Beware: ISUN will leave its mark on you. Not, just on your skin, but also on your soul & psyche. And, not through Bunnie Gulick’s basic body oil, but through her wildcrafted, purely organic herb mixtures unleashed through the lens of your karmically charged gemstones. The artist, in fact, has left several marks on self-fashioning huile aficionados. Once you’ve tried her Skin Restore, you can’t imagine using anything but purely infused oils created in small batches with completely chemical-free formulations. It’s ISUN’s signature high-conceptualism-meets-oil infusion technique that will drive an aversion for the norm – here restorative herbs & flowers are meticulously immersed within nutrient-rich oils for weeks on end resulting in deeply sensuous finishes.

And, then there are ISUN’s Gemstone Body Oils ($40), using the same, incidental intelligence with essential oil infusion, but with the added energy of crystals and minerals to connect and enliven one of your nine chakras, or energy centers. Infused oils are crafted by steeping (macerating) the whole herb (harvested at the peak of its potency) in a carrier oil. No fluff and toss job here, as the infusion takes place from 6-8 weeks at a minimum. Why crystals? Nature’s own rocks synergistically help boost the healing powers of both the oil and of the essential oil and replensish what life has sapped out of you. At first, you frown. Really, crystals and oils? Have I gone haywire over mismarketing? Not at all, as once you compare a truly infused oil with the mass produced ones, you palpate the difference in texture and scent right away. Therapeutic value aside, these scented oils are aromatic trophies on their own. Some have complex scents; others have structured coherence in depth. All of them are executed with a meditative motif around a center stone. Innovative without being gimmicky. Bunnie says:


For a brand that has flown under the radar for longer than it should have, ISUN brings us a serendipitous collective of Vitamin E, curative enriched body oils. Why haven’t we come across these before? Indeed, nothing is quite certain with oils, as much like fragrances, each one tends to flourish variably according to skin. So, where to begin with these arresting, densely layered Gemstone Body Oils? Blissed out readers will want to start off with these:

Amethyst
Fiercely loyal Lavender lovers will want this oil. So, will type A personalities, like yours truly. Aiming for your 7th Chakra to calm and purify the mind by removing the heaviness of the day’s doldrums, this Lavender is done so, so right. Between the superbly moisturizing Sunflower and Olive oils is a deepening composition of organic herbs. Infused with the fractionated Coconut Oil are Lavender Flowers, Sweet Basil, Red Clover, Hyssop, Malva Flowers and Goji Berry. The oil continues this sweet cascade of florals with saturations of Passion Flower, Geranium, Bergamot, and Rose oil. If the mystery of Rose and the elegance of Geranium can harmonize an essence, it’s Lavender. While the fruity notes part ways for the single lashings of Lavender and genuine Amethyst gemstone, they don’t remain hushed in silence, but quietly undeniably stand-offish in the backdrop. And, the tactile warmth from within? That’s the barely-there balsamic note of Franckincense oil. Simply sublime. There’s a spontaneous dimension to this herbal scent with an approach to Lavender I’ve never seen before. The infusion is deliberate with its intent to liberate your beautifully balanced, relaxative emotions even in the most hyperactive of users (ahem…me). And, impeccably it works.

Rose Quartz Energy
For your 8th Chakra (the etheric heart), the Rose Quartz crystal channels its uplifting energy through Rosehip, Sunflower, Coconut, and Meadowfoam carriers sheerly and happily. The wildcrafted infusion here begins with lushly erotic Pink Rose Buds and Petals and a tangy Lemon Balm are saturated within Grapeseed and Fractionated Coconut Oil, while Jasmine Grandiflorum, Chamomile, and Rosemary play second fiddle to the spiritually opulent top notes. But, the zest isn’t from the Lemon Balm alone. Lemon and Grapefruit essentials complement the wafts of Rosewood, Ylang Ylang, Frangipani and Rose absolutes. While I haven’t even attempted to waft through the rest of the collection, this would be my first choice. The candied sweetness is crisp and sparkling, glossy yet restrained. The base notes from the essential oils speak so softly to skin through an airy composition, I cannot help but sniff again...apply again...and repeat, again.

