding it of excess fluids and its resulting weighted energy, leaving you feeling lighter than air.
Relief is our second most popular blend as so many people use it for aches and pains - Valerie
And, then you have Relief. While you’ll want to detox your inner self, Relief goes straight away to work on alleviating tension built up in the shoulders, necks, backs, knees, and any other knotted nooks that need to be unwound. Pain, inflammation and enlarged varicose veins from overstress may be relieved with essential oils such as Cypress, Juniper Berry, Lavender and even Myrrh. In this oil, a deliciously minty scent overshadows the vivid swirls of Lavender and bits of woody Birch. Really, if you love Peppermint, this is your oil. Peppermint is a cross between watermint and spearmint and is native to Europe. Historically, the herb has been known for its medicinal uses. Hence it is often termed as the world’s oldest medicine. It's an essential oil brimming with minerals (i.e. manganese, iron, magnesium, calcium, folate, potassium, and copper) omega-3 fatty acids and Vitamins A & C, all of which reduce anxiety inside and out. Birch is lurking from within, but not enough to qualify it's blend as leathery.
Both oils use 100% plant oils and pesticide free carriers. The darkly blue bottles are nice companions to travel with, as the plastic doesn’t weigh down your vanity kit. What Essence of Vali does is give you an honest engagement of echo oils with an urban feel. Yes, their scents ring through the usual banalities of plain 'ole Lavender. They are clean cut in feel, unisex in scent, and even wearable together with with their diffusive scents. Which to choose for the battering of holiday fervor? Both retain a refined charm and both will deliver some cool, aromatic cheer to sapped out skin. Let's say, it’s ladies choice...
She’s somewhere deep in her studio ensconced within her creative zone working on extensions on this already cult beauty fave. “A place where the intangible becomes tangible.” And, seeing that she’s more of a purist than minimalist, this balm really is for those coffee lovers, who cannot get enough of that rich and satisfying roasted flavor. Consider this an elegant slip of Coffee for your lips. It’s rooted in Fractionated Coconut, Golden Jojoba, and Castor Bean Oils. A heft of Candelilla Wax gives the balm a bit of texture to cling to lips, but mildly so. The balm is so creamy in texture, you’ll seriously try to lick it off with the robust coffee flavor from Coffee Bean Oil. And, not in the usual overbearing way that will make you crave a latte. No, this will be your calorie-free fix from the craving. It takes a bit of cunning to figure out how to create a coffee-scented balm, but Liz hits the spot with the delicately roasted warmth from the Coffee Bean Oil. It’s an oil superpacked with phytosterols that promote excellent moisture retention, quick penetration and good adherence. It is also exceptionally high in its composition of essential fatty acids, which help heal cracked lips. Red Café is all natural, totally devoid of additional scent or color. As a matter of fact, the camel toned balm is actually derived from African Red Palm Oil, which is reddish because of its high amounts of beta-carotene. It’s the organic remedy of choice from much of Africa because it also yields an enormous energy from Vitamin A, which helps skin regenerate.
This is one powerpacked balm with its grinding synergy of carriers and a harsh aromatic jolt of java for lips to drink up whenever the whim strikes.
Is creativity born or bred? Some may pause before taking in a florally laced Argan oil. Here the founder, Linda Thompson, tells us what intrigued her idea to amp up Argan with essentials, as most brands seem to stay true to Morocco’s countryside traditions of bottling Argan up without additional absolutes.
“As the former Editor in Chief of Interactive Infotainment at Cartier, my skin was left distressed from excessive travels between Paris & NYC despite expensive brand name crèmes as my companions. Speaking with Cartier's superb craftsmen piqued my curiosity as Cartier has an understanding and reverence for showing materials in their best light in using the best ingredients available, so they shine without competing. They also go to great lengths to perfecting a piece - something might look simple (like 5 essential oils), but creating the balance is an art. Similarly, we include nothing superfluous because it smells good or for label value. The oil has to do good first and foremost. It dawned on me that American men and women would welcome a simple, effective alternative to current mesmerizing selection of crèmes.”