Garnet Energy
Of this triumvirate, Garnet’s moody stone moves deeper into a flair for the abstract with a dramatic vibrancy from Goji Berry, Rhubarb Root, Cardamom, Licorice Root, Gotu Kola with the furtive tang of Nettle are immersed within Sesame and Rosehip bases. While Sesame, Hemp Seed, Avocado, and Jojoba create a sculptural fix of fatty acid rich moisture, it’s the essentials that create the energy. The steeped creaminess of Sandalwood becomes apparent on the dry down while the layering fanciful absolutes of Amryis, Ginger Root, and Budhawood are obvious, but hard-to-tease out complements. But, it’s the Cardamom that brings out the insanely intoxicating overtone tempering the essences to perfection. All in all, the gorgeously aromatic oil shrewdly plays off these atypical essences to achieve an organic roundedness, one that faithfully parallels the energy of its namesake stone. If skin could be bejeweled with the lore of an illusionary oil, it’d be with this smashing blend and its masterful result.

Join me through a journey for the rest...one oil at a time.

For those of you, dear few, who are desirous of unabashed greenery in your day, Mistral Verbena Bath & Massage Oil ($14) is seemingly plucked from some obscure Provencal garden that bursts open with foresty herbal notes and promises to satiate the moss lover in you. And, while some you these traditionalists may argue it's slightly décalé way to bring about a cool floracy, Mistral’s Verbena does promisingly with a langorous lushness that you won't be able to write off as cliched.

Its traditional sprig facets are deeply ensconced within a sheer blend of organic Grapeseed, Sweet Almond, Olive Fruit, and Sunflower oils, while a woodsy axis of Marigold, Lavender and Rosemary extracts complete the linear composition with added lacings of Shea Butter. Enormously high amounts of flavonoids found in Marigold (aka Calendula) have welcomed antioxidant properties that protect against skin-damaging free radicals, all the while stimulating metabolism of skin cells to help with skin regeneration. Yes, the good stuff to treat creeping signs of aging.

A natural parfum brings a tender dimension through the layers of absolutes, but provocative it’s not. Simple comfort is Verbena brings to skin in the form of a light texture that doesn’t detract from the kick of mint to its character. A sharp, green freshness with a tinge of lime envelopes skin without much effort, though don’t hope for the scent to persist. It’s instantaneously subtle, woodsy, and well….green. A crowd-pleasing, clever oil with the sexy allure of some long forgotten retro scent ready to be rolled on freely.

For many, perfume oils might invoke mandatory muskiness and tacit vanilla; dense oils that breath heavy and cling with super long tenacity. Perfume oils are slower, but people don't congratulate their success in the same way as a fragrance. As is her norm, LA aromatherapist and perfumer, Persephenie Lea, shuns these rules and takes a different path, one that relishes the opportunity to create perfume oils that plumb the soul. Datura is one such ingeniously orchestrated oil.

The alchemy of this perfume oil transfixes you upon opening. Billowy spices rush forth but fleetingly before the temperamental Datura steals center stage as its flanked by the tiniest Lily accords and Jasmine, both writhing deep within. Once settled, the inimitable top notes simultaneously highlight the woodsy Sandalwood, which sinks into skin under its own pretentions. The oil, with its slick geometric facets, leaves you with a lingering, delicious finish as the composition lightens after its initial flourish expressing all of its absolutes to near perfection.

Datura is a stand out perfume oil that is restrained, stylish, and quite profoundly, well-edited and very much on par with the other sophisticated releases on the market. Bewarned, as the darkened roller bottle give you no notice when its near empty. Stroke on with  the cautious, olfactory risk of running out before you restock.

It’s easy to deride a balm. With hauteur and disdain, you roll your eyes up up over basic shea this or lanolin that. Big branded names do invariably lend a feeling of artificiality with their glossy packaging and unpronounceable names on the backside. Without promising any glorified fidelity to overhyped marketing claims, Clark’s Botanicals gives you a twist on the classical balm construction with Shea.  And, it works. The Ultra Rich Lip Tints ($19), in a variety of brushstroked colours, bring more than just Vitamin E. The tubes add splashes of essential & carrier oils to not only treat chappy lips, but also scent up your lips without a traditional, clichéd balmy fragrance. No, this is the real, petroleum-free stuff, baby.

Perfectly on trend (yes, we called it awhile back…oils are the new lotion), the balm starts off with Shea Butter at its core, but pleasantly surprises with a neatly crafted aesthetic of oils deftly rich in those much-needed essential fatty acids – Coconut, Castor, Sweet Almond, and Avocado oils with the occasional Beeswax and Carnauba Wax for added structure and staying power. Now, this is how you make a balm. What lies on this continuum of moisture is the fact that every oil brings EFAs and added antioxidants to treat fine lining before it happens. But, added to this supercharged roster is also whopping dollops of Marine Collagen Microspheres – tech speak for water soluble collagen, which keep moisture where it belongs, on your lips. Coconut oil, in particular, has high level of skin-penetrating antioxidants; these free-radical fighting compounds have been proven to help slow skin aging and reduce the wrinkling effects of sun damage.

Beyond this, Clark’s puts excellent essences into this juicy tube. Scented delicately with Jasmine & Vanilla extracts, the balm is a welcomed change from those spruced up, minted ones. Subtle layerings of Vanilla warms the abstract Jasmine here; creamy notes rounded out to a seductive end with Calendula extracts for a kick. Not even remotely gourmand, though you will want to slick on & lick off. Alexandra Rose (swatched above) is a serene pink for all skin tones, though do part ways with the classicism of matte with a sheer splash of red (Rachel Red) over unlined lips. The transparent glaze of semi-glossy, cherry red works nicely to make puckers look perfectly plumped.

And, that is what a noble balm should do. Let your lips embrace this brilliance.

Creo Care is a brand where organic ingredients meet at the racy intersection of science and technology. While most oils are hand blended by impassioned artists who have honed their serious craft of aromatherapy (and sometimes marketed more by flashy PR releases than honest storytelling), Creo Care focuses on harvesting the superantioxidant power of germinated seed extracts, which have higher antioxidant activity than those extracts from non-germinated seeds. Germinated seed extracts are much more water soluble, making it easier to penetrate skin. Its this use of germinated seed extracts in the proprietary Creoplex antioxidant blend that brings the highest level of polyphenolic activity (from potent, stable, plant derived antioxidants in the Nano Pro-Tec Hydrating Body Oil ($25).

Too techy for you? Then, let’s get to what you know and love best – the oils. Expertly weaved together within an aluminum bottle (to protect the oils) are cold-pressed, 100% vegan Apricot Kernel, Rose Hip Seed, Borage, Kukui Nut, and Argan oils with ribbons of germinated seed extracts from Sunflower and Grape. Of the lot, Borage is known to have the extraordinary concentrations of Gama-Linolenic Acid, the most essential skin lipid for cellular regeneration, while Grape Seed extracts are fabulous for drier skins, as they contain compounds that stabilize the collagen and elastin in your skin so that their chemical structure is not disrupted. To this, a completely natural fragrance is added to enliven the senses.

Our pick is the Vanilla Orange variation, which evokes a transparent effervescence on skin. Robust notes of Orange lend an interesting twist to a quiet Vanilla, which blurs the line between a purely citrus wash and lush green one. The result is a semi-sweet oil, bursting with a two-fold heady sweetness reaching for a some intangible harmonic balance. It's simple, succinct, and fun.

Architectural in precision, Creo Care brings a lightly viscous oil peppered with tang, but bares all audacity at its heart; a treatment solely credited to the cleverly constructed, technologically sound oils.

Rosie Jane’s rise to popularity sounds like a fairy tale. A cosmetic line that started out with a small cheeky gloss has turned into a cult brand, fastly charming some of Hollywood heavy hitters (Jennifers Aniston & Garner are among the countless fans) and driven the little company, that could, towards the some major press attention. Leila Lou - A Fragrance ($39) is one fabulous gem of a perfume oil with some serious pared down minimalism and a sense of something well-crafted.

Leila Lou underscores its emphasis on quality and exclusivity and proves to be a sensational affirmation of how a pocket-sized perfume oil can outrival those alcohol filled, mall cart varieties, which are so garish in spirit & style, they point to the amateur. The 100% essential oil dazzles with a flourishing Pear Blossom, which is giddy to no end. The light fruity-floral interpretation has a delectable feel to it, though it doesn’t take long for the well-conceived Tangerine to rush forth and meld the top note into something a bit more sexy. Neither fruity accord has to be at odds with each other, as both round out the oil with a near palpable silkiness. But, the highlight of the oil truly comes when it settles onto skin like a shimmering peridot and warms up with a grassy, almost pulsating Vanillic finish.

Ooh, la la, I like...

The end is both seductive and suspicious, as I can’t quite make out the cotton musk, but that’s the thing about perfume oils – without those artificial solvents, the results tend to smell intensely saturated and perhaps may skip over the delicate unfoldings of the intended musky warmth. Well, it did so on me. Imagine if you could, a sparkly opulence bottled. Why else to like Rose Jane? She shuns packaging for this petite beauty in favour of saving the planet from unnecessary greenhouse gassing and wasteful packaging. And, once you’ve run empty of your first three bottles, your fourth is her way of saying thanks for the loyalty if you send them back.