The French do put a sleek modernism into skin care. These elements with Linda’s fantastic interpretation of absolutes yield a very good contemporary oil. Still rustically lush, the elixir starts off with a 100% USDA certified Argan Oil, which serves as the antioxidant carrier paired in equal concentrations with Rosehip Oil, an Omega rich moisturizer proven to smooth out uneven spottiness from sun damage. What gives this Argan incarnate a chiseled finish to its minerality are rapturous glazes of Bergamot, Frankincense, and Neroli. Each brings its own gift from nature: Bergamot helps reduce excessive oil production; Frankincense works in concert with Rosehip to fade out signs of sun damage; Neroli is a potent skin rejuvenator.
Every skin problem has its healing match in a 'synergy' - LindaThe striking effect of these contrasting essences makes for a beautifully balanced and clean oil for use with your existing skin care creams. Extremely medium bodied in weight (just 4-5 drops will leave a near-masque intensity of moisture), the face oil isn’t obtrusive in scent. The Bergamot softens quietly behind the delicate warmth of Frankincense. But, it’s Neroli that shines through both, imparting a spiked sweetness to the oil, which is immediately apparent when you apply it. I rather like the way it seeps into the dry skin under eyes and plumps up the crepiness straight away. Concealer never cakes with this oil underneath.
Olio Biologique takes Argan’s merits to an artfully composed level showcasing its multifaceted strengths as an aromatically complex serum for the face. Huile Moderne is a robust, silky hydrator that says “touch me” like no other.
“I was actually asked to make a scented Argan Oil hair tonic for a friend's hair salon. I didn't know much about Argan at the time, so I spent a few months researching its origins & use before I decided on a formula. I tried a lot of scent combinations before I decided on Cedarwood and Rose. However, it didn't do well at my friend's salon at all! Cedarwood and Rose isn't an obvious pairing, but I was trying to make something that was somewhat unisex with the combination of the wood and floral notes, that could be worn well by men and women.”
No one bought it? She laughed it off, “I think it’s funny.” I didn’t.
Can someone explain to me how a hair salon failed to market the merits of a hair oil, an Argan Oil no less? While Portland isn’t exactly the hub of cutting edge hair stylings, how could a salon not dig in, hear the critics, and hop onto the Argan collective trend? Lucky for us, as the Olo Fragrance Argan Hair Tonic ($34) turned out to be one of Heather’s bestsellers. And rightfully so.
While the unfailingly artful angularity of the ferociously stunning bottle is reserved for her fragrance oils, I want it for this hair oil. The usually Carotene and Phenol rich Argan Oil boasts a clean cut blend of infused Cedar and Rose essentials, which rounds off to a spectacular sensory puzzle. Both absolutes are so perfectly balanced, as the Rose nicely polishes off the Cedar’s woodsy edges for a scent that really ought to be bottled beyond the hair. The comforting blend brings a nearly tangible scent of energy and excitement - it's soft, subtle, and unconventionally feminine with just a smidgen of sweetness. The tonic is extremely light-bodied and washes out with one rinsing as the Vitamins A, C, E, & F and the Omega 9 fatty acid go straight to work on gently detangling and reconstructing devitalized hair. Argan is appreciated for its ability to penetrate the hair shaft, giving the locks with an instant shine. An interesting fact: you can add Argan Oil to your hair colour to protect and nourish your locks from the excessive damage that hair colouring can cause. This will also lock in the colour and help it last longer. But, you'll want more. What you’ll want is to have this created into a warmly resinous body oil to cozy up to skin. And, so I'll try it for the skin, too.
Yes, I'm not kidding. The meditative beauty of this oil so matches the slick of the handblown bottle's vertiginous curves that I can think of no better way to decant this sexy tonic onto skin. Now, how to score that bottle? Your word, Heather...