Who won’t be vulnerable to such a light fruity pleasure?

It’s true sometimes what they say about familiarity. Even the most rarely wildcrafted lavender can lose its appeal over time. More so in body oils as it seems to be the staple ingredient for soothing the soul. But, Farmaesthetics is here to break the stereotype that an oil can, in fact, have only three ingredients and still be a primer for minimalist skin care. The Midnight Honey Bath & Body Oil ($36) is solely created from certified organic Sweet Soy oil, Honey Absolute & Vitamin E, ingredients which hail from technologically oriented, sustainable, organic farms in the good ole US of A.

Soy oil is naturally full of fatty acids, though it’s a rarely seen oil used in huile treatments. With the added antioxidant action from Vitamin E, Soy Oil restores the skin's smoothness, softness and flexibility by replacing lost moisture and helping the skin retain moisture. It’s not a question of expense or daring blending here. But, the scent is exciting. Fret not, as you don’t get that syrupy sweet feel here. The honey is muted and restrained, but tumbles onto skin nicely. With its lightweight viscosity, you won’t have to worry about the scent lasting, though the luscious notes of Honey are rustic and charming. The oil gains a new dimension as it spreads simply because the Honey warms up to skin and leaving a dewy sugariness atop. It’s immaculate and deliberate with a decadent, companionable feel.

The oil is intriguing on all fronts, proving how the simplest of ingredients and intent really can dazzle your nervy senses.

The Brand
Aromatherapy Associates brings over 30 years of holistic practices with sustainable sourcing of its ingredients, with raw materials found from far, far remote places in the world. And, quite simply, their naturally scented products give unexpected injection of heady intoxicants transforming every day necessities into extraordinary luxuries.

The Product
Purifying Facial Scrub ($38) is a normalizing and antiseptic scrub using all natural jojoba beads, which is used instead of nut allergies, which can cause allergies. Because they are 100% completely spherical, they don’t scratch up skin like other scrubs, leaving skin raw & sensitive. These microscopic cuts can result in premature wrinkles and provide an entrance for bacteria into the skin's surface or irritation from strong skin care serums. Oilier skins will see a decrease in their T-zone slick thanks to essential oils - Geranium and Petitgrain – which work on regulating overactive sebum production.

Why We Love It
In addition to being oil-based, which is less harsh on skin than oil-free exfoliants, the treatment also uses Aloe Leaf Juice to soothe and Kaolin Clay to draw out any icky impurities stuck within your pores. Corn granules also work with the Jojoba beads to deliver deeper exfoliation, while Orange Flower Water brings the moisturizing base.

The Texture
You won’t see hard-as-nails in this formula, as its far more gentle than those drugstore variations. With a soft, creamy base, you can actually use the scrub on its own without feel like your scrubbing with sandpaper.

Hints
Yes, it’s gentle enough to use around the edges of eyes, for those of you prone to milia. Using your ring finger for a quick sweeping massage, both Corn granules and Jojoba Beads dissolve dead skin under eyes leaving a smoother feel with skin conditioning agents.

The Final Word
Elegantly diversified in its essential oils, you’ll quickly develop a deep appreciation for these finely milled ingredients and renewed skin.

I’m going to thank Weleda with a proud proclamation. Thank you for saying it like it is. Too often, brands suggest such miniscule amounts for use, leading to bottles of straying, decaying oils on our vanity tables. Au contraire, as an oil should be used liberally, unabashedly, without fear, without regret. And, Weleda echoes this sentiment on Weleda Rosemary Hair Oil ($15) packaging: “For a re-conditioning intensive treatment, massage a quarter size to one third of a bottle into hair…”

Yes, it’s finally been said! The little pitter patter of oil droplets will surely nourish the spot strands it was lucky enough to cling onto. But, for a truly nourishing hair treatment, further heightened by intense and exacting essential oils, you’ll need to use up at the very least 0.5 ounces of oil all over scalp and into most of your hair. More, if you’re hair is longer than your shoulders, like mine. And, I did just that with Weleda.

Here, the Peanut Oil is an excellent emollient for dry patches, but fuller in viscosity and body and yet still washing out with 1.5 rinses. And, that the oil does. [Note to nutty sensitivities – yes, this may cause a reaction.] While the lushness Rosemary Leaf oil is what treats eczema well, the hair oil weaves in Clover extracts and Burdock Root to calm the irritated scalp usually seen from hair products that dry out your locks. All in all, they hug hair with a tickling tightness. The treatment is topped with a quiet helping of Lavender to soothe skin. The seamless harmony is green, grassy and light. It almost sparkles with an appealing freshness, but doesn’t overpower the senses at first whiff. Within minutes, Rosemary begins to settle down with the lingering Lavender accords, bringing out a fleecy breath of character and crispness. The emerald bottle, with its small, homely details, is quite eye-catching, but soothing upon opening the seal-proof top. Just warm, pour, and relax for 30-45 minutes.

A tenacious blend of charming absolutes add an extra sense of effortlessness and stand out from the copycat elixirs found elsewhere.

From the exotic expanses of India hail the ancient science of energy & balance – Ayurveda. Intelligent Nutrients brings this 5000-year tradition to craft a deliciously sexy oil - Intelligent Nutrients Anti-Aging Total Body Elixir Seductive Make Love ($30) - which is incomparable to anything else in the marketplace. Seriously, the 95% organic oil deftly improves any paradise thus far. Enfolded deep with the Jojoba, Castor Seed, Safflower and Apricot Kernel carriers is a lot of venerable essential ones bringing a heartening warmth when applied. But, there’s no New Age fare here. Extraordinarily high in Omega-3 and Omega 6 fatty acids, there’s also Red Raspberry Seed oil, which a superb anti-oxidant as it contains 83% essential fatty acids and brings high levels of Vitamin E, both of which promote skin repair and conditioning.

There’s no New Age fare among the essences. Top notes of Nutmeg and Clove immediately transport the senses to a far off time. Uniformed and balanced, Vanilla adds a silky sweetness, which is touched off by currents of Blackberry. Despite a deluge of rare essences, the oil has a homely feel about it. There’s no overt earthy scent, as one might expect from blending commonplace absolutes from India. Intelligent Nutrients also adds tinctures of Black Cumin, Red Grape, and Pumpkin Seeds, which have been slowly cold-pressed to preserve the intricacies of their anti-aging properties. They are ripe. They are full. They are potent. With the bustling animalistic energy of the Cumin to complement the amplified Clove, the lightweight oil is breathtakingly lovely. The sharply spicy accords play happily on skin to lighten the mood at first, but vanquish on the finish. As always, Intelligent Nutrients brings us a vivid oil is devoid of parabens, petrochemicals, phthalates and even any artificial fragrance.

With a bright marriage between age-old essentials and new world technology, the overwhelming profusion of nutrients, which are intelligent, indeed, give you a heartfelt reason to Make Love. Get your groove on.

Elusive and somewhat an outsider to the world of perfume oils, Lisa Hoffman has shot straight to the top ofhuile world. Awards from Allure, WWD, and even the prestigious FiFi Awards (the Oscars of the fragrance world) have situated this brand of esoteric perfume oils as a serious contender to the artistic form of fine oil-making. Tunisian Neroli Variations($95) is an engaging collective of highly concentrated essential oils and aromatic elements designed to be worn alone or layered in a symphonic synergy.

For those new to perfume oils, expect to see concentrations of 15-30% essential oils, which are immersed within an oil base as opposed to alcohol base. This is in a sharp contrast to the department store EDT versions, which offers a measly 4-10%. Here, 4 different pulse point oils - morning, day, evening, and bedtime – evoke an unpredictable interpretation of Tunisian Neroli imbibed with tempting essences that evolve in depth.

“Fragrance should be applied to pulse points: wrists, crook of the arm and knee, base of the throat, and right behind the ear. Pulse points are where the blood runs closest to the skin, so it gives off more heat, which acts like a scent diffuser."

Your senses change, so why not your floral whims? Each vial shifts in composition depending upon the arc of Neroli:

• Morning: A piquant-floral Neroli is softened by hints of Gardenia but balanced by a mildly citrus-y Blood Orange. The offshoot is sweeter as the guarded Gardenia lovingly warms the Neroli.
• Daytime: The spicier, musked up Neroli is near giddy with a full-bodied bent thanks to Golden Amber, Ylang Ylang, and Orange Nectar blended well but to a lighter degree. A bit more raucous, yet delightfully so.
• Evening: Vanilla brings a subdued candied warmth to Neroli. If any of these had to be a body oil, this would be my choice. It’s a sculpted blend showing off the contrast between the notes, ending with a sultry finish.
• Bedtime: To help you slumber, a combination of woods and musk has a slightly jarring effect on the Neroli, pushing the blossoms into another dimension. Not quite dark, but quite more mysterious.