I confess to being a sucker for face oils, not only because I want to bypass any chemical fillers in favour of pure, organic oils to treat my fine lining, but also, because of the myriad of scented ones available to curb my every whim. And, trust me, there are quite a few. Among these, Mandy’s Wild Orange Face Elixir with Cedarwood and Patchouli ($40) is a delightful and delicious skin sparkler complete with her hallmark complexity of depth & structure.
I have been making face elixirs for over 15 years, but I never stop wanting to improve the elixirs by researching new oils - MandyRice Bran, Grapeseed, and Rose Hip Oils form the functionally sound moisturizing core. While Rice Bran contains 3 types of Vitamin E essential for your skin, Rose Hip is the skin savior here. Mature, weathered, or simply anal retentive skins should know that a report published in the “Anti-Aging Research Brief,” lists Rose Hip as effective treatment for skin burns, scars and stretch marks due to its high concentrations of linolenic fatty acids, including omegas 3, 6 and 9. These help renew skin at the cellular level, particularly when damaged by the sun or by a chemical peel. If you’ve been following my Twitter rants & raves, the back story is I’ve been testing a glycolic peel (enhanced with Kojic Acid) over 6 weeks to fade away some deeply buried age spots followed by a pure Argan Oil. But, it's Rose Hip Oil is what I should have been applying after the topical sizzling of skin, as the oil penetrates deeper post-treatment. Mandy's elixir is further complemented by Seabuckthorn Berry’s antioxidants and Squalene, which boosts the skin's ability to naturally hydrate, oxygenate and protect itself.
The wonderfully imaginative blend – which it wavers between juiciness and tenaciousness - is further supplemented by a spectacular aromatic accord of Wild Sweet Orange and some seriously come hither hints of Cedarwood. A surprising twist of a matured Aged Patchouli culminates the oil into a sweet, near spicy finish, though fleetingly so. The result is neither flashy nor citrusy. It’s the picture of organic finesse, magically transforming the texture of skin into a velvety foundation for makeup the morning after. And, let's not forget the promise of an alluringly aromatic lull that will follow an often forgotten, but much needed pulse point massage at night.
It’s a decidedly heady but wearable unisex scent without any overt womanliness to scare the notion that he might turn into some gossip-addled metrosexual. Enthusiastic groomers will want to add a few drops of this oil after shaving to smooth out razor bumps. Shaving gel, sure, it's a basic. But an oil? NY derm Dr. Robyn Gmyrek says why not?
"Increased viscosity reduces trauma and can help decrease the razor's drag."
As with her body oils, special attention has been given to this sprightly and ingenious elixir. Fifteen years after debuting her first face oil, Mandy still applies her impassioned impressionistic approach to create a poetically misty bottle of moisture, which will surely delight the endless moods of dehydrated to dry skin types alike. How she manages to always do something far more precious in the midst of something always raw is beyond me.
Not. No, skin needs a specially formulated oil to target this pesky breakdown of collagen leading to whiskering. Stretch marks often appear on the breast and abdomen during pregnancy. The reason is partly hormonal. During pregnancy, hormones have the job of softening the collagen ligaments of the pelvis, so that the tissues can stretch easily during childbirth. Unfortunately, the skin collagen softens as well, allowing stretch marks to form easily. And, during life? Ah, well, we all are prone to stretches from excesses of our vices - wine, cheese, chocolate, etc. Noodle & Boo Elasticity Oil ($34) for preventing pregnancy and real time stretch marks is a fab choice.