The perfume oils are largely created from popular bases – Sesame Seed, Jojoba, Macadamia Nut, and Rice Bran oil among others. Nestled within this core of carriers is also Acai Pulp Oil, which is rich in Vitamins B, C and E. And, while you won’t use this melange of Neroli to treat skin, it’s nice to know your pulse points will get fresh dollops of antioxidants, rather than patchy reactions from alcohol. Surprising crests of clean, poetic taunts of Neroli are felt when layered, as no two swathings yield  the same results. Ever. As such, the skittery perfume oils are starkly modest but never tentative in spirit And, because Lisa plys her craft of oils far too deep in obscurity, I say these under the radar luxuries, for once, need to get to the masses. And, soon.

*PS - Lisa Hoffman Beauty is pleased to announce they are donating 100% of Tunisian Neroli sales to the National Breast Cancer Coalition for the month of October.

Oils, moisturizers, treatments…call them what you will, but there’s no dispute one ingredient – Mineral Oil - will make most of you cringe with a visceral disgust and cosmetic fear. The ingredient has reached such epic proportions of hate making it seem as though it's the spawn of the devil: it’s carcinogenic, the oil causes premature aging, it’ll rob your skin of precious vitamins, the film prevents the absorption of collagen and other nutritious forms of anti-agers, and even the ever-popular, it causes acne. And, while most of the oils I covet are usually devoid of this supposedly hedonistic huile, I refuse to ban those that do contain Mineral Oil is its main carrier when science says otherwise.

We’ve all been there - seemingly trapped in a neverending barrage of curiosity inspired by mainstream marketers who have successfully misaligned what is nothing more than a bare bones oil. But, research has proven there is nothing schizo about it. The scientists behind TheBeautyBrains (among others who have published their findings in PubMed) argue consistently Mineral Oil is nothing more than a cosmeceutical, refined carrier oil. Mineral oil acts as an occlusive agent who prevents water from naturally leaving your body through your skin. Which is why you should't knock off Paul & Joe Body Treatment Oil ($50) for using it as a main moisturizing base.

While the axis of the oil is Mineral Oil, a host of vitamin-rich oils bring a bustling burst of energy to treat skin - Olive Fruit, Meadowfoam Seed, Orange, Avocado, Sweet Almond, Jojoba and Grapeseed oils are what will feed parched skin with fortified elements and fatty acids. Of the lot, Meadowfoam Seed oil is one of the most stable oils, and will actually extend the shelf life of less stable ingredients. When applied to the skin alongside Mineral oil, it, too, forms a formative moisture barrier and will assist the skin with preventing moisture loss, doubling down any effects from dry weather or rough shaving. Interesting to note is how Meadowfoam oil is also totally beneficial for our environment. The oil was first developed in the 1970’s, and introduced as an alternative to sperm whale oil in order to protect the species. The pressed seeds are fed to cattle and other livestock, and are a source of nutrients for these animals. While grown in the field, birds, insects, mice, and other critters, also eat the nutritious seeds. The Meadowfoam plants themselves are a renewable crop, and are usually grown as a rotation crop for grass seed farmers, which eliminates the need to burn the fields in between grass seed plantings, thus providing farmers with additional income.

Doing good for you skin while doing good for Mother Earth. While the body oil is a feathery weight feel with a light slip, the scent will convince you of moving beyond your mental block. A delicately sweet citrus is tantalizing without veering into any gourmand notes. The lasting radiance from the Orange Oil is tinged with a burst of candied shine. Not of the mawkish vanilla variety, but more of a single-noted, honeyed orange. Quite simply, it's a soft, floral, joyous scent much more like a nectar than a fragrance.

The oil is like hearty chuckle salaciously trumping those cheeky claims meant to inspire fear. The oil works...and it works well. If marketers had their way, I’d wonder how many Johnson & Johnson babies from the dawn of time should have ended up with wrinkly lines reaching for the ears, pimpled dottings in between flaps of loosened skin heading for the gobblity neck by their 30s? Please.

While the organo-happy world of huile artisans have brought together recognizable movers and shakers, it’s the subtleties of niche brands which bring a myriad of sensory-provoking treatments that merit attention. Poetry Intimate Ritual is one such brand.

Less is more is the mantra for the Vellum Verse (1 & 2) body oils. What Tammy Parker, the founder of Poetry Bath, does so well is curate simplicity in an oil but complexity in the oil’s ingeniously elegant openings. It’s the influence of her own poetic journeys – endlessly surprising writings created in synergy with aromatherapies to slow down the hurried pace of today’s life in her own vein of laid-back, irreverent touch. Yes, the body oils do upset your priorities of slathering in a mad dash and moisturizing in a frenetic attempt to rejuvenate skin and they do it well.

They blend easily and absorb upon application. While Tammy offers two scented variations, Jojoba oil is the choice carrier for both medium bodied oils.  It is bright and golden in colour and is regarded as the most favored in the carrier oil family because of its advanced molecular stability. It also makes a great scalp cleanser for the hair, and is equally wonderful for the skin because it has absorption properties that are similar to our skin's own sebum. And, that’s where the similarities end. For those who enjoy the sultry Sandalwood, Verse 1 transports the Australian variety with Jasmine through a tapestry of mildly citrus notes. While the Sandalwood is almost imperceptibly present, the gradual warmth of scent assures you of its exotic underpinnings. On the contrary, the second incarnation, Verse 2, crackles on edge with the essentially classical Grapefruit intriguingly blended with Mint and Balsamic Needle, which lends a far more vivid composition, refusing to fall flat. The initial whiff can be deceiving. Be assured the mint doesn’t demand your attention, but gracefully evolves in a rustled crispness grounded by the warmth of the needling. Hours later, the light, zesty character scent still tugs at you. Both compositions have intricately choreographed essentials, but deliver a caressive touch.

These are oils with a rhetorical flourish. Don’t ask, just use.

The Brand
Revolution Organics is one of the rare few brands that has been approved to carry the hallmark of organic approval reserved for products that are at least 95% certified organic and whose formulation has been approved by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) National Organic Program (NOP). Products that contain between 70-95% can carry a label of ‘made with certified organic ingredients’ but cannot carry the USDA seal on the packaging. The USDA logo also represents the highest level of organic certification, starting from the soil that the plants are grown in to how they are harvested and processed.

The Product
Freedom Glow Beauty Balm ($34) should be on the vanity table of every multitasking makeup maven. It’s always a challenge to find that perfect lightweight oil to blend into cream blushes and lipsticks to create a nutritious beauty treat. But, now you can skip the mixmastering and select from three universally flattering shades to add a flush of colour anywhere on eyes, cheeks, and lips with a goof-proof application and get your oil fix allowing your skin to permeate a natural warmth and dewiness.

Why We Love It
Its free-from-chemicals, synthetics, and artificial ingredients roster is an appealing collective of pure, hydrating oils to make skin supple with a fantastically natural finish and no heavy greasy feel. Asserting a moisturizing base are 100% organic Coconut, Olive, Castor Seed, Sunflower Seed, Safflower, Soybean and Jojoba oils while organic Beeswax adds a semi-firm structure to help blend the colours seamlessly. Coconut oil keeps the skin smooth to touch and helps retain the moisture content of the skin, as its enormously high fatty acid content prevents any moisture from seeping through the pores on skin. The rest of the roster melds extraordinary amounts of Vitamin E, which is essential for a healthy skin growth, repair of wear & tear in the skin, keeping skin smooth and protecting against dry patches and above all, warding off those first signs of aging with its inherent antioxidant action. The balm is completely scent-free for those finicky noses. And, portability is always a plus.

The Colours
100% natural pigments are used to give skin an ethereal wash of luminous colour instead of a caked up look. Warmer skin tones will covet Sunkissed: a subtle coral with a gentle hint of an ambery undertone and a modest glimmer seen when the light strikes just right. Deeper skin tones will definitely want to add Bronzed: a luscious, sheer brown shade lacking any obnoxious 80s glimmer to distract from your chiseled cheekbones but bringing a hint of plum to deepen. All skins will appreciate Blushed: a ravishing tender rose with cooler tones designed perfectly to perk up skin through upcoming wintery doldrums. Gradual layers will help achieve a deeper intensity, but don’t resist the urge and match create your smart & tricky shades to suit every mood.

Hints & Tips
Do swipe the balm over a nude eye shadow primer onto lids for that glossy look without the heavy feel of Vaseline and lasting power. While lips will enjoy the bare kissed colour with or without liner, it’s the cheeks that will immediately look refreshed when blended over foundation. Fingers work just as well as your foundation brush, but a concealer brush will control the colouring on lids.

The Final Word
With a glazed finish and astonishing staying power, it’s the chic new way to embrace a brave new style.