The paraben, sulfate, dye, and even essential oil free formulation is composed around popular carriers - Sunflower Seed, White Grape Seed, Borage, Safflower, Jojoba, and Olive Fruit Oils with the requisite dollop of Vitamin E to preserve. Strokes of honey and Calendula extracts are woven into the heart of the oil to calm the itchiness. The scent is more of a cozy coconut executed with a breezy bravado. It’s quite a thinly bodied oil, which has a brisk slick feel. Think of it as a stretch mark eraser capturing the essence of bliss and simplicity in a bottle. It seeps into skin faster than you could layer over a second slathering. What’s nice is the formulation ensures ultra-sensitive skins, including that of baby, won't fall prey to any irritations from emphatic essential oils. Moms-in-the-know give this discerning point a great punch of importance as every formula from the line is hypoallergenic and clinically-tested to minimize the risk of allergic reactions, particularly from nature's oils. Christine Burger, founder of this luxury line of baby & Mommy skin care products, also insists on dermatologist testing to verify optimality for skin sensitivities and sourcing natural and organic ingredients wherever possible. While this isn't surprising on its own, it holds more merit knowing she founded the brand due to her being a mother of two children born with extremely sensitive skin prone to severe eczema and being unable to seek out products to treat their temperamental skin.
The excruciatingly cute end to her search? Founding a lovable company is endearingly named after Christine’s two young children, Andrew and Matthew, also known as Noodle and Boo.
At first glance, I couldn’t believe I’ve discovered an oriental body oil, as this type of scent is more often seen in perfume oils than body ones. But, here I cradled gently this bottle of dizzying beauty hand blended by the bespoke natural perfumer Ayala Moriel. Ayala’s rendition (she's Mediterranean, herself) is inspired by the synchronicity of ancient customs linking the past to the present from the Middle East, where oils are used for both religious and seductive rituals alike. The body oil is a absorbing and impressive agglomeration of refined, Fractionated Coconut, Jojoba, Avocado, Tea Seed, and Squalene (olive derived) Oils, which form a lightly viscous veil of moisture. The blend is accented with Vitamin E to lengthen the shelf-life as well. Tea Seed Oil has been used in South China for centuries, which brings mounds of antioxidants and Vitamins A, B, and E to replenish dry skin, which makes this ideal for nails and cuticles, too. Because Squalane Oil is so fine, it permeates deeply into the skin, without leaving an oily film and it does so quite fast. This incredulously smooth, deep penetrating oil also helps with the acceleration of new cell growth.
But, Ayala’s heavenly oil is more than just a treatment for the parched. The beguiling scent nears the intensity of a perfume oil without being obtrusive. It’s so rich and mystical, and yet, it’s an elegy to the every day skin accessory.
"The oil stays on the skin - 24 hours later, when I bathe again, the warm water releases the scent, yet again from my pores - AyalaThe synergistic Frankincense and Myrrh bring that characteristically complementary, balsamic note to a fantastical Rose opening, imbued fully with romanticism. While the unconventional sedative Spikenard trusts a hyperbolic nose to spot, just know it’s a quiet murmur adding to the bewitching composition. Most people think of Spikenard (often mentioned in Biblical references to extravagant adoration of & intimacy of a bride to her groom) as a cloying, musky scent, Not here, as its crafty juxtaposition is truly representative of the enigma of firm femininity. It nicely enriches the base of Labadnum and the resulting enchanting interplay of essentials. Saffron adds a highly desirous bent to the oil, trailing the way to a ceremonial and soothing finish.
It’s a noble yet curative blend with a sense of real luxury – ornamental, inexplicable and wildly sophisticated. Ayala has a true, talented eye for essential oils, one who is unafraid to mix the practical and exquisite. You’re going to love it.
It’s because, Primavera insists upon delicate extractions from 100% organic plants and bottles up the herbaceous blend from their painstakingly cultivated projects from the most pristine, optimal farms. And, they’ve been doing this for over 20 years, and thus put real money into over 200 hand grown essences from farmers who care. As such, the Relaxing Vanilla Lavender Body Oil provides enlightenment of its own. First off, the name should be changed. The Natrue 95% certified organic blend of Sweet Almond, Canola, Macadamia, and Evening Primrose Oils boasts a potent charm of seemingly fresh plucked Lavandula Angustifolia upon its opening. Light, lively, and sweet, Lavender plays down the burgeoning thrush of a gourmand Vanilla and instead warms up to a comely scent begging to be ravished without regret. Insomniacs and weary travelers alike will inhale this sumptuous blend, transporting them farther away than any tub of Calgon could. There is a brilliant transitory moment when the sweetness of the Madagascar Vanilla tempers out the French Lavender on skin, leaving behind a notably rich and welcomed persistence in scent.