Anyone who purports to be fan of oils in any form should know better than to keep Seabuckthorn at bay. I know I have. Truly, it’s a tough scent to qualify – some say mango, others say melon. A few say sweet, while a handful say it’s so distinctive, why even bother trying to classify it. Agreed. The one thing it is appreciated for is the oil's surprising lack of greasy slip and high powered doses of Omega 3, 6, 7, 9, vitamins A, C, E, B1, B2, K, P, and a host of other 190 bioactive elements, all of which work synergistically to work on your skin pigmentation spotting or bouts of acenic skin. But, still that pungent scent has kept me away from considering any body oils until I met with Living Libations Best Skin Ever Seabuckthorn ($30).

Pure plant oils are softly weaved throughout the Jojoba & Tamanu oils, leaving a lovingly scented feeling with a mossy Vetiver, which parts slowly to reveal a cuddly Vanilla Bean. Sweet, the scent is not. No, it actually defies simplification, as the resulting scent more of a crisply scented, luxurious foliage ushering in autumn. It's warm without being heavy. It's fruity without arousing. It's gentle. It's naturalistic. And, it's still got a tang. The citrus is so far hidden that you’ll sniff twice to see if you actually missed out, which is a welcomed change from the banalities of an orange oil.

It does do a good job of calming those monstrously inflamed zits when they appear cyclically. The founders, Nadine Artemis and Ron Obadia say:


Jojoba oil, technically classified as a wax, is easily absorbed by the skin and is especially beneficial in treating such unwelcomed irritations. But, it's the Tamanu oil that brings out serious antimicrobial qualities, as proven in antibacterial and antifungal tests. It contains powerful bactericide and fungicide agents that defeat human and animal pathogens. Tamanu can be applied directly to skin, undiluted and can also help reduce scars left from a zit.

Did you know you can cleanse with this oil? Nadine offers the following tips:

1. Wet a small portion of a face cloth with water. Squeeze it out.
2. Apply one to two pumps of Best Skin Ever Sea Buckthorn to the dampened portion of the face cloth.
3. Gently massage the face, neck and back of the neck with the moistened cloth. Wash gently or vigorously, depending on if you would like an exfoliating effect.
4. Rinsing face is optional. But, do rinse cloth.
5. Moisturize.

The embargo against SeaBuckthorn is finally over.

If Origins had fathered the mainstream notion of organic beauty, Weleda would be the first lady. All of us gathered around in a semi-circle on one sunny afternoon. It was the day a bottle of Weleda’s Pomegranate Regenerating Body Oil ($28) had just arrived. What’s not to love about Weleda: ingredients are grown from their biodynamic gardens; they’ve supported fair trade for over 90 years before it was the status of new cool; they’ve earned the snappy approval from Natrue; is always devoid of unpronounceable synthetic compounds; and well, you know it...I know it, the products are just that respectably luxurious. And, this body oil doesn’t disappoint.

For starters, my musings with my fellow fragran-ista over the lack of a Sandalwood laced body huile have led to a search for a delicately balanced, vividly satiable one. Sandalwood should never be too overt to distract, but too immersed so you’re forced to sniff out its pleasantries. And, here is one such nicely crafted composition. Within a generous ribbons of Pomegranate See Oil are the most minute of Sandalwood lacings which yield an lovely karmic play between pure innocence and seductive carnality. And, no, it’s not my ethnocentricity (yes, I’m from the Motherland) that insists I prefer the cynosure of Sandalwood’s dark sensuousness over the norm. It’s just here, you’ll see how sweetly it seduces the Turkey-grown Pomegranate and takes a step back to insist upon an arrogant indifference. It knows. It feels. But, it doesn’t steal from the freewheeling Pomegranate, which seems to draw out a tangy zest under a glorious opening. The oil is decidedly unsweet without the pretense of its willowy elegance.

There’s spirit in this oil. It spreads easily & absorbs upon contact. Creating such a fluttery viscosity (meaning, it’s ok to use on hair), the preening Jojoba, Sesame, Sunflower, Wheat Germ, and Macadamia oils (all organic) make for one easily fun elixir. Do note what is deeply ensconced within this collective of staple carriers: Millet Seed Extract – a superb skin-conditioning agent which contains silicic acid to promotes the formation of collagen and elastin while helping to retain moisture. All in all, the extract succeeds in bringing a progressive evolution of fatty acids to moisture in one, deftly nourishing oil. In fact, Weleda's derms and their testing shows that the treatments accelerates natural skin renewal by 50% in just two weeks. What Weleda does well is stretch out the clash between fragility and strength, proving once again, when it comes to those existential pleasures from aromatherapy, quality counts.