But, the fetching oil doesn't stop at scent. The medium viscosity blends into skin with waves of moisture from the carriers. Of note, the organic Canola Oil (high in Oleic Acid) extends the shelf life of the treatment, though this isn’t of concern, as the bottle lists an expiration date of a year to ensure the integrity of the oils. In contrast, the Evening Primrose (grown in China) helps skin restore elasticity and keep in moisture. A dollop of organic Aloe Vera Oil (high in Vitamins C, E, and Zinc) supports the resulting seal of moisture. It’s not an abstruse blend, but a tender one that perfectly captures the simplicity of European harvesting.
It will, I promise, calm frayed nerves at the end of your long work day and lead you to a welcomed slumber.
Some skins will get those pesky patches of dry skin from moisture-zapping cold temps, while others…those poor, poor others may end up with a mild case of eczema. And, we’re not talking about tight, itchy flaky skin on face, but also on the body (behind knees, armpits, and even ears), lips, and hands. While you should start with scrubbing away dead skin to restore glow, you'll quickly come to realize a cream just isn’t enough for barren skin. And, that’s why you should amp up to oils.
Not just any oils. Don’t you dare click n’ point on this blog just anywhere after scoring a Cyber Monday deal hoping to drench out the scaly skin. First off, let’s understand what eczema is – aka "dermatitis,” it has been used to describe any number of skin ailments where the skin becomes dry, itchy and inflamed, leading to those unsightly red splotches. And, they've got to be persistent for over a few weeks. The more you scratch, the more you irritate. Eczema may be exacerbated by classic allergans – namely hay fever and asthma. Though, that cheap-o wool sweater from some bargain bin could also be the culprit, as the dense fibers can scratch up sensitive skins. Skins afflicted with eczema cannot protect itself from increased rate of evaporation, and the loss of moisture leads to further dryness. In turn, the dry skin gets more irritated and itchy, leading to increased scratching that worsens the rash and may even lead splintered, bleeding skin.
“People with eczema do not produce as much natural oil in their skin, so it tends to become dry. This means it has to be kept moisturized or it will become overly dry and crack - Dr. Tony BewleyAre lotions better? According to the National Eczema Association, the more water there is in a lotion or cream, the more likely it is to worsen your hand eczema. So-called "cream" moisturizers usually contain more water than oil, and when the water evaporates they have a net drying effect on the skin. (They are called cream moisturizers because they are white in color.)
The very best moisturizer for hand eczema is a greasy one, best used under an inert layer of petroleum jelly. Because the essential fatty acids in popular beauty oils help provide a protective seal to combat dryness and calm the inflammation, here are the best oils to seek out to treat any temporary eczema break out:
- Carrot Seed Oil: With Vitamins B, C, D, E, the essential oil helps revitalize dead skin by reducing any scarring
- Coconut Oil: Largely comprised of Lauric acid, known for its antiviral and antibacterial properties, which contributes about 50% of the essential fatty acid content
- Emu Oil: it’s anti-inflammatory with effects comparable to ibuprofen and is extraordinarily high in sapogens, which are proven skin softeners
- Evening Primrose/Borage Oils: Used since the 1930s for eczema, both oils yield enormous amounts of Gamma-Linolenic Acid (Omega 6) to fight off inflammation
- Hemp Oil: One of those rare oils from nature that balances Omegas 3 & 6 and Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) to reduce transepidermal water loss, which you can take orally and apply topically.